Echo 2511t

Flippy caps don't seem to get much love, but I dig them. Quick and easy. I tend to overtorque everything, and the oil cap especially gives me issues on a standard cap. So easy to make too tight, and I have to use a tool to open it. I guess the obvious answer is "Don't tighten it so damned much!", but better safe than sorry. If a little is good, a lot is better, right?! :^D
 
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Flippys do fail. I had one reverse or something, so it lined up such that it was impossible to secure. Other times they lock in place, then just fall out on the way up.
 
If the inner part had turned, put the cap in place, hold it against the tank and "unscrew" it. That reset the part without getting oil on the fingers.

The itchy points for me :
- The o-ring uses to swell with ethanol gas and the flippy cap becomes as hard to put in than to take out. That could be an issue when the refill is done with the crew's jug.
- It seems that each model of chainsaw has a different angle to put the cap in. I have to figure it out each time I take an other saw.
 
Don't even waste yer money Sean, on porting that little pig. Just remove the muffler, retune the carb an run er till she breaks. The muffler does absolutely nothing for that saw in power gains. Same as the Stihl 193 (much my favorite "small saw," top-handle). I had a 2511, fer a little bit, and I thought it was super over-rated, and I'm a HUGE fan of the 355 with the exhaust deflector off.
 
Don't even waste yer money Sean, on porting that little pig. Just remove the muffler, retune the carb an run er till she breaks. The muffler does absolutely nothing for that saw in power gains. Same as the Stihl 193 (much my favorite "small saw," top-handle). I had a 2511, fer a little bit, and I thought it was super over-rated, and I'm a HUGE fan of the 355 with the exhaust deflector off.
You should really try one of Nutball's 2511's so much fun! And LIGHT so light so so light like a feather and becomes an extension of you body, Edward Chainsawhands.
 
In Ny that saw runs about $440 with tax ... A complete port job (complete disassembly/reassembly... intake and exhaust + transfers and piston mods and muffler mod) for $600 seems almost to good to be true ... I Know I wood never do it for that price even if the guy paid shipping both ways ! That’s ALOT of work to make $160 !:O
 
That’s quite the difference ... then again I live in NY where everything seems to cost 2x as much as everywhere else
 
I think I paid 420 or so. Not really looking to pay 50% again, maybe a bit of muff mod and carb adjustment then.

I love my 2511 so far, I'm mostly a pruning guy. It's stupid light and sooo nice to climb with
 
I've seen a few different muffler mods... What is the best option? 3/8 hole just through the outside metal, or a straight shot through both outside and inside layers? Thanks!
 
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