1/4" pitch
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HolmenTree
Banned
Yep and like I said rim sprockets too.
Nutball
TreeHouser
They need a .043 gauge with tooth size between what's on .050, and Stihl's super small .043. Those baby teeth are just too small to be useful, and require another size file (1/8"). So, I'm actually not a big fan of it, other than the smooth cutting for saws with jumpy AV, or for delicate trimming.
Don’t have experience with 1/4 (yet) but on monkey beaver.com you can buy conversion kits and replacement chain loops in the panther brand. I think it’s mostly sold in Canada but they ship to all US with no issue. Was thinking about doing it on my echo 355t but I may leave it alone and just buy a little 2511t and convert that one
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Rarely do i pull out a 193t or 200t.
Nutball is reputed to build ripper 2511t's!!
Nutball is reputed to build ripper 2511t's!!
Ran my new dcs-2500t the other day with the 1/4in conversion and OMG 🤤. Had to order the sprocket from the UK (not available in US yet) and got the panther bar and chains from monkey beaver. Got the 1/8 files and haven’t had to sharpen it yet. My only complaint about the 2500 had been that it cuts so well that the discharge chute couldn’t keep up with the 3/8lp chain on sappy wood (a lot of that around here). Changed over to the 1/4 pitch and now there is less wood being cut so no longer an issue. Seems like the battery has been holding a charge better and better each time I use it to 0% and recharge it. Day one I only got through half of limbing a tree for removal. The job I did this last week I limbed up 3 trees on just one battery, came down swapped batteries and was ready to go. Can’t wait to really test the 1/4 pitch but on 2500/2511 i can see why it is so favored.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Matt, try the Stihl 1/4 pitch chain. It holds an edge for days. You may think it's expensive but it lasts twice as long as the Oregon chain.
SkwerI
Treehouser
It is a safety chain but it doesn't act like one. Still easy to keep the rakers filed as the tooth gets shorter. Here's a pic from Stihl's website.
www.stihl.com
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Nutball
TreeHouser
Archer has a copy of it, but without the bumpers, so it would be considered yellow chain.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
With the tiny nose radius on the 1/4 bar, the kickback is way less dangerous compared to the other ones. There's still one but lighter, you get a better and easier control on the saw, even to bore in tight crotch for prunning. That's what I love with the ms150T.
I haven’t got to bore cut yet with my 1/4in bar yet. I’ve been curious as to how that would act. Normally all of my bore cuts are done when felling trees, not up in the canopy. When would a bore cut on such a small saw be beneficial?
I found the archer and the stihl chains on Amazon. I recently heard that the panther chains are great when they are new but don’t take a new edge as well when you go to sharpen them. If that’s true I’ll be burning through my three loops of them pretty quickly and will have to give those other brands a try
I found the archer and the stihl chains on Amazon. I recently heard that the panther chains are great when they are new but don’t take a new edge as well when you go to sharpen them. If that’s true I’ll be burning through my three loops of them pretty quickly and will have to give those other brands a try
SkwerI
Treehouser
I ran the Stihl MS150TC as my main bucket saws the last 3-4 years in business. That was my first exposure to the 1/4" chains and they held up surprisingly well. Took a couple tries to get the hang of sharpening them but they don't need sharpening often if you don't use them on the ground.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Ditto.
Now just a heads up about those bar and chain combos and this would be a consideration bore cutting with the set up.
The nose sproket is the weak point of the bar. More often than not, when the sproket blows the bearings, it really fubars the little chain. The combo of the bar and chain costs me 60-70.00 at my local shops. So...
There's that. Bet I get 3 sharpenings before it blows. But the edge on that little chain holds nicely.
Now just a heads up about those bar and chain combos and this would be a consideration bore cutting with the set up.
The nose sproket is the weak point of the bar. More often than not, when the sproket blows the bearings, it really fubars the little chain. The combo of the bar and chain costs me 60-70.00 at my local shops. So...
There's that. Bet I get 3 sharpenings before it blows. But the edge on that little chain holds nicely.
SkwerI
Treehouser
I only used the Stihl bars. A couple blew out in less than 6 months, the rest I never had an issue with them.
flushcut
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #50
Four to six months on my 2511. I buy from Frawleys six at a time at 40 some bucks each it isn’t as painful. The cost is worth it considering how light the saw is and the production gained. Also how many thousands are made with that 40 dollar bar? Short answer is many.
