advice on falling downhill, no rope

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murphy4trees

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I looked at a snag in the woods. On hill, walk in access only... It looks like it has a bit of front lean, but its got a questionable back bend in the trunk and I don't have a very god eye for this as I almost always rope a tree anyway. Thinking I could either cut a deep notch to help cutting a lean into it, and count on the front lean. OR I could cut a conventional depth notch and use wedges to pound it over. Wondering what the west coast fallers think about the pros and cons of each.. here's a pic of the tree. hard to judge lean from a photo so I didn't even bother adding a pic of the top. Its also on a fairly steep slope which is rare around here. Escape is going to be slow, and there is a swimming pool and filter system uphill and to one side, but nothing else of value in the potential DZ..
Right now I AM tending to think cutting a notch 2/3 the depth and tripping it with the back cut would be the easiest way to go. If it goes off the lay it could hang up which I would rather not deal with.
Your thoughts are appreciated...
 

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In my experience trees that have corrected their back lean to the point where it is no longer obvious where the favor lies have over-corrected, and will sit back on the back cut if faced toward the original lean.

If they twist back its usually to the point where they'll go that way.

I'd figure out a way to set a line. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
 
Any reason to buy a Tirfor puller is a good one. Some on eBay currently, used is ok as they are tough, as long as not appearing much beat up. Rebuilding is a tedious chore, lots of small parts. That Tractel cable is pricey too when new, but without kinks or anything is cool.
 
I run solo, so I go with Sean's post 100% of the time in residential areas. Pull with a maasdam. If I'm in rural areas, depending on conditions I'll just wedge it over. I think Stephen said ages ago he uses old plastic cutting boards for stacking, to avoid flying wedges. That trick works great for me. Depending on the tree I'll bore a pocket 1-2 inch above a wedge that's bottomed out on me and add further lift with a wedge in the pocket.
 
Pull it. I would not wedge it because the shock of the wedge pounding might break something above. But You are there and I am here I find it hard to give advise via the internet.
 
Seems like a tree like that can be easily done by yourself if you have something down below to attach a block to and then run your pull line back to an attachment point with puller next to where you are cutting. Easy to see how things develop. As Jerry pointed out in his book, when tight lining by yourself, there are no communication problems.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
flushcut said:
Pull it. I would not wedge it because the shock of the wedge pounding might break something above. But You are there and I am here I find it hard to give advise via the internet.
Click to expand...

That thought did occur to me... I'd rather not pull, but it may come down to that.. I actually didn;t even get the job yet so might be a purely academic issue..


Thanks for all the input.
 
Beside the shocks with the wedges, an other risk is to find a funky wood unable to hold the pressure of the wedge and just crumble when you hammer it, so you get zero lift power. Breaking the hinge is a concern too, as this tree seems in a really poor shape.

I'd go with the Maasdam. It would be enough if you aren't sure of the favor of the tree. And it's more fun than the Tirfor to walk with to the job and to set in place.
 
What about just pulling it over with multiple lines and no cutting? A couple of stay lines and a pull line.
 
A deep notch in a punky tree is a bad idea. Wedging won't work either. Rope pull seems like your best bet or a domino fall.
 
Rope high, shake hard with rope remotely, evaluate solidness of what don't fall.
After that probably look for hi leverage rope, and then lower safety pulling from lower/more solid.
.
If can't muscle over, have to cut.
Small face, shallow back cut, try to snap off when not near.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
It's oak..
they can look pretty bad on the outside and only have an inch or two of punky wood... I've seen red oak heartwood hinge pretty well 5+ years after death... this looks like chestnut oak which is a lot less stable to begin with and doesn;t hold up as well over time, so its a variable to consider.. I like to rope almost every tree, and put a machine on the rope to allow me to cut and leave the base of the tree and call for the pull when there is no one in the DZ... Setting ropes and blocks and pulling by hand with MA or a come-a-long on this steep terrain is not my idea of a good time, but it may come to that..

Will let you know.
 
Red oak you say. Ok sap wood is gone top is rotted down to probably 2-3" tips in my experience wedging should be fine as long as the trunk/heartwood is sound. Frost cracks can mess things up. I would pull it personally two guys one cutting one at the pull i.e. GRCS or masdam with block and tackle or a machine but you said the ground is steep maybe a long rope and redirects.
 
You got that Murph! Put up the video already! Don't forget to shout out to tree house in your narrative;)
 
Pull it... Can't be hard to find some place for a non-isolated pull-line with a base-tie.

A snag is the last one to want to pound over with uncertain lean. Get away from the stump, as you normally plan to.

A 2:1 pulling on a 3:1 makes a 6:1 with three small pullies, a couple hitch cords and biner, and is light.
 
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