Need my first "big saw" advice on ms46x's?
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Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
For removal, I run either the ms 150 or the ms201T, usually until I run out of gas when comming in the bigger wood. Then I take the ms462. Sure, in theory you can cut relatively easily 2x the bar's size, but pratically aloft, it's a pain in the ass. A small bump on the bark, a small missmatch of the cuts, a 3 limbs fork and you are stuck. Same if you can't walk around the trunk, like with an heavy leaner or an oddly shaped one.
Even bucking on the ground with a "half" bar sucks. 1,5x is more rational for a dayly use. The 201T can do it no problem even in hard wood but that takes time. Be patient here.
Much easier to bring out the bigger saw, quick and effective. It's heavier but less tiring if you put the time in count. I climb with the ms661 too if I have to, even the 3120xp-44"bar, heavy and hard to move around but sooo usefull when comes some big ass poplar or willow.
An important point for the big saw in the tree : the bar length. 20" is my favorite. It can cut some pretty big wood but it's still user friendly. I mean, often you have to pull the saw out of the cut while bucking on spikes. 20" is the right length for me to slide out one handed the saw until freeing the bar tip while holding the log with the other hand/arm. 24" began to be too long and the bar tip barely escape. The 44", I cry and call my Mummy.
Even bucking on the ground with a "half" bar sucks. 1,5x is more rational for a dayly use. The 201T can do it no problem even in hard wood but that takes time. Be patient here.
Much easier to bring out the bigger saw, quick and effective. It's heavier but less tiring if you put the time in count. I climb with the ms661 too if I have to, even the 3120xp-44"bar, heavy and hard to move around but sooo usefull when comes some big ass poplar or willow.
An important point for the big saw in the tree : the bar length. 20" is my favorite. It can cut some pretty big wood but it's still user friendly. I mean, often you have to pull the saw out of the cut while bucking on spikes. 20" is the right length for me to slide out one handed the saw until freeing the bar tip while holding the log with the other hand/arm. 24" began to be too long and the bar tip barely escape. The 44", I cry and call my Mummy.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #104
If I get this job tomorrow I’m probably going to order the 462 but being an east coast guy they never have the wrap handle versions in stock and idk how long it would take to get one in (buying the handle in the future ultimately will cost more). My goal is to get it with a 20in bar and in the future get a 28in sugihara bar (or an Oregon Versa cut). Still gotta do my research on what bar I want
If it were me, I'd get it with an ES light bar, and half wrap. I haven't had a need for a full wrap, and I suspect you won't either. If you end up somewhere a full wrap would be amazing, you can make due backchaining, and think about getting a full wrap later.
Burnham
Woods walker
I'm not Marc...but anyway
.The weight difference is negligible. The ability to cut equally well from both sides of the bole, with both the top and bottom of the bar, and handle the saw ergonomically correctly in all cases makes the wrap handle worth considering strongly. The only place the wrap is a negative is in cutting really low to the ground in ALAPing the stump...or felling with Stig and meeting their low stump standards
.
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #107
Thank you both for your input 😁 I’m gonna go to the local dealers tomorrow and get my hands on the saw. Gonna get some estimates and estimates times for a full wrap saw. If it proves that it will take too long to get it then I’ll probably just get the one on the shelf and order the full wrap if necessary. Let’s see what the dealers say 😁😁😁 oh and burnham that’s a really good point with trying to cut the stump close to the earth. I wouldn’t have thought about that
SkwerI
Treehouser
Years ago the bigger Stihl saws with a full wrap handle had higher output oilers than the half wrap versions. And the saws with full wrap handles were only available on the West coast. I always bemoaned the pitiful oilers on the MS440 and MS660 (also the 441 and 661) and spent some time researching and finding the part numbers for the higher output oilers. I was able to order the oilers thru my local dealer. I have no idea about the oilers on the newer models, although my MS462 never had any issues.
There's at least one thread buried here in the forum with the oiler part numbers.
There's at least one thread buried here in the forum with the oiler part numbers.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #111
Gotcha skwerl! That’s very good info, when I’m researching the new full wrap handle 462, it’s called a “rescue saw.” Like it’s marketed to emergency personnel, so if that’s the case it wouldn’t surprise me if they beefed up the oiler for those “emergency situations.” Gonna get on the local dealers nerves but I’ll get something figured out today 😁
biggun
Monkey for Hire
Just reading with interest. I admire your enthusiasm.
As for saws.
I run a couple of timed and ported 150t's (10") and then have two 200t's both ported and modded (12") I don't like a longer bar on the 200t as they just feel unbalanced.
Getting into he higher CC i have ran a 441 (20") bar for years and have used many 440's, 460's, 461's and 2's. I find they fly with a 20" bar and I have never had a problem handling saws that size up a tree. From there I jump to a Ported, Dual muffler modded 660 running a 30" bar. Again easy enough to use up a tree for me.
