Pulling wood out of the brush?

And finally pics.
The part no. as promised, the new parts, the old one out, the hole and the new one in.
 

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If you knew then what you know now, how long would it take you to change out the adapter assuming the motor was pulled?

Changing the adapter to a more common shaft would open options for mo betta pumps.
 
With the motor pulled, it's probably a one hour job Carl. With the motor in it took me 3ish hours. Piss poor welding, using a stick, jacking around using a ratchet and wrench rather than just hitting it with the impact (what got it out) and getting the drill speed right (cobalt).
Now mind you, I CHEATED, and cheated bad!! I used the existing holes in the crank for my guide. I followed them with a 1/8" drill bit. Then I went in with a .140" drill bit enough to get them started.
The pins are dowel pins, hard as rocks (I honestly don't know how I didn't break off or shatter one!)! And measured out at .137", idealey you drill them with the #30 bit, then ream them to .136".
 
OK, I understand now. The splined collar is pressed into place and the two dowel pins act as keyways to lock it in place and prevent it from spinning on the crank. Cool.

I'm slow but I'm catching up as fast as I can! :D
 
OK, I understand now. The splined collar is pressed into place and the two dowel pins act as keyways to lock it in place and prevent it from spinning on the crank. Cool.

I'm slow but I'm catching up as fast as I can! :D

Don't feel bad Brian, it took me a while to figure it out as well, and I was looking at it!!:?

I forgot Carl, add to that the time it took me to put out the fire!
 
Good job figuring this out guys.

This was all Thomas!!! PERIOD!!!
I had every mechanic or engineer I have ever known over here to look at this silly thing Steve! 98% told me I would have to change out the crank!!! Poor Tnt was scratching his head in fear! (he wanted the part no's:lol:) Nothing but helpful through the whole thing mind you!!!
Thomas called the next day and could pull up a Kohler part no. for me. It was superceded, but I got a new number and another place would order it for me. Without that call, I was pretty much done Steve!!! ONE guy that came over had seen something like this, but he thought the dowels where tapered. Very close. But he knew for sure how to get it out!

Another FYI Carl, they make three of these, a 7, 9 and 13 spline. Just the difference in the 7 to 9, I can't see why you would need the 13, but it is available.
 
Hey, one question, did you grease up the spline good when you put it back together?
That is what causes a lot of the failures, the splines rust and then that works like an abrasive.

Good job on sorting it out.
 
Andy, maybe I missed, but is there a cause to your troubles other than alot of hours on the machine?

Can I do something to prevent this happening on my Thomas?
 
Yeah, it's got 1400hrs on it. Maybe taking it off and greasing it once year? Other than that it's just normal wear.
 
Better put a new seal in while it is apart. You were worried about to much heat from a heat gun!!!! I would say you had more heat there than that....:lol:
 
Better put a new seal in while it is apart. You were worried about to much heat from a heat gun!!!! I would say you had more heat there than that....:lol:

The seal held up fine. I just welded in spurts. Tack, turn the crank, tack, put out the fires, turn the crank etc.......:lol:
 
personally--because of the heat and the cold--im in iowa--use antisieze--why???? because moisture wont affect it--if theres any gap in there when it runs--moisture WILL get in there--then any type of gun grease aint worth a d#$^--antisieze is nearly forever--
 
I packed it with wheel bearing grease. It's a fairly sealed area, got to be better than nothing.
 
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