Basic system for tree ascent/descent

[Stumper]

Okay guys this is for Tim who PMed me some questions about a system to use for hunting and I don't have the pics hosted anywhere so I wanted to upload them so he can see what I'm trying to explain.
The first pic shows a simple Doubled rope technique set-up . The rope is tied to a biner with a long tail which is Tied with a Blake's hitch to the othe rleg of the line. The keychain 'biner serves as a "minder" for the hitch to advance it as you pull slack through.


Second pic has the minder 'biner moved over and prussiked onto the harness side of the line with a piece of cord and a foot ascender added. With nothing more than this you can ascend safely without ladder of strap on steps.

Third pic shows the system in descent mode-pUlling down on the top of the hitch will let you down.

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[tpcollins]

Thanks Stumper, now I understand. A lot of us bowhunters are switching from a traditional tree stand harness to a RC harness - and going from unattached until we tie in at the top of the stand to a lifeline that runs inline with the climbing sticks and we stay connected from when we leave the ground until we're back down.

On one hunting forum a question came up on the best friction knot to use. The prusik is everyone's favorite but I'm leaning towards the klemheist as I'm only interested in it gripping in the down or fall direction. Someone had suggested the Blake's hitch but I see that it appears more for ascending/descending with the two rope system and probably not the best as a friction knot in a fall arrest situation.

Here's how all my hang-on stands look with 11.4mm Assaultline as my lifeline and the 2nd pic shows my Beal dynamic lanyard setup. In a fall situation, I think this is a better option than what I've been using for the past 40 years. Thanks.

 

[Stumper]

Your system is great for going up secured and catching you if you slip. The only downside to a hitch on a single rope (and BTW most friction hitches are fine for holding you) is trying to descend if you do slip and can't get back onto some support. The hitches don't want to release under full body weight. With the doubled rope system each leg of rope has half your weight so the hitches can function as descenders. FWIW in your system I think your choice of Klemheist usually runs up the rope better/easier than a Prussik. A Valdotain Tress goes up even easier but the V.T. sometimes requires "tuning" to get it to slide up easily but grab reliably.

 

[gf beranek]

Good advice to pass on, Justin. Thank you.

There's many techniques used in the tree industry that other trades use as well, and yet the specifics and understanding of the techniques can vary widely in each trade.

I see it played out all the time in the fire, search, and rescue scenarios played out here on the coast. All of which rely primarily on the family of 'figure of 8' knots.

 

[lumberjack]

Thanks Stumper, now I understand. A lot of us bowhunters are switching from a traditional tree stand harness to a RC harness - and going from unattached until we tie in at the top of the stand to a lifeline that runs inline with the climbing sticks and we stay connected from when we leave the ground until we're back down.

On one hunting forum a question came up on the best friction knot to use. The prusik is everyone's favorite but I'm leaning towards the klemheist as I'm only interested in it gripping in the down or fall direction. Someone had suggested the Blake's hitch but I see that it appears more for ascending/descending with the two rope system and probably not the best as a friction knot in a fall arrest situation.

Here's how all my hang-on stands look with 11.4mm Assaultline as my lifeline and the 2nd pic shows my Beal dynamic lanyard setup. In a fall situation, I think this is a better option than what I've been using for the past 40 years. Thanks.

In your first picture, remember "Never Saddle a Dead Horse." The wire clamps are installed with the saddle (the part the nuts push against) is on the "dead" end of the wire. I doubt it matters in your application, but it's a good thing to know.

 

[Stumper]

Good catch Carl.

 

[tpcollins]

In your first picture, remember "Never Saddle a Dead Horse." The wire clamps are installed with the saddle (the part the nuts push against) is on the "dead" end of the wire. I doubt it matters in your application, but it's a good thing to know.

Actually the cable is secured with two tree clamps (saddles) - the second one is barely noticeable just inside the 1/2" screw link. How else should I have clamped the cable, should I add a couple more for insurance? Thanks.

 

[Stumper]

For proper clamping the saddle portion of the clamp is supposed to go on the "long side" . The U bolt should be compressing the cable with the "dead end". It will hold either way but maximum holding power is achieved with the clamp oriented as Carl (Lumberjack) was indicating. Two clamps are the minimum for securing a cable. Your set up seems adequate....but since I'm a rope guy I think it would be simpler to just tie your rope to the tree or tie your screwlink to the tree with a sling/piece of rope.

 

[tpcollins]

Thanks Stumper, so basically for best strength I should flip the clamps over.

Originally I was going to put the rope around the tree but when I was asking questions on this forum earlier this year, too many were against leaving the rope overnight in the tree - squirrels could chew on it. That's why all my stands have either 3/8" wire cable or 3/8" log chain with the screw link hanging from it. If a squirrel did chew on the rope, then it would be visible and I could fix it versus having a rope around the tree and be chewed on the backside where I couldn't see it.

Next time out I'll take a wrench and flip the clamps over - I might even add a third one for added safety. Thanks.


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Duh . . .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CggmpyFhiFA

 

[pantheraba]

I know for a fact that squirrels do chew on nylon rope left out. I had a tree house for my kids and had nylon mesh net in the windows to keep the kids from falling out. After awhile the squirrels were chewing holes in that cord the net was made of...no idea why but they did.

 

[Stumper]

Tim, That makes sense-trying to guard against hidden rope damage. My own preference is to leave a small cord in the tree and then pull up my dry undamaged rope using the small line. That way my expensive rope is never at risk from either animals or thieves.....and there isn't a large rope hanging down to attract attention.

 

[pantheraba]

Stumper has it...THIS I think is the best solution...get some cheap paracord, camo even, won't show up but you can find it....leave it in the tree and pull up your lifeline with it. You don't have to leave cables and clamps in the tree. I am sure some folks never retrieve those cable loops and the tree eventually grows and encapsulates the wire into the tree...not good.

Throwline, throwbag, some cheap paracord and you are Mr. Efficient, Economical and Ecological.

 

[tpcollins]

I re-saddled one of my "dead horses" tonight . . . and added an extra.

 

[MasterBlaster]

You're good to go.

 

[Stumper]