murphy4trees
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #176
I have made a study of the stumps around here and taken lots of pictures of these ugly stumps, but never organized it..
intentional barber chair
- Thread starter murphy4trees
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flushcut
TreeHouser
Heavy leaners I like to bore the back cut. Shallow notch, for some control, plunge and snip.
murphy4trees
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #178
lots of ways to skin that cat... bore cut is an essential part of the skill set
One a barber chair prone species, how do you get the hinge thin enough, withouth having the tree set down on your bar and pinch it.?
Talking really leaning trees, here.
Burnham
Woods walker
Set the hinge thickness up from the bore, then flip the bar and cut out the rear, or pull the bar and release from the outside.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
It's said that tripping from the back outside could grab your saw if even with or above the bore cut. I guess it could be the same if cutting all the way back until release after the bore. I trip from below to be safe, but I wonder what are the chances of it grabbing your bar if you don't?
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Stig spoke once about the major root pull he got to impress his crew and warn them against this danger.
He himself was impressed
It was a cut all the way back to outside, I think, but he didn't have the time to do so (as planned) and the ground exploded.
I never experienced that. Looks fun if you don't like your saw too much.
What I don't know is if a root pull could occur with the release cut by the outside as you said, maybe with a compromised stump (splitted or partially rotten). Otherwise, I think that grabbing the saw can be very possible if the release cut "above" isn't parallel to the bore cut and that ends with a bypass cut on a side. Not so likely with a level cut.
He himself was impressed
It was a cut all the way back to outside, I think, but he didn't have the time to do so (as planned) and the ground exploded.
I never experienced that. Looks fun if you don't like your saw too much.
What I don't know is if a root pull could occur with the release cut by the outside as you said, maybe with a compromised stump (splitted or partially rotten). Otherwise, I think that grabbing the saw can be very possible if the release cut "above" isn't parallel to the bore cut and that ends with a bypass cut on a side. Not so likely with a level cut.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
With so much compression forces, is reaming the cut an actual possibility?
Burnham
Woods walker
True dat...have to back cut under the bore cut level.
Burnham
Woods walker
Stig spoke once about the major root pull he got to impress his crew and warn them against this danger.
He himself was impressed
It was a cut all the way back to outside, I think, but he didn't have the time to do so (as planned) and the ground exploded.
I never experienced that. Looks fun if you don't like your saw too much.
What I don't know is if a root pull could occur with the release cut by the outside as you said, maybe with a compromised stump (splitted or partially rotten). Otherwise, I think that grabbing the saw can be very possible if the release cut "above" isn't parallel to the bore cut and that ends with a bypass cut on a side. Not so likely with a level cut.
I have not had this happen either, but I also recall Stig's warning. If I recall, Jer Beranek also mentioned this hazard. Doug Dent did not, and it was his classes that gave me the inside out release cut method as my normal approach, unless I saw something to steer me away...like compromised roots.
flushcut
TreeHouser
rico11764
Thin skinned
Nice reference to Doug Dent!! Haven't heard that name in years.
murphy4trees
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #188
I've seen large roots pull out on a side leaning mulberry.... not a very big tree so not particularly dangerous, but it did provide a valuable lesson of what can go wrong (and bent up a cyclone fence)... I think its one of the advantages of age in this business... If you;re around long enough, you get to see a lot of strange stuff happen and every time learn what can go wrong and figure out how to avoid it in the future..
Seems like if there is much chance of that happening , the tree could be strapped below the notch to keep the stump together, but tht wouldnt work on a monster tree that would be big enough to rip the strap..
Daniel
Seems like if there is much chance of that happening , the tree could be strapped below the notch to keep the stump together, but tht wouldnt work on a monster tree that would be big enough to rip the strap..
Daniel
Burnham
Woods walker
Gypo
TreeHouser
Ive seen roots pull lotsa times, sometimes even the whole root wad.
Be careful strapping leaners, if you cut too much holding wood you can stick a bar, before the strap is cut. Its like the holding wood compresses and the tree sits on your bar. I probably only strap a dozen trees a year, maybe less, and I cut thousands. Mind you, not a large variety of hardwoods, but we do cut lots of bigleaf maple and red alder, along with all the pnw softwoods. Big hard leaning old growth do often times get strapped, but I dont cut what I would consider a lot of old growth every year.
Be careful strapping leaners, if you cut too much holding wood you can stick a bar, before the strap is cut. Its like the holding wood compresses and the tree sits on your bar. I probably only strap a dozen trees a year, maybe less, and I cut thousands. Mind you, not a large variety of hardwoods, but we do cut lots of bigleaf maple and red alder, along with all the pnw softwoods. Big hard leaning old growth do often times get strapped, but I dont cut what I would consider a lot of old growth every year.
Burnham
Woods walker
Gypo, what is causing these lotsa times root pull or whole root wad pull? I am bumfuzzled.
Gypo
TreeHouser
Lotsa root pulls. Only a few root wads.
Root pull caused when holding wood is directly over a root. Grain of wood is often slightly twisted here and holding wood rips the root outta the ground. Fairly common. Something to keep in mind if you dont have a good place to get away from the stump.
Root wads going when tree falls is mostly due to compromised root systems, like rotton, or prolonged wet and windy conditions which have loosened soil conditions.
Root pull caused when holding wood is directly over a root. Grain of wood is often slightly twisted here and holding wood rips the root outta the ground. Fairly common. Something to keep in mind if you dont have a good place to get away from the stump.
Root wads going when tree falls is mostly due to compromised root systems, like rotton, or prolonged wet and windy conditions which have loosened soil conditions.
Burnham
Woods walker
Fairly common for roots to pull, you say. I'm not arguing, mind you...I'm sure you know what you know based on what is your experience. But that does not reflect mine. Different ground, perhaps, even though we both cut in western Oregon.
I've only twice in nearly 40 years had a rootwad go in a falling situation...both on top of cliffy bluffs with little soil, and mostly bedrock underneath.
I've only twice in nearly 40 years had a rootwad go in a falling situation...both on top of cliffy bluffs with little soil, and mostly bedrock underneath.
Gypo
TreeHouser
Root wads pulling quite uncommon. Only had a few do it down here. Was more frequent in SE Alaska. Timber was largely rotton, and as you say, shallow roots.
Roots and root wads pulling happens. You might have to cut thousands of trees to see it very many times. I would guess most here dont get do that kind of numbers, just like I dont have the climbing experience that they do.
Thanks for posting B, got me thinking!
Roots and root wads pulling happens. You might have to cut thousands of trees to see it very many times. I would guess most here dont get do that kind of numbers, just like I dont have the climbing experience that they do.
Thanks for posting B, got me thinking!
