SRT techniques for beginners

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  • #27
With the hitch climber pulley ... Don't I just connect a schwabish friction hitch above it..


Arborist learning the ropes
408286a2dff7fa6edd4a9b2a8d30f8c9.jpg

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jprice88 said:
With the hitch climber pulley ... Don't I just connect a schwabish friction hitch above it...
Click to expand...

Yes for a DdRT system as shown in the photo where the friction is shared between the hitch and the TIP above and your weight is shared between the two legs of the rope. However, you asked about SRT systems and without the shared friction and halving of weight the hitch will tend to bind up and also risk overheating/glazing the hitch and climbing rope. To prevent this, SRT systems use an additional mechanical device like the rope wrench or hitch hiker to share the friction with the hitch.

Here is an example of an SRT setup with the Rope Wrench...

Rope_Wrench_Set-Up (Small).jpg
 
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  • #29
See I was confused about that .. Thank for the info. So for the SRT I'll need a rope wench to keep the friction off of the friction hitch..? And the photo I shared was ddrt


Arborist learning the ropes
 
jprice88 said:
See I was confused about that .. Thank for the info. So for the SRT I'll need a rope wench to keep the friction off of the friction hitch..? And the photo I shared was ddrt


Arborist learning the ropes
Click to expand...
If you are climbing DdRT, you have two strands of rope bearing your weight. A 200 pound climber , on a friction-free pulley, ddrt system is going to load each strand with 100 pounds of force. 100 pounds on the hitch. A 200 pound climber will exert 200 pound of binding force on the hitch, while suspended on one strand.

An SRT device 'absorbs' that extra 100 pounds that otherwise binds the hitch.

A hitch hiker pinches the rope. a rope wrench and a rope runner bend the rope over friction bodies.
 
Isn't that basically what I said a few posts ago?

If I were you mate, start climbing with your doubled rope / Hitch climber pulley system. Get comfortable and familiar with climbing and moving around a tree and descending.
While doing this, read much more about SRT, watch YouTube videos and ask more questions.

Then gradually make the switch to real Single Rope Technique climbing, at least you'll have half a clue about what everything means and what bits of equipment are meant to do what!
 
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  • #34
Bermy said:
Isn't that basically what I said a few posts ago?

If I were you mate, start climbing with your doubled rope / Hitch climber pulley system. Get comfortable and familiar with climbing and moving around a tree and descending.
While doing this, read much more about SRT, watch YouTube videos and ask more questions.

Then gradually make the switch to real Single Rope Technique climbing, at least you'll have half a clue about what everything means and what bits of equipment are meant to do what!
Click to expand...


Thanks all for the advise I have been looking, reading, and doing everything I can to learn more. Thanks for the patients bc I'm not really used I the climbing lingo either. I really do appreciate it all



Arborist learning the ropes
 
GemCutter said:
Yes for a DdRT system as shown in the photo where the friction is shared between the hitch and the TIP above and your weight is shared between the two legs of the rope. However, you asked about SRT systems and without the shared friction and halving of weight the hitch will tend to bind up and also risk overheating/glazing the hitch and climbing rope. To prevent this, SRT systems use an additional mechanical device like the rope wrench or hitch hiker to share the friction with the hitch.

Here is an example of an SRT setup with the Rope Wrench...

View attachment 60873
Click to expand...

Great post!

Tim
 
Hey, jprice88 ! My name is Tim. Welcome to the Tree House forum, just in case I haven't said so already.

There is a guy named Daniel Holliday, if I'm getting the spelling right, who has put together in one place the single most comprehensive set of videos on the internet with regard to climbing and rigging. The thing that makes him so outstanding is that he appears to have had a plan in mind with regard to his videos, one which would demonstrate in a thoughtful way, all of the major areas of knowledge necessary to get off to a good start as a climber and arborist. He puts out the usual disclaimers that one must to protect oneself from being sued into poverty, but nonetheless, his videos can show you how it's done.

Here is a link to his original website. He has a presence on YouTube, also, but I like his own website better. The reason I like his website better is that it is organized so that you can easily find all the videos by category, like "Basic Climbing Techniques", instead of having to wade through a hundred different video offerings just to find the few that interest you. His use of categories make it easy to study one area of interest with intensity. Dan had a plan, it seems to me, and he has succeded in creating the finest collection of videos on the internet for folks that want to learn to climb. It was the comprehensive nature of his offerings that gave me the courage to try.

http://www.climbingarborist.com/

One thing I would say to a person who is relatively new to climbing, for safety's sake, is to avoid creating a setup or situation in which a single point of failure can lead to your demise. If you are 100 percent dependant on a single hitch functioning as it should, or you die, I think that is a problem. The more experienced climbers on this forum may disagree with me, and have more faith in their gear than I do. I tend to want to build in as much redundancy into my climbing systems as possible, for the sake of safety. The up side is that this also gives you more options as to what you can do, and can make work positioning easier. The down side is that it takes longer to set up.

I don't mind the extra time it takes to set up. My first priority is always safety, and getting back down with no injuries and without killing myself. I also tend to climb in a very conservative fashion because I climb alone. I want no surprises.

Sorry to be so long-winded. Good luck, and climb safely.

Tim
 
I tend to want to build in as much redundancy into my climbing systems as possible, for the sake of safety.
Click to expand...

Hi Tim,
That was very well written. As a new climber, I completely agree with redundancy but have not found a easy way to have a backup to my friction hitch other than my lanyard. What do you use?

I have considered getting this

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=280&item=1499

Thoughts?

Thanks, JayT
 
That would need to go on a seperate line, I think. Somewhat like all other technical rope-access industries require, I believe, from second hand info.
 
Why?
If it is just a backup in case you get a branch stuck in your primary ascender, shouldn't it work fine?
 
Bowline can slip up the tree. Use a cinching knot like a running bowline. Better yet, use a tensionless anchor.



http://portal.treebuzz.com/simple-lowerable-base-anchors-719

In this picture it is easy enough to tie the tail of the climbline, to the tail of a rescue line. You can then lower a climber from any height. No cutting sh*t in an emergency. Nothing moves until you unwind the trunk wraps.





Any base anchor can be set at 6-8' with a strong enough stool (Rubbermaid garbage can, hand truck, log chunk).

This takes out the "I work with people who's judgment I can't trust with a base-tie and a saw" reasoning.

This also reduces the chance of a log bombed out of the top of the tree bouncing against your rope. Most logs hit lower, IME.
 
Whoops I meant running bowline. I really am taking a step in learning SRT. I just dont wanna take a one way express to hell 80 feet up. I got a tree motion saddle, kiwi klimber, foot ascender, and now just waiting for diff colors of the rope runner.
 
SouthSoundTree- said:
Bowline can slip up the tree. Use a cinching knot like a running bowline. Better yet, use a tensionless anchor.



http://portal.treebuzz.com/simple-lowerable-base-anchors-719

In this picture it is easy enough to tie the tail of the climbline, to the tail of a rescue line. You can then lower a climber from any height. No cutting sh*t in an emergency. Nothing moves until you unwind the trunk wraps.




Any base anchor can be set at 6-8' with a strong enough stool (Rubbermaid garbage can, hand truck, log chunk).

This takes out the "I work with people who's judgment I can't trust with a base-tie and a saw" reasoning.

This also reduces the chance of a log bombed out of the top of the tree bouncing against your rope. Most logs hit lower, IME.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your comments in this post, Sean.

Tim
 
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