this is all I got out of it... was hoping for something more like butch's pic... thinking I only went half way through with the kerf cut... might go 60% next try..
Did you have a pull line in it?
simple physics yes... your understanding of said physics.. not so much ...
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I don't know if I missed it, was it not safe to climb?
I'd use a saw but that's just me....
cut the second stem high to shorten the fall
This is a time where a springboard shines. I thought the other day, do I need to put that springboard in the truck? I know what is coming from having done the bids. Nah. Was out at the customer's house and he added a dead cedar with a lot of sweep at the bottom, working against the way I wanted it to fall. Ended up cutting it off a short step ladder, and pounding wedges at max height. Worked out.
This week's job was much easier with the spring board. Used it two or three times to fell trees just a bit short of obstacles or cut above defects in a super rotten double trunked cedar.
In this case yet. It's about where the weakness in the structure is. We normally cut to create a hinge which will be the weakest part of the tree's structure.
When the hinge is left too thick, or there is a bypass in the face cuts, or in this case there is only a kerf backcut, there is a possibility that the weakness is in the vertical grain of the wood. That can split up or down depending on which side is weaker. At the stump, the high side will be weaker than the stump, so the trunk will split up. As it does the new pivot point will be some feet above the cut,
NICE!
it would be easy enough to cut the tree pictured from the hooks as well, but I'd rather use a high cut from the ground if possible casue its just faster than getting out the saddle .. ANd more importantly these days I can't wear the hooks anymore... Probably never will again.. they hurt my feet so bad last time.. it's been 7 months since the last time and they still hurt from it.. plantar fasciitis..