Nasty pine bid

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I wonder how much damper effect there would be to branches that were all on one side of the CG.
 
I'm just lazy, dont wanna type that many replies!
I expect the top to rotate back on the way down, likely land butt first and explode
 
How many degrees off vertical is it Willie? Looking at the pics I would estimate it is 8-13 degrees.
 
With all the theories, if's and how to,, you would think a solution could be gleaned from all this. Without hands on evaluation it's all up to speculation with the peanut gallery.

I remain trusted in Willie's decision.
 
The reason I ask is I was wondering at what point (how many degrees off vertical) you would have to consider different notch/backcut options! I imagine trunk diameter to height would play into the formula too, wouldn't it? Only you PNW guys can help us flatlanders understand!!!!
 
I would have the pushback force of the rotating top in my mind.

I have an idea that might reduce it. What do you think of this idea?View attachment 27574View attachment 27574

I tried that one time with a big locust top.. except no face, used a cos bay type cut, and the cuts were made vertically as per the boy scout's diagram.. On that tree I was trying to get the piece to fall straight into its footprint, as any rotation of the top was bound to damage the nearby tree tops.. I put a pull line in it as well thinking that the extre force would help blow the cut up before the top started to move.. Worked perfectly.. no movement at all to the top.. it just fell like a stone..

Tried it another time without the pull rope and couldn't replicate it.. the only other difference I could make out was that the one that worked was on a well below freezing day.
 
I'm just lazy, dont wanna type that many replies!
I expect the top to rotate back on the way down, likely land butt first and explode

Make sure Carl moves his pristine 660 at least a tree-length away as it has a tendency to be accident-prone.....o-o-o-r, have him set it where you want the top to wind up. Works like a charm!:P
 
Hmmm, be cheaper to fly him and his saw out, then I could just cut from the ground. Everything would land in a pile!
 
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I put this little 24 second video together.. watch it full screen and look at the shake of the spar on both cuts..
The first cut is a couple thousand pounds of top coming out.. the second cut is a 160 lb man rocking on a pull line.
Tough to compare the two as the first is wide angle and the second is zoom, but it looks to me like no more shake on the first cut than the second... I take the lesson to be... its a good idea to get that hinge to pop before the top starts moving much..
 
I'm all for doing the afore mentioned methods....tie in to other trees, guy it etc. However, one thing to consider is that with that lean, there is already a lot of weight on the root mass, yet the tree stands. The weight of a climber would not even be noticed, were the tree sentient...and as the tree is limbed it will get lighter.

While I'd want to take as many precautions as possible, I might be daring enough, were the tree standing alone, to climb to 120 feet and take a 40 foot top, which would be small enough to not pressure the stem much as it went over.
 
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