first lowering device Qs

[Spellfeller]

While welding is something I would love to get into, my first project will NOT be something that could cause serious injury if it fails!

I'm thinking some of those yard animals made of rebar and bolts, maybe...?

 

[Tree09]

You will not be quickly releasing the load on any rigging device, and there is no need to either. As long as you aren't more than 90 degrees to the finished lay of the tree, you are fine. You can wrap the rope around a trunk to hold it, after tensioning it too. A friction device is handy, don't get me wrong, but you don't need one imo.

 

[Spellfeller]

Thanks, Kyle. Below is the strategy. (Jepson says to release the holding line as soon as the tree is committed to the lay.) I think I'll have to do that, since there are other trees in the way--unlike the illustration--that will bind the line if I don't release it.

I hear you on the wraps, but I'm working alone (aside from someone to crank on the Maasdam). Does that change your advice or would a couple of tucks a la cow hitch/timber hitch work too?

 

[Tree09]

Literally just wrap the rope around the trunk. The porta wrap is literally named from the practice of wrapping the rope around a tree, which is called taking trunk wraps. Doing it over and over again all day long while lowering limbs is a giant pain in the ass, so that's why the porta wrap exists in the first place. For dropping a tree with one cut, it will work fine, and save you money that you don't need to spend yet. If you were cutting trees for hire, then by all means buy one, but you don't need one because you saw a picture in a book. Here is a video about trunk wraps that should explain the extreme ease of the concept.
https://youtu.be/3TjNiGsagXc

On further examination of the picture you posted, it actually even lists trunk wraps lol

Also, if you are working alone, who will be releasing the side guy, or pulling the tree over?

 

[Marc-Antoine]

would a couple of tucks a la cow hitch/timber hitch work too?

Avoid at all cost to overlap the tucks, you will be stuck because what you get is actually close to be a knot. The wrap(s) must run freely. Same on the portawrap or other friction device.
If you have to make a crossing over, due to crotch configuration and rope's path (you can wrap the rope at the crotch itself to control it by your own), be sure to put the tail over the loaded part, not the opposite. It takes some thinking when the crotch is under the cut.

 

[Spellfeller]

Literally just wrap the rope around the trunk. SNIP

On further examination of the picture you posted, it actually even lists trunk wraps lol

Was trying to avoid this, since I've read it can damage the bark. Not so much?

Avoid at all cost to overlap the tucks, you will be stuck because what you get is actually close to be a knot. The wrap(s) must run freely. Same on the portawrap or other friction device.

Got it!

If you have to make a crossing over, due to crotch configuration and rope's path (you can wrap the rope at the crotch itself to control it by your own), be sure to put the tail over the loaded part, not the opposite. It takes some thinking when the crotch is under the cut.

Don't got it.

 

[Tree09]

It can, but what kind of tree is it? You can also put carpet or something for it to ride on, maybe tied down with a rachet strap. You can also do a munter hitch on a large shackle on a strap... there are many ways to do this without buying a lowering device for 10 seconds. I'm just trying to save you money that you don't need to spend to drop a couple of trees.

 

[DMc]

Let me give a counterpoint to Kyle's advice. All the friction brakes you are looking at are under $200 and will last you a lifetime. They have many uses in the world of ropes. One of the reasons for the popularity of friction brakes is repeatability and consistency. While trunk wraps work and are free they also take a great deal of understanding and experience to get consistent results.

The job you are contemplating could, theoretically, be done by one person with the right tools. Set your pull line with whatever force multiplier you are using and then set your check line, but through a block at the base of the tree that is the right side angle, to a friction brake anchored to the same tree as your force multiplier.


Set like that, you could pre-tension all lines, make the face cut and set your over-sized hinge, walk over to the tree that has your force multiplier and the friction brake. Pull the tree and then release the check-line once it is committed all from that same spot. Not a simple task, but do-able.

Whatever you decide, don't make that tree the first time for testing something new. Practice a few times on less critical stuff until you have some level of skill with what you are using.

 

[Tree09]

Very true, and once you start learning rigging and rope work, the more you use it in day to day life. My only point was if you are only taking down a handful of trees, you don't need the entire wesspur catalogue to do so. When i first started, it was for around the house and for fun, and i bought a bunch of stuff that i don't really use all that much. Just trying to show that you can do just about anything with a few ropes, a saddle, flipline, and occasionally spurs.

 

[stig]

Which most of us oldtimers did, before all the fancy stuff came on the market.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Just gimme my rope and my 200!

 

[Tim_B.]

They were never meant to be better. Just more robust and a lot less expensive.

To the original poster. Unless your doing a ton of technical rigging over the course of a year, a GRCS, HOBBS or Stein 3000 series is overkill and over-spending for a first lowering device. Extra large Portawrap or Stein 2000 would be my advice. Both are simple, user friendly, strong as hell and easy to store. Winching/ lifting is great and all....but never lose site of the fact that you want to send the tree down, not up....and in manegable sizes.

