hinge pics

[treebilly]

Just showing how I stack wedges. Didn’t work this time so I slammed it over with the next tree to go. Hinge pic was a different tree

 

[murphy4trees]

nice pics. That seems like a lot of back lean for wedges

Did you use a plate cut on that hinge pic. Looks like you took two pieces out fo the face. Was that an intentionally high first floor cut to the face?

I was told that is not spalted maple. can anyone confirm? thanks

 

[cory]

Spalting is a form of rot afaik. No rot in that pic

 

[treebilly]

I think I did what you are referring to Murphy. I missed a bit on my angle cut so I fixed it with the “plate”.
And yes, a bit to much back lean. Trying to keep every thing facing the same direction. I just dominoed another into it. A do as I say not as I do moment for the guy who was felling on the other side of the clearing.

 

[cory]

Hey what is that wacky stacking method, I think I ve seen it before but forget now.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Cory, I think Sean has shown that before

 

[cory]

yes indeed, no doubt. But it is quite different and I can't remember how it works exactly

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Below the back cut, bore into tree towards the face spaced like couple inches or so. Set wedges as you go. then you can alternate your strikes. Like they are staked with a little wood in between. My take on it. Clear as mud?

 

[treebilly]

I bore in above my back cut since there is no real market value on these logs. They’ll all be firewood. I can’t stack them like you guys do. They just spit out. I’m prolly doing something wrong so I just bore. As I said, I was over ambitious on that one. All three had the same ring when struck. We all know that sound.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Well, its a good trick when you don't have a lot of room for the saw bar, chain and wedge in the back cut on smaller trees. If I have the room, Ill often bore the back cut and hinge like you would for a head leaner that might barber chair, wedges in behind the hinge from the sides. But even then you are more limited on your room to place wedges before you trip the tree either finishing the back cut moving through the back of the tree or tripping the back strap for the outside.
The method you are using gives you more room and less dependant on the diameter of the log. Also, wedging from the side you have to be cautious as to not pop your hinge, Your method prevents this as well.

 

[greengreer]

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Nice hinges right there.

 

[ruel]

Some laser cut hinges, Jed would be proud... or maybe competitive

 

[cory]

Below the back cut, bore into tree towards the face spaced like couple inches or so. Set wedges as you go. then you can alternate your strikes. Like they are staked with a little wood in between. My take on it. Clear as mud?

Obviously it works, but never having tried it myself, it seems like you wouldn't have much lifting power because there is solid wood on either side of the bored kerf that the wedge is in?

 

[treebilly]

The bore cut causes the slivers to split out as you pound them in leaving a spacer of wood between the wedges. I need to cut some shims one day. Just haven’t got around to buying a new cutting board yet

 

[cory]

I can sorta imagine but what would you do with the shims?

 

[treebilly]

After I bottom out or bury the first set of wedges, I’d put a shim in for the next set to rest on. Hoping to not spit them back out like when I set two wedges together.

 

[cory]

Uhh, how you get the shim into the wedge bored-kerf if the wedge is in there? With a regular backcut of course, you'd put the shim to the side of the wedge

 

[treebilly]

Second set of wedges after the kerf has opened from the first set

 

[cory]

Oh Ok.

So the wedges aren't oriented on top of each other, they kinda zig zagged ?

 

[treebilly]

Crude drawing but
Wedges labeled one get beat into depth. Wedges labeled two get a shim and wedge after ones have opened the kerf enough. If needed after the twos are full depth, remove the ones and stack a pair of shims and a wedge in there place

In my pic of the bored wedges they are Directly on top of each other.

 

[cory]

Thanks for the drawing! l Yes the drawing makes perfect sense for normal back cut wedging.

The stacked/wood spacer wedging had me a bit perplexed

 

[treebilly]

I’ll recommend only using two wedges with the bore stack method. Every time I’ve used three ( like that pic) it hasn’t worked well. Either something is jamming up the wedges from driving properly or I’m biting off more than I can chew.

 

[treebilly]

Another one from yesterday. Nothing special
Had a slight internal Dutchman though

 

[stig]

Here is the setup I use for logging.
Wedge pouch from Bailey's with 3 stacking plates and 2 hardhead wedges.
For the size of trees we normally log, that is sufficient.
Set 2 wedges, bang one all in, retrieve the other.
Set that with one stacking plate, bang it in and retrieve the first one an set that with 2 stacking plates.
Tree falls over.