anyone using spliced hitch cord?

I thought further about this.. just for chatting sake, objectively…. I like them sewn eyes because easy to inspect, I would think one would be un tying the eye knots every climb to inspect…. Just saying humans/employees are fallible and 2 less knots are 2 less things to deal with…. I’m speaking as a clipboard arborist. :)
 
I mostly use a loop, and that stays tied. The knots aren't really in play as far as load goes. I haven't really settled into a double ended hitch yet, so they're usually tied as needed. Can inspect on retie. I guess they could be tied wrong, but you'd almost have to try.
 
I splice my own Icetail prussics. (Locked Brummels). As has been stated, length is difficult to get precise. I run 4 or 5 wraps, depending on how it turns out.
 
I have started using my retired hitch cords to install a fake Alpine butterfly in a transport tightening system.. some call it a z rig. When I want to do a tightening system I would always tie a butterfly and then put a carabiner in it and run the pull line back through the carabiner to tighten the load line. I started taking leftover hitches that I had retired but didn't throw away ... eye-eye hitches and instead of tying a butterfly, I wrap the hitches into a prussic and I can adjust it wherever I might need the Alpine butterfly. It's quick, easy, and gets good use out of hitches that I don't use for life support anymore. Makes sense?

Gary, look up the carters hitch or truckers hitches. They pretty much describe what you are doing without any additional equipment or cord.
 
But not nearly as easy to reposition as needed.

I do as Gary does, but using a tied prussik loop instead.

Like Dr. B...I have started also taking short hanks of rope that seem useless...maybe 12" to 24" long...not usually much use for them. I have them in various size loops and cord diameters....some in para cord/shroud line and some in climbing line grade rope. I choose the loop size and strength as needed for the job....install them as a prussic on a rope and they are super quick to adjust.

I use the overhand follow thru for the knot:

 
Quick and easy to tie...holds well...has worked well for me. I don't worry about untying it...these small hanks were disposable before; now they have a dedicated purpose.

Here is what I have for a quick and easy in my tree trailer. The large circling line (12 feet) is set up for quick use to tie down things on the trailer...or to secure large items (refrigerator-size boxes) to a hand truck. If anyone knows what kind of rope that large white one with red traces in it is...I would like to know. It has a soft hand, very nice to work with. I appropriated it from a utility site...the power guys had about 30 feet of it securing a wire tensioning cable (maybe 1/4", not real big) out of the way so a pole could be replaced. It got broken during a storm across the street from me. I eyed that rope for at least a week...seems it was a junk rope to them...way overkill. I took some "stupid" rope...yellow poly line that I have...and substituted it for the nice white/red rope. I told myself it's not stealing but giving that poor abandoned good rope a useful life. I remember at Katrina seeing about 600 feet of similarly abandoned rope...went from one huge tree pile to the next. I cut out the parts between the piles...very similar to Tenex, yellow. It was abandoned...until I got there.

Anyway....I didn't think this nice white rope deserved to be abandoned to the elements...my rationale. If anybody reading this is a priest, I request absolution due to confession.

rope loops  (2).jpg rope loops  (1).jpg
 
I pickup pulltape from jobs. All shorts, but the stuff's amazingly handy, and has a supernatural ability of shedding knots. As long as you tie it good and maintain tension, it holds pretty well, but let in slack, and it comes right apart. Not so useful for treework I don't think, but good for temporary tiedowns.

For my non climbing prusik loops, I usually use a single fisherman. If the rope were especially slippery, or the load more critical I'd go with a double, but I haven't had the need, That overhand follow through's new to me. Kinda bulky, but it's an attractive knot.
 
Gary has offered a good loop tie knot, for sure...but I prefer the double fisherman's knot, myself.

Gary's follow-through is the knot I use for making a webbing loop...called a water knot in the lexicon. I actually prefer the version called the beer knot, when I have the time and inclination to do so. It's just a cleaner finish, otherwise no better.
 
But not nearly as easy to reposition as needed.

I do as Gary does, but using a tied prussik loop instead.

I think that depends on the version you do.
All illustrations show them using a slip not or alpine. I was shown the old school way by my first boss and have used it hundreds of times.

You don’t tie any knots and just twist the rope to make a secure loop when under tension. They can be positioned anywhere midline and come out very easily.
 
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one technique I use if I need to connect the end of a line back to itself around an object, and dont want to side load biner, tie a munter hitch and clip the biner thru it, under tension it will never move
 
Gary has offered a good loop tie knot, for sure...but I prefer the double fisherman's knot, myself.

Gary's follow-through is the knot I use for making a webbing loop...called a water knot in the lexicon. I actually prefer the version called the beer knot, when I have the time and inclination to do so. It's just a cleaner finish, otherwise no better.
the beer knot its used for tube strap right?
 
I think that depends on the version you do.
All illustrations show them using a slip not or alpine. I was shown the old school way by my first boss and have used it hundreds of times.

You don’t tie any knots and just twist the rope to make a secure loop when under tension. They can be positioned anywhere midline and come out very easily.
I'm sitting at work scrolling through the pdf Spyder posted, and ran across this(fig 13)...

TruckersHitch.jpg

Is this what you were talking about?
 
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