Stihl 500i
- Thread starter stig
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I don’t but it’s nice to have somewhere I can go get parts or service from. The only place that sells husky around me is a Home Depot and they don’t normally carry the pro ones. I’d be interested in getting one eventually. Maybe one of the older more desired models with some upgrades. Right now I’m trying to buy a house and I don’t need anymore saws right now. Next one I buy will be a ported 2511 from huskihll
Nutball
TreeHouser
I buy my parts from Internet.
Depends on how interested one is in doing work themselves. Also, it's helpful having a good dealer to go to in a pinch. Doesn't matter as much for me, but if I were running a business, I'd want a good relationship with a dealer I can go to in-person.
Nutball
TreeHouser
In that case, buy 2 Echos on sale for every 1 Stihl you would have bought, so you can have a spare saw ready to go.
We just own a good bit of stihls. I like some of the echo saws. What I believe happened was that the saw was ran too hard right after start up and caused a four corner seizure or the saw ran lean for some reason. Until Mopar opens it up we won’t know. Right before this one of my bosses 500’s went down with a cylinder issue. They wanted 1100 to replace the whole top end. I’m going to get it back from them this week and fix it myself
Treeaddict
Treehouser
Sorry you’re having such trouble with these relatively new saws. Some people on that site seem to not like the Sthil ultra premium oil in the gray bottles. That’s all I’ve used for the past year. I believe Brian has used it forever without issue.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
I've used Stihl HP Ultra for probably 20 years, maybe longer, and so has a friend that had large crews using ope. Zero issues.
I was using the orange bottle. I went to the grey bottle and both of the 500’s burned up since the switch but we had one go out before that but that was unrelated. Brand new 500i with a sticking decomp valve and wouldn’t stay running. Within the warranty time the top end went out so free warranty work. I’m not giving them another one to do. Especially for 1100. I’ll tear it down take pictures and either fix it myself or spend my bosses money to have someone else fix it and port it. But then again my guys are all very green to chainsaws and would probably blow it up again. Gonna be making a rule in what saws they can operate real soon
Treeaddict
Treehouser
Maybe tell ‘em , start it a minute or 2 before you need it.
I usually start the saw and then get on all my ppe. Then it’s time to cut. They cool down (idle) for about a minute to 3 minutes depending on size of saw and amounts of work they’ve done.
I usually start the saw and then get on all my ppe. Then it’s time to cut. They cool down (idle) for about a minute to 3 minutes depending on size of saw and amounts of work they’ve done.
Yeah its going to be something like that. We have to do some maintenance on the saws in the morning before we go back to the clearing job. At the same time of the saws doing this I’m having some misconduct issues. Already been addressed just one of them hard seasons of being the boss
Nutball
TreeHouser
I like to stop a few times during a stump cut. I saw a video of a 661 with a temp sensor on it, and the cylinder would go from around 175F at idle to nearly 450F in only 40 seconds of cutting, and it was still climbing.
That’s crazy! Is there any type of safe operating temperature for a chainsaw engine? These last couple months I’ve been noticing all of the saws seem to be running hotter than I remember in the past. In all fairness I’ve gotten a lot better with my sawing and awareness of them but it still seems crazy
Nutball
TreeHouser
It would be interesting to compare max temps at different rpms all at full throttle to see if the load affects temperature. Generally, higher in cut rpm should keep the engine cooler.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Make sure the cooling fins are clean, especially in summer.
Magnus
TreeHouser
If rpm slows down or stop it will get even hotter as the cooling stop.
Best way to cool a saw id flip throttle up and down in rpm, fuel and air cool it very fast.
Noodle
Treehouser
How do people find the oiling on their 500i. Not so much the pump itself but the tank capacity? I generally have the oil adjustment turned right up which on all the other Stihls I’ve run (MS201’s, MS462’s, MS661’s) is fine. The fuel runs out just before the oil. If I run the 500i completely out of fuel I find the oil tank bone dry, I started paying attention to it after that and surprised that the bar stopped oiling when I was getting low on fuel.
When I looked into the specs for a 462 and a 500i the fuel tank capacity is increased (no surprises there), but the 500i actually has a smaller oil tank capacity than a 462. I must be missing something here.
When I looked into the specs for a 462 and a 500i the fuel tank capacity is increased (no surprises there), but the 500i actually has a smaller oil tank capacity than a 462. I must be missing something here.
Hello! We don’t have any 462’s but we have three 500’s. When I fill both gas and bar oil to max and I run all of them at max oil output (pin pushed in). It seems to me that all of our saws (201, 251, 261, 500, 661) will run out of gas right before the bar oil runs out. Maybe yours has a better oil pump 🤷♂️ no matter what stihl says it seems like there’s differences in the saws based on where it gets sent nationally
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Canola or petroleum?
How much idling time per tank?
How much idling time per tank?
Noodle
Treehouser
Petroleum. Hard to say idling time estimate, but maybe 2-3 minutes out of a half hour tank?
Noodle
Treehouser
Probably don’t need all the oil but I think the bar and chain wear better with it. Aussie, so always hardwood. 20inch mostly but occasionally a 25inch.
