Stihl 362

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  • #26
Tucker943 said:
Why didn't you return it immediately? Don't keep running it.
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Tucker, the dealer kept saying it needed to get some use since it was a new saw. I was out on the job, with tools all spread out and some complicated rigging set up. I was frustrated that I would have to stop and drive 40 min to take a new saw that I just bought back in. But you're right, I probably ruined something now by running it for 7 hours.

The start/stop/choke switch is very mushy and imprecise. Husky needs to fix that, too. Very disappointed.
 
Dealer can reset it to factory defaults. Then run it in like manual.

Or you can do run in and see if it takes. Most of the saw builders say it works to learn after their porting.
 
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  • #29
Thanks, Reddog. I just called the dealer, and he is expecting me and the saw later today.
 
Going on to my 3rd season now with my 562XP ,only issues I had was hard starting after warmed up in 90F and over days. Then under those conditions I learned to use the fast idle setting to avoid the problem.
The saw is kinda like me I don't like working in that kind of heat too. :D
But on the subject of the Stihl 362 CM which has similar auto tune technology as the 562XP , has anyone had problems starting the 362CM also?
 
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  • #32
I'd still like to know about the 362, if the bar tip goes into the dirt when you set it down.
 
Yes those new master control switches on the new Huskies is a new learning curve from the old ones. But I do like the auto on and just tap it to shut off.
 
Reddog said:
FYI: on pg 29 in the 562xp Owners manual from Husqvarna.com
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This should be done when you pick it up at dealers. It should be all ready to go, just gas it up and run!

If it had a proper service prior sale this is not a issue, then it is something else, one of the two pages probable causes.
 
The 346XP Husqvarna with a 16" b/c for example will easily fall over on it's side when set down on the ground, just a little stone or twig can tip it over.
Fat bottomed Stihls never had that problem;)
Think of the times when you finish cutting and set the saw down before the chain stops turning, then it falls over and the ground stops the chain..... not good for keeping your chain sharp.

That's the price you pay for streamlined ergonomics:D
 
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  • #39
Magnus said:
This should be done when you pick it up at dealers. It should be all ready to go, just gas it up and run!

If it had a proper service prior sale this is not a issue, then it is something else, one of the two pages probable causes.
Click to expand...


Was running a 24" bar, which is what came with it. Bought a 20" bar because I think that's what I'd use mostly, but haven't tried it out yet.

Magnus, what do you mean, ready to go, just gas it up and run? That's what I was expecting! You must be "old school" like me.
 
Magnus meant if it was a GREAT dealer, he would have already run the saw and had the auto tune set up for you and the saw was ready to cut wood.
Most dealers in the US don't do that, they put a little bit of fuel and oil in them, start them to make sure they run, drain them and send them out the door. But as Wally said, there is an "adjustment period" for the auto tune to set itself to run properly. But it still shouldn't have been that hard to start, if the dealer did fire it up in the store?
I'm not sure what's going on with your saw, and I'm really sorry to hear you are having problems with it. I'm a big proponent of that saw and there seem to be very few issues with them compared to some others on the market.
 
bstewert said:
Was running a 24" bar, which is what came with it. Bought a 20" bar because I think that's what I'd use mostly, but haven't tried it out yet.

Magnus, what do you mean, ready to go, just gas it up and run? That's what I was expecting! You must be "old school" like me.
Click to expand...

I'm not suprised it is nose heavy with a 24". I live in small bar world - most run a 15" or 18" on one.
 
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  • #42
The dealer did start it up and it took a few pulls. But he's twice my size. When I got to the job site, it started with five pulls and chainbrake on. Rest of the day I couldn't get it started with the brake on. The sound on each pull was like you were trying to start it with the switch off. I got more exercise just trying to start the thing all day than moving 20" x 16 rounds of maple. I really tried to not shut it off after awhile, but I don't like walking away from a running chainsaw sitting on the ground.
 
Take that saw right back and tell the dealer to call you when it is fixed. That's not right nor is that how they behave until they have run time in. That saw is under warranty and has a problem. Don't settle for the dealer telling you to be patient. They don't need patience. They need gas and oil. Trust me.
 
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  • #46
Here's what happened at the dealer today. He started the saw right up.

Auto tune has nothing to do with it. It was me not understanding the switch. So yesterday I basically spent 7 hours trying to start a flooded saw. What the Husky engineers did is put the start/stop/choke in one switch, and you have to know the threshold between what's a warm engine and a cold engine, and where you put the switch, and how many times you can crank on it before it floods the carburetor. On top of that, it's possible to get the switch stuck in the middle, as it happened once today by accident.

I don't care what you say, that switch is not user-friendly or intuitive, and there is not a "positive" on and off position like most every other saw. This was not explained to me when I picked up the saw, and it's not clearly explained in the manual that I got with the saw. However, the dealer was very nice and took the time to show me what was going on inside the saw. If you ask me to explain it tomorrow, I will probably forget.

To set Auto Tune you have to run the saw at 8-12,000 rpm the entire time for 3-5 min. He said it would apply if I went up to 2500' elevation, but here in town we're maybe 100' at most. So N/A on that one.
 
bstewert said:
Was running a 24" bar, which is what came with it. Bought a 20" bar because I think that's what I'd use mostly, but haven't tried it out yet.

Magnus, what do you mean, ready to go, just gas it up and run? That's what I was expecting! You must be "old school" like me.
Click to expand...

I don't think it is old school, it is just to follow guidelines when doing deliverance service.
 
sawinredneck said:
Magnus meant if it was a GREAT dealer, he would have already run the saw and had the auto tune set up for you and the saw was ready to cut wood.
Most dealers in the US don't do that, they put a little bit of fuel and oil in them, start them to make sure they run, drain them and send them out the door. But as Wally said, there is an "adjustment period" for the auto tune to set itself to run properly. But it still shouldn't have been that hard to start, if the dealer did fire it up in the store?
I'm not sure what's going on with your saw, and I'm really sorry to hear you are having problems with it. I'm a big proponent of that saw and there seem to be very few issues with them compared to some others on the market.
Click to expand...
No I mean if the saw was sold at a dealer that followed the instructions given prior sale, that is done!
Not a good or special dealer, just one that do what he supposed to.
He should at sale or after tell you how the saw work and show you fast idle hot start etc.
If all fail, read manual...
 
I don't like these fresh air engines they don't work for pro's that use a saw daily. 550/560 won't last 2000hrs or 1500 for that matter. Very few over 1000hrs...
562 is not sold here so I don't know about that one, but the rest we had here sure don't do the tricks we need them to.
Stihl also have a lot of issues with these fresh air engines.

Runtime. That is what it should be about, how much run time you get for your money. Trinkets, design, gadgets and fictive features are cool and fun, but won't fell trees or earn you any cash when saws are on repairs or dead. It used to be like this:
2000hrs or more = Pro saw
1500-2000hrs = Semi pro
1000-1500hrs = Farmer
20-1000hrs = consumer grade....

If a pro used a saw 1,5 year it would still be able to fix it up and sell top a farmer for another run.
Here they last 6 months, perhaps a year if you get a new on warranty or put some £€$ in it half way.

I have customer that a few years ago ran the 55 professionally 2500hrs. A saw made to run 1500.. Then sold it used for half money!

Autotune system get the blame, but it is in my opinion the engines that is the bad guy.
These new ignition and fuel systems would make a rocket out of a 357/359.
 
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