The cutting edge of tree removal

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  • #76
True. I guess the forestry body is at least a deterrent which sometime can be enough
 
My forestry body seemed super secure. Pins, handle locks and padlocks. Although admiddetly theft was never an issue where it overnighted. Never bothered locking at all for the most part.

Fwiw forestry body is what is exclusively used for residential work in my little area. There is not a single dedicated non-forestry bucket in these parts. I think partly because climbing is inevitable and pretty easy on conifers. So often the forestry boom is just used as a chip truck. For me a mini-skid made the forestry boom very useful as the 'drag' to the chipper didn't seem nearly so far with the mechanical help. Also as a standalone, two guys in a forestry truck with a chipper can get a lot done with one insurance tag.
 
My forestry body pretty much just keeps my plywood out of the weather. I rarely haul wood in it and even more rarely chip into it. Might throw rakings in at the end of a long day occasionally as well.
 
The biggest drawback of the forestry body is always working over the hood of the truck. Everything about the body design is a compromise. Center mount boom to accommodate the dump box (which many don't even use). If you do chip into it, the chipper is nowhere near the drop zone and facing the wrong way. Less reach than a rear mount boom because you have to stretch past the hood to get to the tree, and then you have the truck in your landing zone.

My boom may move slower but my jobs go faster because of superior jobsite layout. Less wasted time handling material 2-3-4 times. No need for a mini to forward brush because it comes down right behind the chipper. No need for a skid steer to handle logs because I can crane them with the boom from the tree to the dump truck/trailer. I may have an extra driver to drive the chip truck but I don't need a driver to pull the skid steer around.

Just a different method to skin the same cat. My methods developed from a distinct lack of skilled ground crew, so I had to develop methods which didn't require coordinating with a man on the ground to get the tree down. My scariest experiences in 30+ years of tree work were all at the hands of an inattentive or unskilled rope man.
 
No illusions that the current truck is but a stepping stone -- a compromise to be sure in every way. But we'll use it, make $$$$$$, then upgrade. Terex rear mount (w-material handler) would probably be the ideal. As it is, the 75' with elevator should keep us from working directly over the cab (does have a good headache rack). Obvious the previous A crew didn't have that mind -- both mirrors are smashed.
 
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  • #84
Watch your radiator for saw-chip build-up, if run off the main engine.

I learned that the hard way when I had a forestry body, blowing off regularly wasn't enough.
 
Kubota pony motor.
Wing protectors sound like a good idea, but since we have metal fab capabilities in-house, I'd do them out of metal. But hopefully with our reach, we won't be working over the cab very often.
 
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  • #88
What did you do on top of that? I only ever blew my rad out now and then with air.

Truck was running hot, brought it to mechanic who had to remove and separate the radiator and clean it
 
I'd just go with, 'don't hit the mirrors'. In my mind to adequately protect the mirrors they are going to have to extend out past them, thus increasing the footprint of things to hit.
 
Truck was running hot, brought it to mechanic who had to remove and separate the radiator and clean it

On my f750 and previous f700 air always sufficed. My truck could go from running hot to running normal in about a 1/2hrs worth of blowing things out.
 
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  • #91
At the time btw, I didn't have a compressor, I kept it 'clean ' with a leaf blower.:|: Religiously, but yeah, nah
 
Yah you need good air for sure and lots of it. :thumbup:

A leaf blower is fine for dusting off a truck but I can't see it cleaning a rad effectively.
 
Chipper rads can be problematic, certain things can block my prescreen in minutes, birch seeds especially at certain times of years, dead western read cedar has dust/scales that are just too big pass through and too light to drop off naturally.

We have to throttle down and blow it off every 5 minutes.
 
They make an external cloth screen that blocks all that sawdust/debris. Just idle down, brush it off, then go back to chipping. A blouse - so to speak.
 
The airspade rocks for blowing out the radiator. Propping a window screen in front of the radiator really helps as well. You can pick it up and clean it off easily while chipping. Don't have to idle down.
 
My Morbark has brackets to hold a house screen in front of the radiator opening. Slides in from the top. It catches the bigger dust to keep the radiator from plugging up. You can brush it off, remove it and shake it off or just wait until the engine is shut off for the crap to fall off the screen.

You can buy a premade screen at the hardware store approximately the right size, then just weld some small pieces of angle on the housing around the radiator to hold the screen in place.
 

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Looks handy, mine is under a bonnet, which cuts the engine if you open it.
 

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You do on my chipper Kevin.

I bought a window/door screen from the hardware store placed in front of the chipper radiator and the stock screen, Every so often I just pick it up and knock it off away from the fan. It just leans up in front of the radiator, not attached in anyway. Some stuff still gets through around the sides but it makes a huge difference.
 
I bought a window/door screen from the hardware store placed in front of the chipper radiator and the stock screen, Every so often I just pick it up and knock it off away from the fan. It just leans up in front of the radiator, not attached in anyway. Some stuff still gets through around the sides but it makes a huge difference.

I've also had a window screen on my old 250XP for years, but the best option is to install a pusher fan, I've been told.
 
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