SRT techniques for beginners

  • Thread starter Thread starter jprice88
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 398
  • Views Views 31K
LOL @ 'water bowline.'

Just lock it off...

Don't judge me. If I tie off to the base of a tree with a running double water bowline with a Yosemite finish the firefighters will think I'm so cool when they show up after some day laborer cuts me out of a tree on a sub contract job.
 
I use bowline with a very snug stopper knot behind it,and sometimes with a cow type bight,regularly,some ropes are rigid and have a bad lay so i guess depends on what's going on. to each their own I suppose.
 
That's useful. I wedge an arm behind the line, but that usually puts you in a more awkward cutting position. I'll try to remember.
 
That is a good trick to be safe with basal anchor!
Also great to read this conversation again! Back when many of us had never done SRT. Back when there were only a few SRT devices. Crazy how much has changed!
 
With the appropriate gear like Hitchhicker and Akimbo, even the zigzag in my case, you can switch at will between the two techniques during the climb. This way you can benefit of the best of the both worlds.
I do that in every tree. Very handy.
 
Ooh, Threadcromancy!

I'll add my $0.02

I love my Unicender, and I love my Monkey Beaver 2.0 harness and suspenders. I do not always like how they work together when ropewalking. I'm just not a big fan of the chest clip, my device is never where I want it, and I just don't like it.

So I use a cheap flat bungee strap, clipped to the back of my saddle, over my shoulder to the Unicender. It tends perfect, stays where I want it in relation to my face, and I can shrug it off or back on easier than faffing with a chest clip. Got my bungee at O'Reillys for two bucks.
 
As far as I can figure, your more static ropes are better for higher climbs. Like at least 100 plus feet. Less bounce for the climb. But the longer the line, your elongation specs really come into play.
At 100 to 175 feet, my 11mm Bandit works great. Not a lot of bounce with a basal tie when rope walking. Still has enough elongation in 200 feet of rope to absob a slip and short fall.
Short climbs, maybe not so much. But I have shorter ropes for those that have a tad more elongation.
So Ryan, most the trees I've seen you climb are not near the 100 foot mark. Most, way under that. So you are probably right.
 
@Ryan Do you mean using a static rope (manufactured to have very little stretch under load) for tree climbing, or using a climbing system wherein the rope is static (as in not moving)? Or both?
 
Sorry I deleted my post like I do most of them.

The gist of it was, I feel I'm too stupid to understand SRT. I also shouldn't have said Static Rope climbing but I thought thats what srt was.

I'm just frustrated at learning a technique that is "better" but involves expensive devices that appear to need way more babysitting than a hitch and spooky shit like basal ties. Just looking at a Rope Wrench setup gives me anxiety.
 
I like very static ropes. Like climbing a cable. No bounce, and you're not pulling rope through the system before you even start climbing. If I can handthrow the tie in, I /tend/ to use mrs with a springy 16strand. Higher, and I shoot it with an apta, and use my cable rope in srs. Currently using kernmaster special static in 11mm. I love the weight, I less love the skinny size, and it seems very particular regarding hitches. For simply climbing, and not carrying or manipulating rope, my favorite is ½" KM3. Love that line. Very static, and you can use just about any kind of hitch, with any kind of cord on it, and it works well enough. Very heavy though.

realtime edit:
A ropewrench is an ideal intro into srs. It's fairly cheap, and doesn't require much fiddling. Add a foot ascender, and it's a quick trip up the tree without a ton of work. Add a knee ascender to that, and it's luxurious. A base tie is nifty cause you can have a backup if your TIP fails. It's still a bad situation, but if it's arranged conveniently, you'll drop into another branch that hopefully holds you without hurting you too badly, which is where the screamer comes in. If you're climbing mostly low spreading hardwoods, maybe mrs is better :shrugs: If you have $100-$200 to spare for a basic srs setup(ropewrench & foot ascender), it's worth it just to try it out imo.
 
I'd agree with that, but it's a serious bump up in cost for someone just figuring out if they even like it. I love my hitchhikerXF. It's everything I want in a device. It's like it was custom made for me :^)
 
Another vote for the HH from me. It's what I use most often for both types of climbing systems.

@Ryan Like I posted earlier, the terminology/acronyms are a bother as they have changed over time and continue to do so. To the best of my understanding, the current rendition is SRS/SRT=stationary rope system/technique and MRS/MRT=moving rope system/technique.

In the older days SRS was called SRT...single rope technique. We called MRS a DRT system...doubled rope technique.

There was a shortish time that DRT got labeled DbRT, for doubled rope. I think this mostly came from the mind and keyboard of one Tom Dunlop...he seemed to think it made more sense. Some folks adopted it for a while, but it fell out of favor, just like Tom did :D.

History from one of the old guys...as best I can recall it:). I'm happy to be corrected.
 
Last edited:
There was a shortish time that DRT got labeled DbRT, for doubled rope. I think this mostly came from the mind and keyboard of one Tom Dunlop...he seemed to think it made more sense. Some folks adopted it for a while, but it fell out of favor,
This is why I like using "srs" and "mrs". They're simple, and get the point across in broad terms. I also use arbitrary capitalization typing on the web. I just type things the way I feel like it, and only capitalize when I want to, or is necessary to avoid confusion. Mixing upper and lower case in a single abbreviation is confusing, and hamstrings the way I want to type.
 
Back
Top