Ring sling

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Retrievable rigging ring sling I've been playing around with... Half inch 3-strand with a steel eye, 28*20 ring on a prusik (my friend David spliced the prusik with 10mm ocean polyester). Fusion of climbing and rigging, operates exactly like an adjustable friction saver, can set and retrieve from the ground...
 

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TreeMuggs said:
@Brocky I had no idea that brummels were even possible with 16 strand! Did you invent that technique?
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It was brought up in a thread a number of years ago, don’t remember anyone being successful at the time. Not much advantage over the standard splice as the crossover still has to be done, I did shorten the bury to a fid and a half.
 
here is my ring slings
top one is 20ft, bottom is 15ft (cut with chainsaw, dad re-spliced shorter for fun) middle is an 8ft ultra
9/16 ABL bull rope with no.2 elevation canada rings
5/8" tenex tec with no.2 elevation canada ring, spliced without a fid, just taper the ends, wrap tight with electrical tape, saved me a fair bit not buying a fid set (this is how ive done all my tenex tec splices)

1643246270739.png

splices done by arbsession, my dad, and me
 
quite handy, especially 3 strand, I can have him splice something sitting on a curb mid job with nothing but his pocketkife, and I know it will be good to use

also, tight eye on bull rope + steel biner + rings = amazing, setup is super fast (I originally was leaning towards a block so its midline attachable, but lets be honest, are you never able to access the end of your bull rope?)
the elevation canada rings are cheap, I don't have much use on mine but they feel friggen bomb proof, have a good bend radius (says the guy who has negative rigged with just a rope snap before investing in rings), friction is smooth, overall I think they are incredible for the price, and super easy to splice, I never have to worry about someone not knowing how to use them
 
WoodCutr said:
quite handy, especially 3 strand, I can have him splice something sitting on a curb mid job with nothing but his pocketkife, and I know it will be good to use

also, tight eye on bull rope + steel biner + rings = amazing, setup is super fast (I originally was leaning towards a block so its midline attachable, but lets be honest, are you never able to access the end of your bull rope?)
the elevation canada rings are cheap, I don't have much use on mine but they feel friggen bomb proof, have a good bend radius (says the guy who has negative rigged with just a rope snap before investing in rings), friction is smooth, overall I think they are incredible for the price, and super easy to splice, I never have to worry about someone not knowing how to use them
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Just a comment on your point about the tight eye on the bull rope. I know it holds the bina in place nicely but I started splicing them with large eyes after chatting with a couple of other guys.

Theory was, if the eye is say 9”, that is approx 18” or rope used to form the eye. Rigging lines get shock loaded even though we try not to. The larger eye allows a bit more stretch in the rope before the splice gets shockloaded.

Same way as having more rope in the rigging system reducing the shock load on the component and structure of the tree by utilising some of the properties of the rope itself.

Any comments in this theory?
 
I have been using tight eyes on my 1/2” lines for years with no issues. Personally I don’t think there is much if any more shock absorption with a longer eye. We generally run the tight eye about four months then splice the opposite end of the line and run that about four months then the line gets down graded to a tag line.
 
the line I use has 1% at 10% abs (I think) 200ft will stretch 2ft at 1000 pounds, 18" doubled over to make an eye won't have any stretch whatsoever

Just my $0.02
 
No, there is actually a stretch. It's half what sustains the regular bull rope, because in the eye, there are in fact two ropes to take the load. So, it's half the load per eye's side, therefor, half the stretch. It's some really tiny amount though and I don't see it to make a difference on the splice vs the all length of rope involved in catching the load. Beside some close natural crotching, where the rope's length before the heavy friction is very short.
 
WoodCutr said:
the line I use has 1% at 10% abs (I think) 200ft will stretch 2ft at 1000 pounds, 18" doubled over to make an eye won't have any stretch whatsoever

Just my $0.02
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But in the event of shock loading, the eye is the weakest part of the rope. The little extra material used will have some give before the splice takes the hit.

I haven’t bought much in the way of rigging gear recently as I splice my own. But all the major manufacturers had larger spliced on them from factory. That goes for dead eyes and rigging lines.

Not so much with the thimbles and rings as they need to be cinched to keep them in place.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #39
WoodCutr said:
here is my ring slings
top one is 20ft, bottom is 15ft (cut with chainsaw, dad re-spliced shorter for fun) middle is an 8ft ultra
9/16 ABL bull rope with no.2 elevation canada rings
5/8" tenex tec with no.2 elevation canada ring, spliced without a fid, just taper the ends, wrap tight with electrical tape, saved me a fair bit not buying a fid set (this is how ive done all my tenex tec splices)

View attachment 117718

splices done by arbsession, my dad, and me
Click to expand...
I bought a couple of huge plastic knitting needles then cut the tops off. They make great large fids
 

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frans said:
I bought a couple of huge plastic knitting needles then cut the tops off. They make great large fids
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I was gonna do similar, but got the rope and ring before I had time to, so I just used the tape, worked super well but you go through allot
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #41
Does anyone know where to get a large steel rigging ring?
 
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