SRT techniques for beginners
- Thread starter jprice88
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CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
And of course, with the HH, you can float either SRT or Ddrt. No matter
So far, I can't find a Canadian outlet that sells it. I sent an email to Ropetek for shipping costs. Wesspur.com has them but it takes me awful close to buying it without giving me the final converted price and shipping. I'll try again when I'm sitting at home on my laptop.
Funny, yesterday I was having a mental meltdown over trying something new and now I'm damn near buying one.
Funny, yesterday I was having a mental meltdown over trying something new and now I'm damn near buying one.
Are you exclusively looking at the originals, or are mods on the table? I have Mumfords XF with captive eye. You could cheack out his site. He's had an "expo special" up for months now, and it's $70 cheaper than the same thing on the same page. Dunno what that's about.
I haven't used the original, but from looking at pics, this how I'd compare them...
Original Pros...
Steel. About as bulletproof as you can get.
Lower bollard is a simple steel carabiner. Cheap and easy to replace
XF Pros(compared to original)...
Smaller and lighter
With the captive eye model, there's a builtin tending point. You have to buy or build something for the original
Friction plug? It's feature I could do without, but it doesn't hurt anything, and someone else might find it useful
climbing-innovations.myshopify.com
I haven't used the original, but from looking at pics, this how I'd compare them...
Original Pros...
Steel. About as bulletproof as you can get.
Lower bollard is a simple steel carabiner. Cheap and easy to replace
XF Pros(compared to original)...
Smaller and lighter
With the captive eye model, there's a builtin tending point. You have to buy or build something for the original
Friction plug? It's feature I could do without, but it doesn't hurt anything, and someone else might find it useful
Products
climbing-innovations.myshopify.com
Sorry John, I know nothing about these devices or what I'm looking for, or should start with. This is the one I'm looking at from the website. The ones in your link were a little too much for me to process all at once. They look pretty damn cool though.
ropetek.com
Hitch Hiker 2 | RopeTek
ropetek.com
Burnham
Woods walker
They're basically all the same. The one you're looking at is the original by Cox. The one I linked is an "improved" version Mumford came up with, which is a refinement of an earlier version he made. I put improved in quotes cause it's largely a matter of taste, but it does have some subtle tweaks to the overall form that are probably nicer. I had a hard time deciding, and it came down to availability, Cox's wasn't available when I wanted to buy, so I jumped at the chance to have my decision made for me :^D
Burnham
Woods walker
@Ryan Try this and the next few posts after it. Pay special attention to what DMc posts, and his pics. The whole thread would be worth reading, it's a long one with lots of stuff to absorb.
Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?
Okie dokie...might need to give it a whirl, bro. Thanks for the feedback. Burnham, I'm sure no expert so I rely on picking up as much information from people like you and David who understand more about climbing and tree work than I ever will. I take in as much as I possibly can and apply it...
www.masterblasterhome.com
Burnham
Woods walker
Another good set of pics from Dave.
Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?
Works real well, I personally don't use it with the HH. I like my hitch close to my chest and due to using a extra beaner for HH orientation puts it a bit further up than I like.
www.masterblasterhome.com
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Think about how much lighter a throw bag and ascender are than a ladder.
The older you get, the more you need labor- saving tools and techniques.
A wooden rope- wrench is almost free to make.
The older you get, the more you need labor- saving tools and techniques.
A wooden rope- wrench is almost free to make.
On that note, there's also hacks to make one out of a micropulley. Jonny built one here...
Making a rope wrench
After watching videos of Kevin making wood prototypes it got me thinking. Im going to make one to see if that is the route I want to go. Any input is welcome. What kind of would wood you use? What size hole would you make? I'm going to use it on some samson hyperclimb.
www.masterblasterhome.com
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What is different in basic SRT than the end of the rope being somehow attached stationary on the trunk of the tree ( instead of stationary relative to the saddle),
and a rope still moving through a climber's 'positioner' ( hitch, mechanical, or combo) attached to the bridge ( or equivalent)?
As far as I can tell, it's a starting framework from which all advances in SRT can grow.
and a rope still moving through a climber's 'positioner' ( hitch, mechanical, or combo) attached to the bridge ( or equivalent)?
As far as I can tell, it's a starting framework from which all advances in SRT can grow.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Yeah ok mate, definitely a legit post!
Any special requirements or considerations if I were to SRT into position (throwline, basal tie) with a handled ascender and then work DRT rigged from the ascender? Is that too much to rely on the ascender alone? Should I have a hitch above/connected to the ascender as a backup/second point of contact?