I have done quite a few jobs on spikes and running an 880 with 40" inch bar. Now that is hard work and comparing smaller saws makes you realise they are not that bad. It is all about perspective and you get used to handling bigger saws aloft and changing techniques to suit. For example when I am trying to start a cut with an 880 I tend to hitch my left leg up high and rest the saw on my knee via the elbow. Takes the strain off the shoulders.
Burnham mentioned the 361 saw. They are great to use but if they are available in your area have a go on the new 400i saw from Stihl. It will do everything a 361 will accomplish and you will be smiling like a cheshire cat afterwards. They are a delight to use.
As I said it is all about perspective. Pictures to illustrate it could be worse.
As for saws.
I run a couple of timed and ported 150t's (10") and then have two 200t's both ported and modded (12") I don't like a longer bar on the 200t as they just feel unbalanced.
Getting into he higher CC i have ran a 441 (20") bar for years and have used many 440's, 460's, 461's and 2's. I find they fly with a 20" bar and I have never had a problem handling saws that size up a tree. From there I jump to a Ported, Dual muffler modded 660 running a 30" bar. Again easy enough to use up a tree for me.
I have done quite a few jobs on spikes and running an 880 with 40" inch bar. Now that is hard work and comparing smaller saws makes you realise they are not that bad. It is all about perspective and you get used to handling bigger saws aloft and changing techniques to suit. For example when I am trying to start a cut with an 880 I tend to hitch my left leg up high and rest the saw on my knee via the elbow. Takes the strain off the shoulders.
Burnham mentioned the 361 saw. They are great to use but if they are available in your area have a go on the new 400i saw from Stihl. It will do everything a 361 will accomplish and you will be smiling like a cheshire cat afterwards. They are a delight to use.
As I said it is all about perspective. Pictures to illustrate it could be worse.
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #113
Ive heard a few of y'all speak well about the new 400. biggun you said 400i, did you mean the 500i or the 400cm? Spec sheet wise the 400 doesn't look very impressive but a paper is obviously different than actual use. I like the idea of the 462 for what y'all are saying: rips with a 20in bar and feels good in the tree but I could still throw a 28in on it with no issue which would make "my larger fells/bucking work" a little bit easier. I was looking in to the weights of different bars. Can't find any prices but for sugihara being advertised as a strong lightweight bar, but it was appearing the Sugi's weigh more than the Stihl lightweight bars, even the Stihl ES bars seem lighter than the sugi. Any recommendations on bars of the 20 and 28in caliber with considering price and durability?
biggun
Monkey for Hire
You are correct.
400 not 400i.
as for bars. I have a few Sugihara and they might last a bit longer. I don’t really notice the lightness or even compare. It is more about the balance for me.
I like to grab the regular grip on the side and like the bar to be almost horizontal. Flat.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #116
Just put my hands on a 500i and I’m in love. They gave me a price of 1350. No 462’s in stock and takes them months to get any pro saws right now so I might have to jump on the 500i real soon. There gonna hold it for me for a couple weeks at most
Nutball
TreeHouser
Forget the sugihara or versa cut bar, Stihl light is the best light bar you can get. I can't say that sugi is even lighter than a regular Stihl bar, certainly not by any significant amount.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #120
ALRIGHT GUYS! God is good!!! got the job for the tree, while there I got a call for more tree work. Another $3000 worth to be exact and I didn’t expect that at all, hopefully that happens but it looks promising. Got the money together so either later today or tomorrow I’ll be picking up the 500i with 20in bar, a 32in light stihl bar and full comp chain for it! Transferring of funds is taking some time so as soon as it does the saw will be mine
got the job for the tree, while there I got a call for more tree work. Another $3000 worth to be exact and I didn’t expect that at all, hopefully that happens but it looks promising. Got the money together so either later today or tomorrow I’ll be picking up the 500i with 20in bar, a 32in light stihl bar and full comp chain for it! Transferring of funds is taking some time so as soon as it does the saw will be mine 
Congratulations 💐
I was going to say that I had the opportunity to run a 500i about a year after buying my 462, and yes, I would have bought it instead if it were available when I traded up for the 462.
You've landed on your feet with that purchase.
So the big tree, why do they want it gone?
I was going to say that I had the opportunity to run a 500i about a year after buying my 462, and yes, I would have bought it instead if it were available when I traded up for the 462.
You've landed on your feet with that purchase.
So the big tree, why do they want it gone?
SkwerI
Treehouser
See if your dealer has skip chain for that saw instead of full comp. I've run skip chain for the last 10 years, cuts just as fast and half the teeth to sharpen.I buy it by the roll and spin my own loops, but your dealer may stock it in premade loops.
BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
Just out of curiosity, what are you going to of with all the tree waste from that messy takedown (as this appears to e a side job for you, or is it not)?
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