What is a Good Way to Attach a Pull Line to a Trailer Hitch on a Pickup Truck?

[rfwoody]

What is the best way to attach a rope (pull line) to a pickup truck trailer hitch?

I have been just simply tying my rope to the ball of my trailer hitch.

However I am afraid I am losing some of the strength of the rope at the loop because of too small a radius of the hitch ball.

Is there something better (with a wider radius) for attaching a pull rope to a pickup truck trailer hitch, so a minimum of rope strength is lost?

Thanks!

Robert.

 

[sotc]

Most pickups don't weigh enough to pull hard enough to worry about breaking a typical bull rope we use imo. But you could attach a porty or build a bollard with an appropriate diameter if you like. I'd rather block purchase or find another way if you're that close to breaking lines

 

[rfwoody]

Most pickups don't weigh enough to pull hard enough to worry about breaking a typical bull rope we use imo. But you could attach a porty or build a bollard with an appropriate diameter if you like. I'd rather block purchase or find another way if you're that close to breaking lines

Thanks Willie.
Maybe I'm overthinking it.
For example, I have a 1/2" 3-strand rope with a Maasdam rope puller.
The average strength of the rope shows 5700 lbs
The Maasdam rope puller limit is 1500 lbs
But I understand with rope you take one-tenth to one-fifth of the average (or is it max) strength to get the working limit.
So that would limit my 1500 rope to 150 to 300 lbs ... (not very much or very practical it seems).
So I was trying to save every bit of strength I could.. e.g. In the radius of where I tied it.

 

[treebilly]

I think the 1500# on the masdem already has the safety factor in it.
I like willies thought of the bollard. I'd prefer one on the front of the truck also.

 

[SkwerI]

Tie a standing bowline in your pull rope, making a large loop. Hook the loop over the ball, wrapping it twice so it won't slip off.

Whenever I'm pulling with a machine I prefer running the line through a block attached to the base of a tree so that my pull angle is not lifting the back of the machine up off the ground. This can be especially important if you're pulling with something light like a pickup truck.

 

[rfwoody]

I think the 1500# on the masdem already has the safety factor in it.
I like willies thought of the bollard. I'd prefer one on the front of the truck also.

Thanks Rich.
A dedicated bollard may be expensive.. but I think I get Willie's idea about the portawrap... I could attach it to my trailer hitch ball with something more heavy duty, then affix my 1/2 rope to the portawrap.

 

[rfwoody]

Tie a standing bowline in your pull rope, making a large loop. Hook the loop over the ball, wrapping it twice so it won't slip off.

Whenever I'm pulling with a machine I prefer running the line through a block attached to the base of a tree so that my pull angle is not lifting the back of the machine up off the ground. This can be especially important if you're pulling with something light like a pickup truck.

Thanks Brian.

When you say "Whenever I'm pulling with a machine I prefer running the line through a block attached to the base of a tree so that my pull angle is not lifting the back of the machine up off the ground."

I know this will be a dumb question... but if the rope runs through the block at the *base* of the tree... how do you a good pull angle at the *top* of the tree?

 

[Mick!]

Tie a standing bowline in your pull rope, making a large loop. Hook the loop over the ball, wrapping it twice so it won't slip off.

Whenever I'm pulling with a machine I prefer running the line through a block attached to the base of a tree so that my pull angle is not lifting the back of the machine up off the ground. This can be especially important if you're pulling with something light like a pickup truck.

That's a really good tip, and like all the best ones, bleeding obvious!

 

[SeanKroll]

You can chain your rope-puller to the hitch.

Three strand is very dynamic. If you break it, it will rocket àpart. A piece of plywood to protect the operator of the puller is advisable for hard pulls. Ropes lose strength.

With anchoring the RP with knotted half- inch rope, as an anchor sling, you are maybe not making the rigging rope the weak link in your system. If your anchor sling breaks, the RP will be part of the rocket.

As Brian said, appropriate line angle, slightly upward to hitch if possible, is important.

 

[sotc]

Thanks Willie.
Maybe I'm overthinking it.
For example, I have a 1/2" 3-strand rope with a Maasdam rope puller.
The average strength of the rope shows 5700 lbs
The Maasdam rope puller limit is 1500 lbs
But I understand with rope you take one-tenth to one-fifth of the average (or is it max) strength to get the working limit.
So that would limit my 1500 rope to 150 to 300 lbs ... (not very much or very practical it seems).
So I was trying to save every bit of strength I could.. e.g. In the radius of where I tied it.

Order 150-200' of half inch stable braid. Might hurt at first but good equipment always does. 10k breaking.

 

[SkwerI]

Thanks Brian.

When you say "Whenever I'm pulling with a machine I prefer running the line through a block attached to the base of a tree so that my pull angle is not lifting the back of the machine up off the ground."

I know this will be a dumb question... but if the rope runs through the block at the *base* of the tree... how do you a good pull angle at the *top* of the tree?

Not the same tree.

 

[SeanKroll]

Rope pullers suggest three strand. Sometimes, getting the initial bite between braided rope and puller take more tension (pull tail while cranking).

 

[Altissimus]

Tirfor over Truck for me , between traction issues and communication , plus slop in the drive train I feel more confident w out rocking the work on the hinge.

 

[Mick!]

It (as does everything) depends, tirfors are sloooowwww.
Pick-ups, loaders etc give you speed of pull, that's a big plus.

 

[Altissimus]

Slow , Yes ...

 

[woodworkingboy]

Slow and steady and getting the tree where you want it to be before releasing it.

When pulling with a rope attached to my Tirfor cable hook, about as simple as it gets I use two wraps around the hook and then secure with a slip knot or two. Nothing official about it but it has always worked for me, never slipped or difficult to release. I don't see why it wouldn't work the same for a trailer hitch.

 

[stehansen]

I use a port-a-wrap to pull with a vehicle.

 

[sotc]

Probably hang the porty directly on the ball or small pintle

 

[SeanKroll]

Yes, and use a plastic bag over the hitch to prevent hitch grease from getting on your POW/ rope.

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Yup..... Porty...

 

[murphy4trees]

I've used a porty plenty when available. I had a monster shackle that I haven't seen for a while, given to me by a customer. I liked that for a connector to a pintle hitch because it was a little fatter, big enough to fit over the ball on a combination hitch (ball and pintle), and would never slip out of a loose pintle. So that was quick, easy and reliable..

When there is no pintle or porty and all you have is a ball hitch for half inch line, I use a doubled bowline, which is like a bowline on a bight, except it has three loops instead of two. Doubled bowline is a great midline knot, the only problem it can have is if one of the tree loops slips off the anchor, then it will lock up hard! And there is a tendency for one loop to slip off a ball hitch, when just laid over top of the ball, especially with a high angle of the pull line. So it's much better to drop the three loops over the side of the bar, using the ball to hold the top of the loops and the nut on the bottom of the ball to hold the bottom of the loops... ( a picture would be so much easier) Then to ensure that one of the loops doesn't slip off, use the tail of the rope to whip the loops with a couple of doubled half hitches.... Again picture would be better...

Fairly quick and easy, and 100% reliable, and will never lock up...

 

[flushcut]

I have a big shackle that fits in the hitch and tie a bowline to that but mostly pull with the mini that has a BMG.

 

[SeanKroll]

A tensionless anchor would have a small bend radius on a big shackle, but much better than knot.

 

[pantheraba]

Here is one years ago when Alex and I used a porty on his Bronco to belay a broken limb: