SRT techniques for beginners
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Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Like Burnharm said, don't put an ascender with a toothed cam as an anchor point. Drt or else under it doesn't matter. The point is the hard bite made by the teeth in the rope's cover. The pointy little teeth penetrate between the fibers to hold the load. But only a fraction of the fibers are working at it and they are borderline overloaded even in regular use. In the occurrence of a hard tug, like catching a fall, the device can't give anything to dissipate the energy and all the strain is applied to the same fibers. Too much to handle. At least that can damage the rope, rip the sheath or even tear apart the rope.
The friction knots and the ascenders with smooth cam(s) are able to slide a little when overloaded and dissipate part of the excess of energy without destroying the rope.
But don't play at "catch me" for fun. Even with a properly designed gear for that (mountain gear), it can end (and has) very badly.
PS to the pictures of my HH.
The number of wraps and crossovers will vary depending on your hitch cord type and your weight.
4 wraps 1 crossover on 10mm beeline is my present sweet spot.
Edit,
And your climb line
The number of wraps and crossovers will vary depending on your hitch cord type and your weight.
4 wraps 1 crossover on 10mm beeline is my present sweet spot.
Edit,
And your climb line
Last edited:
SeanKroll
Treehouser
The SW is solid as an upward-moving or stationary hitch, as used. It won't descend well.
The hitch on a single leg of stationary rope holds a DdRT/ MRS (the hitch is 'spiked' beneath it to act as a blocker to the hitch sliding in the event the hitch was poorly chosen/ tied).
Hitches in MRS/ DdRT hold about half the climber's weight, allowing good function when descending.
The hitch on a single leg of stationary rope holds a DdRT/ MRS (the hitch is 'spiked' beneath it to act as a blocker to the hitch sliding in the event the hitch was poorly chosen/ tied).
Hitches in MRS/ DdRT hold about half the climber's weight, allowing good function when descending.
Kaveman
Treehouser
See, that's why newbies are intimidated.
I know it's expensive but just grab a Unicender and an 11mm static rope. Clip the Uni to your bridge and get to work...
It self tends on minimal weight, there's no adjusting crap, it's midline attachable, faster than anything else I've seen. SRT, DRT compatible with no extra parts.
I tend to set a line and climb up SRT with just the Uni and a Notch Jetstep, then rappel down DRT, so I can bring the rope out with me.
I know it's expensive but just grab a Unicender and an 11mm static rope. Clip the Uni to your bridge and get to work...
It self tends on minimal weight, there's no adjusting crap, it's midline attachable, faster than anything else I've seen. SRT, DRT compatible with no extra parts.
I tend to set a line and climb up SRT with just the Uni and a Notch Jetstep, then rappel down DRT, so I can bring the rope out with me.
it seem‘s like it would make limbwalking tough for beginner‘s, don‘t you think?
i‘d love to own a uni someday
Kaveman
Treehouser
I fail to see how.it seem‘s like it would make limbwalking tough for beginner‘s, don‘t you think?
i‘d love to own a uni someday
I should point out that the Unicender has two modes of decent, squared.
SRT, you wrap the rope, OR, clamp the plates to decend.
DRT, you clamp the plates to decend, OR wrap them to waste time, since the friction of DRT is enough to slow you to the point where a wrap releases the devise and then holds you.
I find my limbwalking to be limited by my confidence and balance, and I've taken some hard swings into trunks to learn the difference. My rigging, devise, or hitch, hasn't been as much of a problem as my own grey matter.
I ended up ordering a ISC RopeWrench, a double leg stiff tether and a fresh hitchcord. I qualified for a "freebie" and chose a Notch V3 Quickie. Probably a terrible time to order anything in the mail this close to Christmas but I had to pull the trigger. Hopefully I'm playing with it before the new year. I'm pumped!
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
As a point of practice, I Never start a training of SRT or Ddrt with a mechanical devise. And feel it is folley for the trainee to go there. Too much can go wrong and too touchy. Hitches or hitch reliant devises are better suited.
Just my .02
Yall are adults. Carry on.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What have you taken away about SRT systems?
What questions to you have?
Unless you're hung up on the whistle-stop test (whistle blows--- all rescuers drop everything),
a tensionless hitch, tied off with several half hitches on a bight, somewhere in the middle of the rope, is a simple, lowerable base-tie, allowing a short tail/ standing end. I always put stopper knots... others never do. No extra gear needed.
I have one from Amazon....
@SeanKroll I don't understand what you describe but that's ok. Maybe you can make a short video detailing it one day. @CurSedVoyce I was too spooked to consider starting with a mechanical device. Having the familiarity of a hitch in the system will bring a bit of comfort as I dip my toe in.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I'll make a video
SeanKroll
Treehouser
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Yes, two could have sufficed. A small and smooth trunk may/ would warrant more than 2.
I think the TB poster of this technique, where I first saw it, was Macswan, long ago. Not my figuring.
I think the TB poster of this technique, where I first saw it, was Macswan, long ago. Not my figuring.
All good! Don't forget how small I am
The only difference I do from your second video is I have a second rope available and it would get tied on the end of my line. With the wraps on the trunk, the knots can be undone, the extra rope added and then the whole lot walked around until the friction is low enough to lower without having to worry about premature slippage.
The only difference I do from your second video is I have a second rope available and it would get tied on the end of my line. With the wraps on the trunk, the knots can be undone, the extra rope added and then the whole lot walked around until the friction is low enough to lower without having to worry about premature slippage.
Thanks for your time!
SeanKroll
Treehouser
You're welcome, Ryan.
Keep questions coming.
I reckon I might explore "content creation" and learn to edit videos. I know it's not that hard, and there are long winter nights.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
The wrench is perfect for you Ryan, just slap it over your hitch cord/Blake’s, taut line whatever and you got SRT/SRS.
Some hitch info. VT is a bit touchy trying to balance grab and free upward sliding, complicated by matching just the right hitch cord length with number of wraps and braids used. It cal also tend to extend towards your RW depending how short your tether is. Common wisdom is to try a michoacan hitch which has more consistent grab, nicer release and its compact. You can look up what cord length, cord and number of wraps other people have successfully used. With your newly bought cord, just experiment how many coils you can manage to tie and whether it still slides easily. Best of success to you. Also candidates - xt and I think distel, closely related knots.
I'll have a 24 and a 28 inch cord to play with and will experiment with hitches. I've been watching seminars from TCIA expo 2021 on base ties and canopy ties. It's been so long since I 've actively tried to learn something new....never even Yosemitied a bowline before yesterday.
My order shipped from Missisauga yesterday. Really hoping it's here before my 4 day xmas long weekend.
My order shipped from Missisauga yesterday. Really hoping it's here before my 4 day xmas long weekend.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Bulk, knotted cord allows fine tuning, as necessary.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
24 is pretty tight. I favored a 24" but with spliced tight eyes. Made for a good tight VT with little set back. 28 is probably going to suit you better with other hitches or if you need knots for eyes. Double fishermans say. If too short, let me know what you are climbing on and I can send you some longer if needed. I have a couple of cords lying about.
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