Echo 2511t

[Brock Mayo]

Thanks!

 

[Brock Mayo]

When you say third layer do you mean the backside of the muffler? I think I’ve seen a couple different types of 2511 mufflers... should it end up being a straight shot through?

 

[Nutball]

I've only seen the outer layer, thin inner layer, then the back side. Go through the first 2 layers basically. The middle layer is what restricts flow. I was just saying to be careful about punching through the back when breaking through the middle layer.

 

[Brock Mayo]

That's what I figured, thanks again!

 

[Jed]

That's about like the hole that I made in mine.

I didn't like that saw too much though. Let us know how you like yers.

 

[Brock Mayo]

So far it's been a bit rough. That has to be the worst new chain I've ever encountered, finally smoothed it out with a couple filings. Other than that, it didn't want to start very reliably the last time I used it. The weight is amazing though, and watching how people have them running on videos I'm still hopeful. Still planning on putting a narrow kerf bar on it if I can get it running right...

 

[lxskllr]

The stock chain is terrible on these. It gets better with filing, but you have to tough it out for awhile. I'm liking Stihl pm on it. Less grabby, but still cuts well.

 

[SeanKroll]

Way nicer with the Stihl 1/4".

I used one whole Echo chain, and part of another before switching. The oem Echo bar nose looked like it was splayed some.
Lit a fire under me.

 

[Nutball]

The stock chain needs the teeth filed with a steep angle (file high, not low in the gullet). Also the kickback reducing bumpers next to the depth gauges tends to make any kind of cutting with the tip (boring or burying in cross cut) extremely slow. It may also be the AV system Echo uses that makes them so bouncy. Higher torque and a couple thousand more rpm really helps smooth out the cut.

You can pull the tuning caps off with a wood screw if you do it right, but they have to be turned all the way rich before pulling out (hard to do without backing the wood screw out).

I find to start them, after full choke or when warm, flip the choke on, then back it off by 1/3 and without touching the throttle pull start it.

 

[Brock Mayo]

Great info! I was wondering how much of the chain issue was the slower chain speed...

 

[Mick!]

I cannot file those little chains so I just use a normal file (the one for a 200/201)
Seems to work just as well.

 

[flushcut]

That's about like the hole that I made in mine.

I didn't like that saw too much though. Let us know how you like yers.

Jed you really need a nutball modded one. I couldn't live without mine.

 

[Nutball]

I cannot file those little chains so I just use a normal file (the one for a 200/201)
Seems to work just as well.

I think they use the same file. 5/32 or your 4.something mm equivalent.

 

[Brock Mayo]

Yeah, I think that's what finally smoothed out my chain, the next bigger file size with a little less hook to the tooth.
I feel like I'm slowly getting all the info I need on mods (really appreciate everything) . Nutball, if you want to post a full start to finish mod video, I promise I will never modify saws for money, and certainly not anywhere near Tennessee

 

[Nutball]

Video host sites don't like me. YT kicked me off months ago, I realize now it may have been a mistake by some automated anti spam thing on their end, but too late now and I don't care. Then Vimeo kicked me off with my first video saying I broke their rules, when I had just looked through them. All I did was post the video of my 590 cutting a pine tree, then tried to link the video, which is allowed, but right when I linked it, they closed the account, and haven't responded to my email I sent a few weeks ago.

 

[flushcut]

Word of mouth is best any how.

 

[Brock Mayo]

Finally had a minute to get the saw back together. Seems way better just with the muffler modification. Going to borrow a tach next week, what are some numbers to aim for on the idle and hi rev? I've probably only ran about 8 tanks of gas so far...
Planning on getting a stihl narrow kerf bar and chain, I'm leaning toward 12 inches, but would like to hear if folks think it can pull a 14 inch chain with just the muffler mod? Thanks!

 

[Nutball]

Most of the gains are to be had from a muffler mod, like 20% more power, then another 10-20% from porting, and another 20% with some extreme mods. Ported it will run 1/4 .043 14" no problem, but it is a slow chain. Personally I'd stick with a 12" bar for 3/8 .043, and look to cut 10" max, but it will do more, it will just go through oil fast and get hot. That little saw was intended for little wood.

You will have to drill bar tensioner holes into a Stihl bar, and use a small drill or Dremel cutoff wheel or something to get oil from the relatively low oil slot up into the groove.

 

[Brock Mayo]

Really appreciate the help! When I fully mess this saw up, I'll send my next one to you

 

[Brock Mayo]

Well I finally ditched the stock bar/chain. I didn't go 1/4 pitch, but got a .043 gauge oregon bar and a stihl chain. Ran it yesterday on a ponderosa removal and it was sweet! Might have just been the soft wood... I think I can lean out the high end a bit more, what is a good number to shoot for with the tach? Echo manual says 12,700.
On a side note, when you switch from a longer pitch to shorter pitch (3/8 to 1/4) do you gain or loose chain speed, or is it just more teeth making smaller cuts?

 

[SeanKroll]

Sprocket circumference dictates chain speed.
8-driver sprockets are larger than 7-driver, in the same chain size.
More speed, less torque.

Narrower kerf = less wood to cut.

 

[Nutball]

The 8t 1/4 sprocket is a bit smaller than the 6t 3/8, so more torque, less speed, but more teeth per inch.

 

[Brock Mayo]

Makes sense, thanks guys. Anyone going higher than 12,700 on the high end?

 

[Nutball]

I think that's right for stock.

 

[flushcut]

FYI still going strong.