woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
"and a Dodge."...
FELLING QUESTION - HOLLOW SYCAMORE
- Thread starter Limbrat
- Start date
- Replies 90
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flushcut
TreeHouser
Notch it bore the back cut leave a holding strap and pull is what I would do.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
However it's cut up. It doesn't look to me like it needs a pull line?
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Me too Squish, I doubt i'd want any more pressure on that tree
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
DON'T MAKE US COME OUT THERE......!!
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Have you finished yet?
flushcut
TreeHouser
1/2" insurance is cheap
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
AMEN
Raj
TreeHouser
I don't think I would live without my maasdam puller, best purchase I've made, and I absolutely agree it's cheap insurance. I've not cut anything down that rough shape in such an area, but I've had situations that I wasn't sure if pulling on a high portion would break off a major section of trunk, so I had one end of a rope rigged high and the other end rigged lower, and connected the pull rope from the maasdam with a pulley on the rope rigged to the tree......
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Raj
TreeHouser
Yup! I don't have the solution, just an idea, stopper knots could be tied, but my thinking for the job I had was to distribute the pull, not saying it would work for the OP.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
I like the idea of distributing the pull in a suspect tree. Thanks for the idea.
Seems that pulling with two lines, one high, one middle of tree would add that margin of safety in case the top broke out.
(not for every tree obviously)
Seems that pulling with two lines, one high, one middle of tree would add that margin of safety in case the top broke out.
(not for every tree obviously)
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
We've done that on a tree that the top was suspect and could possibly break on the pull. Yet we felt a lower line might be too low for the leverage again the lean. Just in case kind of thought. Should all fail, tree should go sideways worst case.
Why are you all ( almost all) so set on pulling that tree?
Why pull something that has a natural lean in the direction you want it to go?
Complete waste of time IMO, but that may just be the bushel faller part of me speaking
I agree on the shallow face, on a tree like that I'd try to make the face small enough that I keep as much sound wood as possible in the corners, even if that means barely nibbling through the rind of sound wood in the middle.
Why pull something that has a natural lean in the direction you want it to go?
Complete waste of time IMO, but that may just be the bushel faller part of me speaking
I agree on the shallow face, on a tree like that I'd try to make the face small enough that I keep as much sound wood as possible in the corners, even if that means barely nibbling through the rind of sound wood in the middle.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
First post reads like it leans and the goose pen faces the power lines Stig. Assuming that, one would be pulling against the lean. Unless I read it wrong.
I just looked at the picture and it sure looks as it leans away from the lines, with all that limb weight on that side.
But...........but.......but........pictures can, as we all know, be decieving, so maybe I spoke out of turn.
But...........but.......but........pictures can, as we all know, be decieving, so maybe I spoke out of turn.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Weight should help it away from the lines.. but 
Like you said.. arm chair diffy than being there.
Like you said.. arm chair diffy than being there.
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
Right, especially with a right-pedal power pull.
I like the maasdam, meant to be used with three-strand, which has a stretch to it, which can store energy differently than a more static, totally static rope.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
My concern is that the wood could crumble under the load at the hinge on one side if it's too thin, so you'd loose the tree side way.
You can bore cut vertically just at the place you want the notch's apex, as for a box cut. You get the thickness and the quality of the wood. Then an other vertical bore cut at the back of the hinge to be sure. If the front one is good but not the back one, say the front is the back and bore an other one more in front, putting the intended hinge in a sounder wood.
It's quick to do, you get a good idea of the wood, without compromising the tree's stability, well, not really more than it is actually.
You can bore cut vertically just at the place you want the notch's apex, as for a box cut. You get the thickness and the quality of the wood. Then an other vertical bore cut at the back of the hinge to be sure. If the front one is good but not the back one, say the front is the back and bore an other one more in front, putting the intended hinge in a sounder wood.
It's quick to do, you get a good idea of the wood, without compromising the tree's stability, well, not really more than it is actually.
Raj
TreeHouser
I don't know about anyone else, but I'm curious how things turned out.....
pantheraba
More biners!!!
hahaha...me, too...I keep checking this thread to see IF HE CUT IT DOWN YET!!!!
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Ha.
old irish
TreeHouser
Don't agonize over it too much. I remember my partner and I falling a huge Redwood "Goosepen" After we got the face in it we fell it with a 125 Mac. standing inside the tree! Don't remember exactly why, must have been a "good" reason" or just young foolishness? After it went over we were both hacking and coughing from the fumes. Our ears were totally deaf.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Now that's a story! Wow!
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
Ya, quite a story.
