wood splitter

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that was my first thought steve.
fall guy, not sure i follow you?
 
I am not the most computor savy guy so I can not do picutres. I will try to clairify. If you weld in a flat plate 1" either side of the center web piece of your I beam that will greatly improve the ridgidty of the beam. You will probality have to cut back the ears on your pusher plate to allow the clearance you need. When you done you would have 3 web peices instead of one.
 
Can't "do" pictures? Just scroll down to Additional Options and click the "manage attachments" and a box will open for you to click "browse." It's self explanatory, for the most part.
 
SOTC,

#1 is what I think what fallguy is trying to relay.
It would stiffen the beam a lot from twisting.
I would use the # 2 side myself.
 

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Thank you Reddog you nailed it. I like you number 2 option. I would have the plate 1/2" in from the edge of the lip of the beam so the weld does not have to hold the stress. On the top side just put 4-5 spacer block pieces the but the plate up to.
 
Not to be pessimistic but boxing the beam will cost more than just getting a heavier beam to start with .

As far as structural strength is goes by the poundage per foot.For example a 10" wide flange I beam is 21 pounds per foot.Generally speaking if that same weight were in a 8 inch beam the strength for all intents is the same.

The strength is in the main web, the flanges keep the main in alignment.If the main is like 10 to 15 degrees out of alignment you loose something like 40-50 percent of the strutural integrity.

US steel put out a nice little booklet on figuring the "KIPS" loading on steel .It contains a lot of facts and figures .You have to take a lot of things into consideration.Points of max deflection,uniform loading and it goes on and on .

As an example my building has a shed type roof thing the last 30 feet of it.I used 2 1/2" rigid conduit for uprights.At 12 feet max point of oscillation that chunk of pipe will hold up 15,000 pounds.Combined with 24" bar joists at 5 feet apart that roof will sustain something like 150 to 200 tons uniform loading .

Well,that was just long winded conversation about using heavier steel .It's much easier to just put a heavy beam in the first place than do all the math and come up with the same results.
 
boxing the beam will cost more than just getting a heavier beam to start with .

Not if he is buying from the scrap yard like the rest of the steel in this project.

Why use a heavier beam when some designing could make something just as strong and lighter in weight.

My .02

Keep working on it Willie. You can learn a lot making things like this and testing them.:)
 
Not if he is buying from the scrap yard like the rest of the steel in this project.

Why use a heavier beam when some designing could make something just as strong and lighter in weight.

My .02

Keep working on it Willie. You can learn a lot making things like this and testing them.:)
Well ,do the math.You would have to either find some flat stock that would fit or torch out some that would fit to box the beam.Then you spend half a day welding it together. Welding rod,electricity,oxegon,actelene,time. You're spending a dollar to save a dime.

If it wasn't a couple of thousand miles I would send him a beam but that would be counter productive.A 40 dollar beam and 200 bucks to ship it.:O
 
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