Saw video thread

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  • #276
Off topic post here ; does anyone know where I can get a copy of “Fundamentals of tree work” - iirc the author is a member here ... like to brush up on some basics and it seems like quite the comprehensive tome to say the least ...
 
Bertrand pipe I talked a friend into buying from him for a ported 372 I was selling him.

I put a MVP5000 pipe on my ported race partner 5000 for testing for a race and it was 30% quicker 1 cut times in the 8x8 cants.

pipedhuskyxwt.JPG pipedhuskyxx.JPG Copy_of_pipedsaws_001.jpg
 
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  • #282
If all is working in concert perfectly ... 50% gains in total hp can be achieved ... not sure exactly how this would correlate to cut times but 30% quicker seems believable for sure !<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HQXOZXxue2o" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> ... here’s a gent buckin wood with a pipe-Saw !!!
 
:lol: I'm talking 30% quicker by just adding the pipe to a already very hot ported saw. The saw was already 50%+ better then stock with muffler. So lets just call it around 80% quicker then stock in 1 cut times with pipe.

I can only imagine how much the chain played into it too. Was a disassembled chain that was thinned from the inside and then lighter drive links used and whole chain taken down to bare min.

I dont care about such things anymore. Never heard the wood complain it took me a few seconds longer in a cut to date. All that stuff just matters when racing IMO.


That video is Scott Kunz from WI with a ported 660 on pipe. He makes some great saws.
 
Just got to hear how quick these 3 cuts were. Another top notch operator running a Helsel saw. There is a video showing close up, but it was from phone to phone.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y1LS5BOf1XQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Then cold start and 3 cuts

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mrdwuyUdXZo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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  • #285
I dont care about such things anymore. Never heard the wood complain it took me a few seconds longer in a cut to date. All that stuff just matters when racing IMO.

I’ve never heard the wood complain either ! If you’re turning dead trees to firewood ya might as well run hot-rod saws ... that is if you want a decent hourly rate ...
 
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  • #286
... That’s neat ; you can just copy a link - no more “embed” haha nice 😎 - watch ol Frankie burn off some lard !
 
Frankie said:
... That’s neat ; you can just copy a link - no more “embed” haha nice 😎 - watch ol Frankie burn off some lard !
Click to expand...


Put the rounds up on a splitting block, or really hard compacted ground...you'll not lose power to the compression under your maul that soft, vegetated soil gives. Far more efficient for hand splitting.
 
A trick I like the looks of but haven't tried yet is putting a tire around your round to split. Keep the biggest round as a chopping block, put a smaller round on top, then a tire around that. Keeps everything together so you aren't bending over and resetting rounds so much.
 
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  • #290
Burnham said:
Put the rounds up on a splitting block, or really hard compacted ground...you'll not lose power to the compression under your maul that soft, vegetated soil gives. Far more efficient for hand splitting.
Click to expand...
Splitting block? Too much work lifting rounds up on it ... besides I feel that you lose some power on your swing - I noodled em in half and split em right where they stood -less handling of the wood ... That Fiskars maul is da bomb ! Your mileage may vary
 
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  • #291
lxskllr said:
A trick I like the looks of but haven't tried yet is putting a tire around your round to split. Keep the biggest round as a chopping block, put a smaller round on top, then a tire around that. Keeps everything together so you aren't bending over and resetting rounds so much.
Click to expand...
On ground is easiest ... for less strain u can use a hookaroon to pull them upright ... I imagine a tire wood be useful but those are big ash chunks lol ... I noodled them in half with the Saw - biggest pcs were 22”+
 
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I use a maul+wedges more than I use a splitting maul. It's rare I get nice splitting wood, so every round is a puzzle figuring out how it'll come apart. My maul is ~18" long, so it's easy to swing one handed when I've whittled an ugly down so far it doesn't want to stand up. I typically use a chopping block of some sort. I spend a fair amount of time picking pieces back up, but oh, well.
 
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  • #293
Yeppers ! More than one way to skin a cat - I’ve seen guys prep a pile of chunks and then use a strap to hold everything upright and then go to town ... if you’ve never tired a Fiskars maul you’re missing out imho - excellent design for both splitting and the handle greatly reduces any shock to the operator ... I used it for hours with nary a blister - me back WAS a little sore though :O
 
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  • #295
That would whoop up on a stock 660 , 661 ! I have an 064 that’s been hotwoods ported and runs strong as well... Having owned and built both (660,064) the 064 platform seems superior from the factory for extracting more powa ... the stock 660s are dogs but then again we can’t expect much powa from a 90+cc Saw whose exhaust outlet is the size of a pencil eraser !
 
That has a stock piston in it with no work done to piston. 066 no decomp cylinder

None of this hyped up BS others charge big $ for. Just a WV logger saw with ports touched and squish tightened. Back in 04-06 when work was done.

Same saw with a play chain.

 
To split wood manually, a very useful holder is a healthy stump in place. Cutting it low gives a very sturdy area and doesn't loose too much height to allows to maximize your hitting efficiency.
 
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  • #298
Stumps or chopping blocks are fine for those who prefer those methods ... For myself I feel that I lose power in the swing by elevating the wood - as much or moreso than what the ground absorbs , and if you are working with bigger pcs with large surface area the ground will not absorb as much as most believe ... moving/lifting 100lb pcs to a dedicated splitting block will get old ..... very quickly ... For this job the tree was dropped , bucked , larger pcs noodled with Saw and wedged and sledged where needed ... Follow up with Fiskars maul working from stump to crown and split em into firewood ... when u take a break from swinging the maul throw what ya split into a pile ... I’ve watched Buckin Billy Ray split and have adopted the “split em where they lay” idear ... your mileage may vary
 
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  • #299
... the only move I’m not comfortable with is the “golf swing” on the ground
 
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