SouthSoundTree-
TreeHouser
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2014
- Messages
- 4,941
I don't always have a bathroom stain on my pants, but when I do, its at Walmart.
Thanks Stig. I've never really done a true block face. I was just curious on how you handled them. I was guessing that you being a seasoned feller would knock them out.
I was wondering about the hinge thickness equation on a 36" dia. ash tree I cut recently. My gut instinct was to thin the hinge a bit more, but it was already at or under the 3 to 3.5" thickness that the 10% rule would dictate. I am quite interested in that conversation.
Just stick to a hinge width being a percentage of the diameter.
Not if you cut your face too shallow, and have the fibers of the hinge running towards the front of the face.
Your idea goes against all felling lore, that says that one needs as vertical fibers as possible for max strength in the hinge.
We cut low in the woods here, partly because we are required to,and partly because on beech, you need to inorder to keep the log from splitting on the way to the veneer mill.
But on difficult trees, with valuable objects in the way, I go high, looking for vertical fibers.
We got good at shoulder/ head high humboldts with big saws because there can be more solid wood up there when dealing with root disease, as par for course.
Does root flare help fight highly barberchair prone trees splitting?
I've beat over so many rotten trees with a percentage hinge and wedges. Somehow it always seems to work.
It bet it would be informative, Daniel, if you can get the chance some way or another.
I hope nobody takes anything I write personally... I AM just trying to have some fun... not directing anything at anybody...
That said I do think it would be better for the industry to talk about hinge width in terms of inches, completely independent of percentage of diameter...
Your 3.5" is the heavy side. I typically know I can safely saw up a tree to the 10% range before much is going to happen. Pretty straight, balanced trees. I also find the 5 percent range to be the end thickness when the tree commits. If it hasn't committed by 5 percent I rarely cut more till I know I've got it in lead.I was wondering about the hinge thickness equation on a 36" dia. ash tree I cut recently. My gut instinct was to thin the hinge a bit more, but it was already at or under the 3 to 3.5" thickness that the 10% rule would dictate. I am quite interested in that conversation.
Your 3.5" is the heavy side. I typically know I can safely saw up a tree to the 10% range before much is going to happen. Pretty straight, balanced trees. I also find the 5 percent range to be the end thickness when the tree commits. If it hasn't committed by 5 percent I rarely cut more till I know I've got it in lead.
Seems like apprenticeship would do well for the industry.