Arbormaster VS. Poision Ivy

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inbredJed said:
...It is much suppler, and stays that way longer even if it holds about a grand less. ...
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I always say, it doesn't make a difference how strong a climbing line is as long as it meets the 5,400 pound mark (just to keep the ANSI police happy). You'll never notice if your climbing line can hold 6,000 or 16,000 pounds. What matters is feel, knotability, weight, grippage, spliceability (the most important :) ), visibility, and....I dunno....what else?

CurSedVoyce said:
...I love my eye 2 eye prussics from Nick...
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LOVE IT!

TopNotch- I agree with what seems to be the consensus here: you have to at least try the skinny ropes and Blue Moon is a good intermediate step to see if it is for you or not. I climb on Blaze (in a few different colors) and I love it, but that's me. Either way- get it spliced with a tight eye!

My two favorite things about the 11mm lines is how light they are and how compact they are. I carry my gear in a gear bag and sometimes back pack and they space savings and weight savings are noticed IMMEDIATELY. I have to squeeze a little extra to grip the rope, but my back appreciates the pound or so that I'm NOT lugging around.

Burnham said:
...look at the nitril [Atlas gloves] for a really fine tuned level of dexterity joined with great grip and good wear characteristics...
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This is a whole 'nother thread- but I use the nitrile's a lot and my thought is GREAT for dexterity, remarkably tough considering how thin they are, slightly extra grip but nothing compared to the blue Atlas when it comes to stickiness.

love
nick
 
Yale Imori:

yale-imori-climbing-rope-orange-and-black-250.jpg
 
I used Icetail for hitch cord for about 18 months, worked just fine with my XTC Fire (1/2") Like Burnham said it's a looser weave cord, but it lasted very well, it looks kind of naff, funny colour and looks a bit sloppy but it does work just fine.

I swiched to OP last year for a change, and once it wore in a bit I really liked it, I'm staying with it and the old Ice will be for spares or gravitate to a lanyard hitch cord.
 
Nick: When you get dumb enough to rope out wood on your climb-line, you'll begin to appreciate the extra grand. I promise.:|:
 
Ha, good one. But if you think about it, the lowest SWL on a climb line is 540 lbs, and I doubt you are roping out pieces that heavy, so perhaps the weaker ropes are prob. still fine for a little roping.
 
I don't worry about the simple loading of a climb line like that...it's the bang/pinch/rub wear I will not stand for. Sorry to be a stick-in-the-mud, but that's just plain lazy and poor workmanship to mix your lifeline in with your rigging. Haul tools into the tree, fine...rig on it, no way.
 
I've "rigged" with mine many times here and there over the years, doubt I ever put more than 50 lbs on it.
 
I climbed on that stuff for years, before some of the newer, high melting point, stuff showed up.

No problem, just don't zip out of the tree too fast.

( I use a figure 8 for that anyway, unless it is a small tree)
 
Yeah- you'll be fine with tenex as a hitch cord.

It's made of the same stuff as the climbing rope is made of and people understand to do a controlled decent when using a blakes. (granted, in a tenex eye eye, you have thinner rope, so wear is more concentrated...)

You'll be alright.
 
Burnham: The Fir removal guys around here (my particular office) regularly take off the limbs (when working off spurs and flipline) by passing the climbline over the next highest limb, tying it to the limb to be removed, and then zapping the limb one handed while the other controls the descent of the limb on the line. The lines get nasty as heck with pitch, but it's just the way things are done.

Personally, I take some consolation--this filtered through an inbred intellect, mind you!--that we're sort of beating the system on the old "cycles to failure" thing. The inbred reasoning works like this: Cycles to failure is a Scientifically verified phenomenon, so, sooner or later, that rope is gonna break. Hypothesis: Why not have it break on a 450 lb chunk of wood with a nasty shock load, (which is fare more likely) instead of a 160 lb inbred.:|:

O.k. o.k... I'll admit: there's a few little holes in the theory. Hopefully one of us won't fall through the holes. :O
 
Man, I'd think getting your climb lines all nasty with pitch would be reason enough to quit using your rope that way. I hate the irregular response you get from your hitch when the rope has pitchy spots on it.
 
That's the interesting thing B. The trick is to keep a nice, newish prussic chord whose length you can alter just the slightest amount by simply spinning the thing up. I get the stuff in bulk, and just run Fisherman's knots for a V.T. so that I don't have to sweat the price. Then you take few enough wraps so that It'll still slide even with all the pitch. Then, if you climb in Maple or whatever for a few hours in dry conditions, it'll get too slippery, so you just spin the thing up to shorten er up. Presto: the V.T. grips like grippy-gloves again.;)
 
OK, maybe if the rope is consistently pitchy over it's whole length...but it never would be. So the response is inconsistent, no matter what you do with modifying how you tie the hitch. That's just nuts, Jed. Well, it is to me. If it works for you, go for it.
 
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Burnham said:
That's just nuts, Jed. Well, it is to me. If it works for you, go for it.
Click to expand...
:lol::lol::lol:

I ended up with the Tenex because the Ice was said to be too limp and consequently grippy. Bodean said Tenex works for him and its a little fatter so I assume the hitch is easier to manipulate; I'll keep an eye on the hitch glazing. Speaking of that, When do you finally throw it away from glazing too much. The Hitch cord I'm currently using now was from West Marine. Forget what the line was but I think it was made by New England and it was 8mm, red black and white. It has some glazing on it. Thanks again for everyone's input.
 
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