Sizwill? Sizwheel? Whizzy? WTH (What the Heck)

Like a built-in guy on the side, as the whole bunch of fibers splits out of the stump, flexes and follows the butt's move, instead of just breaking by over stretching as usual.
 
Can anyone share their thoughts on adding a second vertical bore cut (parallel to the vertical face of the siz) at the estimated thickness of hingewood left after finishing the back-cut, as Pat shows here at the 5:40 mark?
 
Double hinge.
I use that or triple hinge on bad sideleaners.

If you make the hinge too thick, it'll lose the ability to flex and simply break instead.
By making vertical relief cuts you can turn that big block of hinge into what is basically 2 or 3 hinges working in unison.

Some one showed a video of a big cottonwood being swung with a triple hinge and I simply had an epiphany, as in: " Why the hell didn't I ever think of that".

I have been using it since, always with success.
Vertical fibers is a must for this.

This was an ash with really bad sidelean and fortunately also some frontlean.
It was leaning over one of the oldest chestnuts ( Castaneum) in the country and the owner of the castle would have been rather pissed off, it that one got squished.
It worked so well that after dinner the whole bunch of us left camp and went out to sit around with a beer and analyze it.
Turned the whole crew into triple hinge born agains :)

P1060350.JPG P1060351.JPG P1060352.JPG
 
Bout a third of the diameter in.
I usually gut the hinge when doing whizzys or the like, on the theory that having two separate blocks of hingewood instead of one hinge, where both sides are sort of working against each other, works better.

My former apprentice did this tree while I was supervising and taking pictures.

Since those pictures were taken, I've started making the cuts both higher up and lower down in order to induce as much flex as possible.

I have done some nifty stuff with a combination of this and a step dutchman on sideleaners.
Using the triple hinge to make a straight fall 90 degrees to the lean and then having the step dutchman ( block of wood set into the facecut) break the hinge at the right moment and letting the tree swing to the lean in order to avoid scraping next generation's veneer log on the tree in front of it.

That is the kind of thing that makes one proud, when it works.
 
He doesn't cover the documentation very well.


IDK...Seems like it falls into the soft dutchman, and rolls around. I haven't quite figured it out, fir sure.
 
His plan seems like
1- pass beside by the left the big one in the front
2- avoid smashing the nice little one in the background, sadly staying just in line with the trajectory for the point 1

Nontheless, that needs a very good hinging wood to play with. The hope is thin when the trunk breaks free just with a 10° rotation.
 
He doesn't cover the documentation very well.

IDK...Seems like it falls into the soft dutchman, and rolls around. I haven't quite figured it out, fir sure.

I get what he was aiming for, and it landed right where he wanted it. Perfect.

You can't argue with success.

Just seems to me like more time spent and cutting than necessary. That's all

Maybe I'm getting too critical in my elder years.
 
Is that
He doesn't cover the documentation very well.


IDK...Seems like it falls into the soft dutchman, and rolls around. I haven't quite figured it out, fir sure.
Is that how a soft dutchman works?


I would take it as more cutting, less wedge beating.
Do you concur, Doctor?
 
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