Having used both, if I had it to do over again I would get the RC2000 over the large Port-a-Warp. The Port-a Wrap is a good tool for sure and will get the job done but the changes that Reg made on the RC2000 design make it a pleasure to use. It has the combined attributes of both the porty and a strap on bollard. It is worth the little bit more that it cost.

Hey, Jeff! Here's a third vote for the Stein RC2000, if you decide to go the route of spending the money on the gear, not to dismiss Kyle's suggestions. I mention the RC2000 because it is not much more money, I don't think, than the RC1000. I think the RC2000 has close to twice the load capacity of the RC1000, and will accept a rope that is at least one size larger also, if I'm not mistaken.

The big advantage of the Stein lowering devices, in my mind, is the ability to hang the devices up by a girth hitched webbing strap, or similar, before actually cinching it down and setting your rope around them. Once the device is hanging, the weight of it is no longer a consideration, in my mind. The RC2000 is a pretty big device for sure, and it was almost shocking for this newbie to see when I first laid my eyes and hands on it.

My main point here is that I think you should buy the larger Stein unit over the smaller one, if you do buy one, just so you only have to buy one time. It has a bigger bollard on it that is probably easier on every rope you will ever run on it, it will handle bigger loads and bigger ropes. I'm repeating myself now, but the idea I'm trying to convey is buy big, buy once. The Stein 2000 is a work of art, and Reg should really be proud to have it available in the marketplace.

Tim

 

[Spellfeller]

... there are many ways to do this without buying a lowering device for 10 seconds. I'm just trying to save you money that you don't need to spend to drop a couple of trees.

I appreciate that truly. I'm trying to do this as frugally as possible too!

The job you are contemplating could, theoretically, be done by one person with the right tools. Set your pull line with whatever force multiplier you are using and then set your check line, but through a block at the base of the tree that is the right side angle, to a friction brake anchored to the same tree as your force multiplier.

Set like that, you could pre-tension all lines, make the face cut and set your over-sized hinge, walk over to the tree that has your force multiplier and the friction brake. Pull the tree and then release the check-line once it is committed all from that same spot. Not a simple task, but do-able.

Really interesting, DM. I would need a 200' holding line and a redirect at minimum, but this gives me food for thought.
Definitely not one of the cheaper options, but maybe a safer one?

 

[pantheraba]

It lets you be in charge of all the moving parts...could be easy to miscommunicate with 2 other folks on the operation. But tedious...trade-offs.

 

[pantheraba]

Here's where I used a redirect on the pull line because there wasn't enough room to pull straight without it (neighbor's fence/yard was too close). I used a hoist for my puller. This was a one man operation...tighten, cut, walk out, tighten more, walk back, cut, wash, rinse, repeat.

I remember it went about 10 degrees right of where I wanted...I had more hinge holding on the right apparently and it pulled it that way. 'Twas pretty dead, too. Might should not have gutted the hinge so I would have had better/more holding wood to pull against.

 

[Spellfeller]

Nice, Gary! What hardware have you got going there?

And was your setup something like this? (image from another forum...shh)

 

[treebilly]

I just love MA and rigging in general. One would be amazed at what a chipper winch can do when a 30k lb bucket truck is buried to the axles. With enough blocks I can get it out with fishing line.

 

[Altissimus]

Just gimme my rope and my 200!

...yep , I tell my customers that a pull tree is for all the marbles. It does take judgement as Ger said which ones NOT to pull. Even w the Tirfor and a block (10 Tons) I play a cautious game w head leaner's , defects in the trunk or a ridiculous long hard pull I will at least take the top and limbs off first.

 

[pantheraba]

Nice, Gary! What hardware have you got going there?

And was your setup something like this? (image from another forum...shh)

View attachment 86798

Yep...looks like what I did...used CMI block and tenex sling. Basic utility hoist from our warehouse for a pull.

 

[Raj]

Cargo strap and an aluminum rim!

 

[flushcut]

I've heard Dubbs have the smoothest friction.

 

[theTreeSpyder]

Not politically correct;
but i always found a truck loaded with weight on good ground to be fair and convenient pull source (rope to truck frame).
.
i still like a low re-direct even on a straight run for muscling stronger hinge, or pulling backlean forward etc. so as truck goes forward don't lose traction from upward lift angle on truck at higher tension and worse angle for every inch forward.
Pulleys to give several times truck pull very nice.

i think in drawing re-direct tree must kinda serve past target tree for turn.
.
i like over the top lacing to low Bowline, leaves knot on top, easy to find not buried in head,i like the way it pulls better too.
.
Also like truck as mule to drag; especially uphill.
Sometimes instead of setting 2:1 power pull by truck to pull, have made 1:2 pulley system so could pull loads 100' up hill with 50' of truck run
>>half as strong pull on load; but moves 2x speed of truck pull for total truck pull 50' to pull load 100'.
Rope, pulley, truck, convenient anchors and brain real life savers on hand dragging where equipment can't go etc.