Insect and bites

Little bit busy at work, still got me some low pay landscape, did cleat a fence, make $250.00 loss a cain. The cain lock up, cut not make that them think run on the bar. Well end it braking out a new chain. . Make about $ $175.00 For the day. Lots of torn vins got little bit F. 20160131_173924.jpg 20160131_173857.jpg
No t bad!
 
When my climbing saw throws a chain it tends to nick up the drive teeth which sounds like what happened to you. I find I can usually save the chain by finding the buggered up drive teeth and filing them smooth again. My other saws usually don't have that issue due to the style of drive sprocket, so I use those for brushy/vine junk to save me some work. Take your time and be patient, check the whole chain to make sure it runs nice through the guide bar. You'll feel the links that need work, and is should save you having to replace the chain.
 
Or, in a pinch. Just loosen the chain adjuster some so the chain will spin,rev it up, then re tighten. It works but I doubt it's very good for the bar. A lot faster than filing.
 
Jose, do you normally cart brush that way? You can also slash it down with a saw, its a total bitch of a task but you would easily halve the volume on that load.

"Rashering it up" as my old boss called it or "chainsaw chipping" as I've heard it called on the forums.
 
Some call that "burning it in". Back into the groove.

Yah I've never actually filed down abused drivrs, just run it in. Also a 'tip' is to always immediately hit the chain brake when a chain is thrown. This minimizes damage big time. Nothing infuriates me more than someone throwing a chain and then letting the sprocket spin down on its own.
 
Or, in a pinch. Just loosen the chain adjuster some so the chain will spin,rev it up, then re tighten. It works but I doubt it's very good for the bar. A lot faster than filing.

Ditto.
If that doesn't work instead of filing I used a hammer and my anvil to peen back the burs it's a lot faster than filing.
 
It is easy to pull or push up to the side. I put heavy logs on to to compress the brush. There was nothing thicker that 3".
 
The trick to me is keep all big stuff for the top. Don't stand on any uncut brush. I start at the back of the trailer, doing a swipe or two, then climb in, always cutting stuff free before standing on it.


This will keep binding to a minimum.

Be sure your chain is properly tightened, and your chain is sharp.

It really doesn't take much time to file a few drivers. Sometimes it won't ever fit into the bar, so you have to, if you want to continue to use the chain.




Never thought about the sprocket spinning. Thanks, Justin.
 
I do have that option with me on my vehicle, I need it to finish, so I went for the fast choice, I do have 2 extra chains.
 
I have lay down nylon bells then put all on top, them hook the bells to my cable and the other end to my vehicle pull all in one pull, out the trailer. Will try to take pictures as I set up and empty next time.
 
I've never had a kickback doing this (I use good technique, too). Binding is the bigger part.

Longer limbs on top hold the load down to the dump spot.

If you set up ropes below the brush, sideways, with extra rope coming out the side, then tie a running bowline on top, the anchor and drive, the RB will crush the cross-sectional rectangle of brush into more of a circle/ oval, and it will remove a lot of the side of the trailer friction. You just drive out from under the brush and retrieve your ropes with the truck.

The ropes also secure the load for transport.
 
Seems when slashing down brash, besides kickback, chain throws can get nasty and potentially catch you in a bad/awkward position more easily than 'normal' saw work.
 
We term it "coleslawing" thankfully not having to do it as often with both chippers now.
Good tip on the chain brake application on throwing the chain!
 
I've slashed a 5' pile down to 2' lots of times. It's what you've gotta do when the chipper breaks down and I hate it.
 
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