If I'm reading you right, I wouldn't rely on any ascender for life support. You'd use the ascender to get up, but fall prevention should be a hitch(either cord or mechanical). Using a hand ascender alone to get up a rope would be A LOT of work. You'd want at least one foot ascender. Unlike mrs, you're pulling 100% of your weight up the tree, which leads to the ropewrench or hitchhiker. Their purpose is to take some of your weight off the hitch, cause otherwise it'll lock up tight, and probably be unmovable til you take weight off of it.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
If you want some MA, pull a base- tie system into place with a pulley already hung to create a 3:1.
Not isolating branches for a TIP is such a help.
Look into the Secret Weapon set up if you want to ascend on a stationary rope/ work on moving- rope.
You can also hang a MRS on a non-isolated, base-tied rope, if you're not ready for all the benefits and changes of SRS/ SRT.
Rope walkers and "rope-wrenches" can be made for a fraction of the cost.
I literally used a hickory handle from a hammer for my first wrench, pre-zk1 Rope Wrench commercial release.
Not isolating branches for a TIP is such a help.
Look into the Secret Weapon set up if you want to ascend on a stationary rope/ work on moving- rope.
You can also hang a MRS on a non-isolated, base-tied rope, if you're not ready for all the benefits and changes of SRS/ SRT.
Rope walkers and "rope-wrenches" can be made for a fraction of the cost.
I literally used a hickory handle from a hammer for my first wrench, pre-zk1 Rope Wrench commercial release.
SW looks awesome but confuses me a bit. A lone hitch on a single rope is not trusted for life support hence the need for a RW or HH etc. but a lone hitch on a single rope is ok in a SW setup. Is this because you set it and load it and it never moves thus creates no heat?
I have other dumb questions but I don't want anyone to get a headache from rolling their eyes at how little I know.
I have other dumb questions but I don't want anyone to get a headache from rolling their eyes at how little I know.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Me RN.
This isn't the correct way to look at it. An appropriate hitch is always fine. What the devices do is allow them to work by taking some force off the hitch. If not for the devices, the hitch will bind up tight, and you won't be able to move. You won't fall, but you won't be going down at any other speed either.
If you wanted to test it, set up a base tie on a convenient tree, put your hitch on it, get a couple feet off the ground, and give the system a good bounce. Then try descending on the hitch. You probably won't be able to.
edit:
I'll add that these hitch based devices aren't life support either. A hitch is mandatory for them to work. The ropewrench will slow your fall somewhat if something happens to your hitch. Might be slow enough to grab the rope, but I wouldn't count on it. If your hitch fails with the hitchhiker, you're going down at pretty close to natural speed.
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Kaveman
Treehouser
Baby steps my Canadian brother, that's what we're here for, to disseminate our knowledge.
In this case, the dumb questions are the ones unasked, we wouldn't want you hurt.
Burnham
Woods walker
@Ryan DO NOT work DRT off of a handled ascender. The load even a small drop places on the cam can damage severly, even part the host rope.
You certainly can ascend with a handled ascender footlocking, or with a foot ascender, or a foot and knee ascender and then switch over to DRT for working, just move the DRT tie in to the tree first.
You certainly can ascend with a handled ascender footlocking, or with a foot ascender, or a foot and knee ascender and then switch over to DRT for working, just move the DRT tie in to the tree first.
The ability to change between SRT and DRT very easily with the HH is why I chose it as my first SRT device.
I used to carry a Petzl grab that I'd put a revolver biner in to make a 3.1, but when I got the technique/rope/hitch tuned in I realized i didn't need it.
I have an ORIGINAL original HH, and it's still working just fine for me.
I recently added the 'Holster' for a self tending point as the cord loop I used to have often would work around and then side load the steel biner. The Holster is a shaped piece of stiff plastic designed specifically for the HH/HH2 as a self tending attachment, and it keeps everything upright. I quite like it. If you buy an HH/HH2 then I'd recommend getting a Holster as well.
I do base tie just about everything, love it or hate it, that's what works for me. Sometimes I get my groundie to untie the base tie and I switch to DRT or a canopy tie depending on what the job needs.
One device to conquer them all...my precious HH
I used to carry a Petzl grab that I'd put a revolver biner in to make a 3.1, but when I got the technique/rope/hitch tuned in I realized i didn't need it.
I have an ORIGINAL original HH, and it's still working just fine for me.
I recently added the 'Holster' for a self tending point as the cord loop I used to have often would work around and then side load the steel biner. The Holster is a shaped piece of stiff plastic designed specifically for the HH/HH2 as a self tending attachment, and it keeps everything upright. I quite like it. If you buy an HH/HH2 then I'd recommend getting a Holster as well.
I do base tie just about everything, love it or hate it, that's what works for me. Sometimes I get my groundie to untie the base tie and I switch to DRT or a canopy tie depending on what the job needs.
One device to conquer them all...my precious HH
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