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1/4" pitch

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If I remember right you said that is a bar that will fit a 346?
 

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Bump it seems that 1/4” pitch is popular again.
 

Nutball

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They need a .043 gauge with tooth size between what's on .050, and Stihl's super small .043. Those baby teeth are just too small to be useful, and require another size file (1/8"). So, I'm actually not a big fan of it, other than the smooth cutting for saws with jumpy AV, or for delicate trimming.
 

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I figured I’d bump this thread for conversation.
 

TINYHULK

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Don’t have experience with 1/4 (yet) but on monkey beaver.com you can buy conversion kits and replacement chain loops in the panther brand. I think it’s mostly sold in Canada but they ship to all US with no issue. Was thinking about doing it on my echo 355t but I may leave it alone and just buy a little 2511t and convert that one
 

TINYHULK

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Ran my new dcs-2500t the other day with the 1/4in conversion and OMG 🤤. Had to order the sprocket from the UK (not available in US yet) and got the panther bar and chains from monkey beaver. Got the 1/8 files and haven’t had to sharpen it yet. My only complaint about the 2500 had been that it cuts so well that the discharge chute couldn’t keep up with the 3/8lp chain on sappy wood (a lot of that around here). Changed over to the 1/4 pitch and now there is less wood being cut so no longer an issue. Seems like the battery has been holding a charge better and better each time I use it to 0% and recharge it. Day one I only got through half of limbing a tree for removal. The job I did this last week I limbed up 3 trees on just one battery, came down swapped batteries and was ready to go. Can’t wait to really test the 1/4 pitch but on 2500/2511 i can see why it is so favored.
 

TINYHULK

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Does stihl have a yellow label 1/4 pitch or is the safety version just that good? Currently I have three loops of the panther chain
 

SkwerI

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It is a safety chain but it doesn't act like one. Still easy to keep the rakers filed as the tooth gets shorter. Here's a pic from Stihl's website.
 

TINYHULK

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I haven’t got to bore cut yet with my 1/4in bar yet. I’ve been curious as to how that would act. Normally all of my bore cuts are done when felling trees, not up in the canopy. When would a bore cut on such a small saw be beneficial?
I found the archer and the stihl chains on Amazon. I recently heard that the panther chains are great when they are new but don’t take a new edge as well when you go to sharpen them. If that’s true I’ll be burning through my three loops of them pretty quickly and will have to give those other brands a try
 

Tree09

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The same reasons you do on the ground, and then some. Large leaning limbs are just like large leaning trees, and they will barberchair just the same.
 

SkwerI

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I ran the Stihl MS150TC as my main bucket saws the last 3-4 years in business. That was my first exposure to the 1/4" chains and they held up surprisingly well. Took a couple tries to get the hang of sharpening them but they don't need sharpening often if you don't use them on the ground.
 

CurSedVoyce

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Ditto.
Now just a heads up about those bar and chain combos and this would be a consideration bore cutting with the set up.
The nose sproket is the weak point of the bar. More often than not, when the sproket blows the bearings, it really fubars the little chain. The combo of the bar and chain costs me 60-70.00 at my local shops. So...
There's that. Bet I get 3 sharpenings before it blows. But the edge on that little chain holds nicely.
 

stig

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Must be all the dead wood you cut.
I've yet to blow a sprocket on the 150.
They bar wears out first.
 

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With doing daily tree work how long does a 1/4in bar normally last?
Four to six months on my 2511. I buy from Frawleys six at a time at 40 some bucks each it isn’t as painful. The cost is worth it considering how light the saw is and the production gained. Also how many thousands are made with that 40 dollar bar? Short answer is many.
 
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