How much weight do you do yourself Sean, and what do you use for friction?
Idk.
A lot of single or double-wrap natural crotch rigging, sometimes with an additional stub friction/ tie off in a near by location.
Lots of double-whip tackle with natural- crotch friction, either with sling and biner, or natural-crotched through a fork.
I've used a BMS Belay Spool (inspiration for the TreeStuff Aerial Friction Brake).
Having a mini let's you make "grapple piles", stack them cross- cross, dump chunks onto them, pick log chunks up, then grab the grapple-piles and shove them in the chipper.
Depends on what you are doing tho, swinging whole leads over houses in one shot isn't going to be a climber only kind of thing. Neither is stuff you have to drift away from structures or speedline stuff, or blocking trunk wood. Another human controlling a rope and/or pulling a line to guide a fall is pretty awesome and can remove a bunch of messing around cutting stuff smaller.
I just did an easy pruning job on recommendation from the neighbors (a removal job last summer) a couple days ago.
For the neighbors' 60-70' phototropically- grown, forest-edge maple overhanging their garage, I took three rigging ropes, landing some from in the tree on the swing with timing, or suspending off the ground, with wraps on stubs. Tying midline can give 3-4 pieces per rope.
Once in the ground, i could flip the lockoff wraps until i had lowering friction. Once a piece hits the ground, the wraps would keep the remaining piece(s) locked off, as weight was removed.
Solo speed lining just means terminating the rope(s) at the bottom, and tensioning at the top. I have around 20+ slings and biners.
Blocking logs down with an overhead or to-the-side anchor point is easy enough. Negative blocking smaller stuff is possible...
Bigger stuff with a little more care... sometimes redirect the tail away from the rigging point. This pulls you toward a point away from the work, and finger-eating friction points.
Good cutting alleviates the need for pull ropes often...vertical pieces can have the COG undercut with or without a hinge. Leaning pieces have a lean to pull them off.
It takes a good roper to land on the swing, but it is Not rocket science. If i can't land it, i tie it off for the time, maybe tips on the ground and butt leaning at a building, and move on within the tree until I'm ready to come down.
Hanging a piece and dicing it while hanging comes into play, too.
Most of the time, i cut and lower when i have a ground worker.
Some of the time i need help landing a piece, or need it cut as its landing.
No time lost communicating a place, and contingencies. I feather the tension as i cut, as needed, without hoping the groundworker understands, or that i can relay the necessary info at the pace they can absorb and implement.
Sometimes, like with an ascending limb, mud-tied, you have to feed slack before it will drop, then hold tension to catch/ lower the piece.
Way easier for one person, close to the action to do it right.
I always know not to swing the piece into me, no matter what.
It's great to have safe, productive assistance...and climbers are often very reliant on ground workers, unnecessarily.
This is a solo speedline opportunity. It was tightened once at the bottom, but could have been adjusted up to instead. I slung and slid about a dozen limbs on one rope tensioning.
The second picture was a maple where i lowered most of the limbs myself.
The one i didn't do myself, i should have. From the ground, the rope through the Morgan Block was not able to be pretensioned the right direction, nor enough, and i clipped the fence, with minor damage.