Nasty pine bid

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PITA tree, I myself don't 'love' trees like that. I love coming home safe every night. I'd bid that with a couple or few g's of pure profit.
 
OK, this solution is a little out there, and there's no way to know if it's even potentially viable from the pics...

I managed one not too different some years back by felling it, pulling dead against the lean with a road grader. It was about the same size, about the same diameter, western hemlock with fairly sound wood, some heart rot, also dead.

Climb to about 60 feet, maybe some higher if you can stand to, and set a choker or hefty sling. Haul up either a cable or stout bullrope and shackle it on.
Run the pulling machine out 200 feet or so and have another 75 feet of running room ahead of it. Take up enough tension to move the top back against the lean a bit. Face it up opposite the lean (in this case you say the tension wood is deteriorated, so your face is taking that out, hopefully leaving sound hinge and back cut fiber).

If the top sagged back to the lean with the face taken out, snug up the pull line a smidge more (it's better if you don't have to do this as it can be hard to move some machines a tiny amount, sometimes...using a big dozer with a winch would be ideal to overcome this issue).

Proceed with the back cut...I'd be inclined to set the back cut lower than the base of the face, to keep from pulling the tree off the stump...the higher you've been able to set the pull line and the better you judge the hingewood soundness to be, the less important this becomes.

If you have the tension from the pulling machine right, you just cut up to your desired hinge thickness, pull the saw and walk away...give the operator the go ahead and over she comes, away from the targets under the lean.

Easy peasy. :D
 
Thats a plan alright! Puts the climber at more risk! Which side would you pick to cut from, as the trunk has some differnt tweeks in it.

Glad its you guys and not me.
 
I thought I said to face it opposite the lean, Brent :P. Pay no attention to the "tweeks", beyond to figure them in to reading the overall head lean, then go with opposite your read of the lean.

Sure, if climbing to the height I propose is out, then it's not viable. I know Willie indicated it wasn't one to climb, but I interpreted that to mean it wasn't one to climb all the way up, top out and take down in bits. Going to 60 feet and rigging a pull line is a different matter than going twice that high and throwing the top, so far as risk to the climber goes.
 
I assumed you were going to have him cut it up while up the trunk. You mean cut it at the ground.

Boy you sure would want enough rope/cable or something that scampers to get out of the way when it commits to fall!

Carry on!
 
It looks like there are plenty of other trees around.
Are two of them in line with the one to be felled, so one could set a highline across to work out of?

If you can get that one set high enough, taking the top out should be doable.
 
I assumed you were going to have him cut it up while up the trunk. You mean cut it at the ground.

Boy you sure would want enough rope/cable or something that scampers to get out of the way when it commits to fall!

Carry on!


Yes, fell from the ground...I should have made that more obvious, I guess.

Brent...read my post, brother :D. I specified 200 feet of pull line and 75 more feet of running room...the tree is 160 feet tall. It'll stand up and commit in less that 75 feet for sure, less than half that I bet, leaving plenty of room, though there is always the chance that the top could throw substantial chunks when it breaks up hitting the ground.
 
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Good memory.. ..

Nah, but i do remember things that blow me away, that was the first time you blew me away...

I thought I said to face it opposite the lean, Brent :P. Pay no attention to the "tweeks", beyond to figure them in to reading the overall head lean, then go with opposite your read of the lean.

Sure, if climbing to the height I propose is out, then it's not viable. I know Willie indicated it wasn't one to climb, but I interpreted that to mean it wasn't one to climb all the way up, top out and take down in bits. Going to 60 feet and rigging a pull line is a different matter than going twice that high and throwing the top, so far as risk to the climber goes.

McKee+Bridge+%231.jpg

This is behind the tree:dur: Climbing to 60' is do able, that seperated strap is what concerns me about being up at the top and cutting her loose. I think the highline is doable, need to take another trip up there and see
 
I like Burnham's suggestion too.. (imagine that) too bad its got obstacles..

Though even with a perfect cut and pull line set up, that would take some serious nads cutting a notch in the rotten base of that tree from the look of it. I be inclined to go with a high pull line and a 2-3" of stump shot set up with a plunge cut and use a step cut for the back release. Its all academic though at this point.
 
I thought you'd be a little up-set with blowin' up a wraptor!
 
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