I tried an experiment. I'm sure the isn't in any way original. It may be apples to oranges compared to a real TIP with real world conditions. I used Sampson velocity rope over an old pull up bar in my basement. The chin up bar has two wraps of friction tape, the adhesive is towards the bar not the rope. I can "climb" Ddrt on this bar and the friction isn't noticeably different than a crotch in a tree. I "basal" tied it to a softener tank, and I used a fish scale. It is not even really science, since there are likely 100 things that could influence the numbers that are out of my control.
The hypothesis. A TIP point may have more or much more than the suspended weight on it when in use. One theory is that it will have close to the suspended weight because of friction. Another theory is that it will have 2 times the suspended weight because of lever and pulley math. A final theory is that is can have more than 2 times the weight on the TIP because of friction.
Step 1. Zero the 50# fish scale.
Step 2. Tie and weigh the weights with fish scale. 10.60#
Step 3. Rig basal tied SRT line without weights. Scale on basal side rope. 0.22#
Step 3. Hand tie weights on two bights of rope 5.26#
Step 4. Use a sum to estimate weight on TIP (Note: the basal side rope isn't perpendicular to the suspended weight rope, this number is off a bit) 10.60# + 5.26# = 15.86#
Step 5. Pull down on the suspended rope with my hand, maybe with and additional 20# of force for 1 second and release smoothly in 1 second. No jerking, no slow release, no body weight.
Step 6. Read scale stabilized scale after my hand is off the line. 23.96#
Step 7. Use a sum to estimate weight on TIP (Note: the basal side rope isn't perpendicular to the suspended weight rope, this number is off a bit) 23.96# + 5.26# = 29.22#
All values were taken in "static" conditions. The value was stabilized on the screen and my hands were away from the test setup. The fish scale screen only updates about every 2 seconds, there is no "peak hold" function. I made no attempt to read any values that wouldn't stay on the screen for more than 10 seconds, all reading were hands off.
Conclusion: If a conclusion can be drawn from this limited test, it is that the TIP forces can be 1.5 times, 2 times, or greater than 2 times the suspended weight. Some level of mechanical advantage is at play. As I type this there is almost 3 times the suspended weight on the TIP in my basement.
My opinion is that a basal tied system may expose the TIP to forces much greater than the climber's weight over an extended period of time. Sometimes much more than the approximate calculated 2:1 mechanical advantage.
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