Felling/gunning sights

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  • #27
For the next guy:

@CurSedVoyce mentions in the end about flipping the saw....yeah...once I checked mine with a level, all the sights (clutch cover and starter cover) and handles (Jonsered handles are supposed to be 90deg) did not agree...still contemplating on a fix for that.

Parallax problems

Don't let me stop you! Go for it! :rockon:
www.masterblasterhome.com

I posted most of my vids from my recent felling trip on my YT. Overall, I was quite pleased. I had a blast and didn't miss any critical shots (none had value targets, only trees and wire fence). Small trees were the hardest to hit with, and their light weight made them easy to get stuck. I tried some short bar double cutting combined with measuring from a stake in the lay, and nailed the shot, but it was a pain dancing around the tree. Nice to lug a lighter saw though.
 
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  • #28
I have only tried it once (on a crazy side leaning/limb weight tree), but @gf beranek mentions it in FGTW that tilting the face and back cuts will pull the tree to the high side. Fellow on another forum says he uses it regularly. Seems only experience would teach how much to use.


Doublecut below

 
With side lean, is it sufficient to just make the face cut the usual perpendicular to the tree rather than parallel to the ground, so it swings toward where it would land if it were upright? Seems to me like that solution would self correct the side lean problem in a simple way: just keep the hinge perpendicular to the tree.
 
Yes, that's what I do. I don't mind the horizontal, but most of the time perpendicular to the trunk's axis, or the average lean/ profile for the banana shapes or the like. In limbs and tops too. The limit is how long the hinge will hold to ensure the full swing. A brittle wood may fall short before the lay. A stringy one may go too far (for a top or a tree on a slope).
Once, I had to fell a side leaning pine between a laundry wires stand and an edge. I wasn't really sure it would hold that long, so I doubled the correction just in case: perpendicular to the trunk and the classic horizontal shifting of the aim by the amount of lean. Well, dumb move, each compensation worked nicely by their own. So my treee went twice as far as intended and ended on the edge !
 
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  • #33
We all know it’s not recommended to hang out at the stump but I just watched August Hunicke drop a pine in a big field right through a gate opening…he adjusted the hinge impressively late successfully. Shows how much difference a little change can make. I think some fallers swing until it’s where they want and then cut it loose. I should have on my last one, ha!

A visual for @Burnham

CB353D0B-EF3A-46BC-B45A-CBC176121406.jpeg
 
Thanks, I get it. Good method.

@davidwyby I think you have a gunning sight molded on the starter cover on that saw; just to the right of the level, running across the Jonsered label. It appears to be about parallel with the level, and thus the part of the handle the level is against.

But I wouldn't use the handle for gunning, because the handle begins to curve subtly towards the top of the saw...might be easy to get thrown off by that. I'd stick to the true gunning sight.
 
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davidwyby said:
A visual for @Burnham

View attachment 127274
Click to expand...
... to me the handle and gunning sight are different (though many times by design line right up), those few degrees off plumb or 90° could be for one or two reasons I can think of. Gunning sight is raised and sometimes painted line on both sides of the saw case ... (though I've never owned Jonsered's)
 
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You need a large t-square to mate against the curved bar. You don't cut with the bottom of the powerhead.

Aim with the gunning site like a sniper rifle, not blasting a shotgun from the hip. Get well behind the sight and down to its level ( arm's length maybe more), sighting as far away as possible.
 
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  • #41
SeanKroll said:
You need a large t-square to mate against the curved bar. You don't cut with the bottom of the powerhead.

Aim with the gunning site like a sniper rifle, not blasting a shotgun from the hip. Get well behind the sight and down to its level ( arm's length maybe more), sighting as far away as possible.
Click to expand...
I measured the center of the exposed bar, found center, and placed pins equally spaced on each side of center. Then placed my level on those pins. I run a machine and welding shop for a day job. ;-)

I am also pretty familiar with using sights on firearms. :-)

I used a carpenter’s square on the side of the bar to find that the top and is not perfectly 90° as it should be…but handle bars get bent.
 
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