Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
Get the nut hot, then quench it. It'll just about spin off with your fingers.
Welders? Any welders on this site?
- Thread starter flushcut
- Start date
- Replies 1K
- Views 62K
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Works magic on brake bleeders too. If it doesn't work the first time do it again. Amazing.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
I’m late to the air arc party here but... never mind, this is my weapon of choice.
FireFighterZero
Captain Zero!
Dooooooood!
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Don't remind me .Two years ago I had a brake line go bad and sent the damned little truck out only to get an estimate of 2000 bucks to fix it .They couldn't figure out how get back drum brakes loose,too stupid to back the shoes off and broke the bleeders on both cylinders .I've come to the conclusion I must be the only mechanic left in these parts full of dumb asses .I can pay for it but can't find anybody to do it worth a damned .--don't get me started .
That yours Bob? I've heard those vantages weld good, but i doubt I'll ever consider one after the blown board on the 300 cost me a weld test due to undercut on the bead. Thank God the inspector ran it too and another guy and everyone agreed it was messed up so he gave me another test. Never ran it when it was repaired, so i can't attest on how they weld, but i doubt they will carry the metal that a well tuned 200 can.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
I can totally relate Al. They either don't know or don't care. Contractors as well as mechanics.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Yeah its mine Kyle, not for pipe tho. It only sees action in the quarry, loader buckets mostly. It was a demonstrator, got it cheap(real cheap)from Lincoln at 700 hours. When on a pipe job I use what the contractor provides. Never worked on a pipeline and to old to start now... heh
That's a badass machine Bob, obviously not for pipe but is designed for heavy equipment repair and other high amperage work. I assume you are running a wire feeder mainly? Ln 25 i assume, with a good size dial shield? Or are you running big rod? The built in air must be amazing, in fact that machine would be exactly what i need around the house for the ability to run wire correctly and gouge. The machine that let me down on a test was a vantage 300, which was the precursor to the cross country as I'm sure you know. I know guys with the cross country that swear by them, but that lesson with the board on that vantage is very fresh in my mind still. The ability to not fill up everyday must be nice tho!!!
BlackSmith
Uncivil
The LN25 is ok if I’m reline’n a truck bed or a dead box, replace’n a cutedge and such but mostly just run 3/16 or 1/4 rod for small projects. I’d rather use an ol “fireplug” on pipe than this beast.
Alright, this popped up on my YouTube suggestions, and so I'll put it here. He's doing spray arc with 35 wire wayyyyyyyyy too cold, that is wayyyyyyyyyy too much voltage and not near enough wire. Remember your wire feed is your heat, and he barely turns it up from his short circuit setting. He should be about maxing out the wire and 27 to 32 volts, which of course would melt the machine. I personally run higher voltage doing fillet welds than i do on groove welds (aka pipe), but here needs around 450 to 500 wire feed to fully enter spray mode. This dude has clearly not welded any production in his life, and he's still using what i consider a toddler mig. However his shitty video explains why baby migs aren't what you want, and why you need to stick weld instead.
https://youtu.be/QN5EJRlz988
https://youtu.be/QN5EJRlz988
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Kyle, you have been a big help with my welding projects on repairs. Just a big thanks mang.
Finally found a reasonably priced tomb stone (150.00) and actually got there first to buy it. Now, just practice practice. And knowledge type stuff.
Finally found a reasonably priced tomb stone (150.00) and actually got there first to buy it. Now, just practice practice. And knowledge type stuff.
get some 6011 and burn baby burn!!!
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Exactly what I'm burning mang 
pantheraba
More biners!!!
I love watching you guys talking about welding...I still think most of it is voodoo...but y'all got it happening!!!
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Learn to manipulate 6010 first. It will help you understand liquid metal and how the forces gravity effect it. Most other rod will be easier to run. Just my opinion.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I have 7018. Prefer to run 6011. Still fighting the flux on the 7018. But ya know. Practice practice.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
6010 has been around for a long time but it's a DC reverse polarity rod .Doesn't work worth a hoot on a buzz box but 6011 will . In the last few years 7018 is made so it will run on AC but was at one time another DC reverse rod .
The other "fast freeze " rods I can think of are 6012 and 6013 .The later 6013 has been termed "farmer rod " it does okay ,runs smooth but won't dig as deep as 10-or 11 .6012 has been suggested for rusty metal but to me it's just a general purpose rod .
Specialty rod like 11016 ,11018 ,pure nickel the varies stainless steel stick rods most people will never have a use for so there's no sense even mentioning them .
Iron powder 7014,7024,7028 are fast fill rods and take some power to run and other than 7014 would be of little use to anybody who doesn't have a big machine to run them .I do BTW .
The other "fast freeze " rods I can think of are 6012 and 6013 .The later 6013 has been termed "farmer rod " it does okay ,runs smooth but won't dig as deep as 10-or 11 .6012 has been suggested for rusty metal but to me it's just a general purpose rod .
Specialty rod like 11016 ,11018 ,pure nickel the varies stainless steel stick rods most people will never have a use for so there's no sense even mentioning them .
Iron powder 7014,7024,7028 are fast fill rods and take some power to run and other than 7014 would be of little use to anybody who doesn't have a big machine to run them .I do BTW .
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
On a vert up or overhead it's all how you "walk " the bead .The flux might appear to drip but the base metal is not .You have to watch the base but again it's takes some time to learn that .On a vert you hold the corners a tad then fire through the center fast .Pretty much the same on an overhead .You can't "stitch" it like a fast freeze .
7018 is all about rod angle. Turn it up, drag it, and keep a very tight arc and everything will flow where it should. Uphill you angle the rod down to push a bit, doing that flattens it out. Remember stick rods are hotter where you have an acute angle with the rod. That way you can build up or wet out more depending what you need. Always focus on rod angle and arc length, do that and everything will fall into place.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Tough for us part timers to keep 7018 dry. Pros keep it right in a rod oven. Are you getting a lot of pinholes? That is moisture. One would think you could throw it in an oven and burn the moisture off at 350-400 degrees. No. It wants to be 5 to 700 degrees.
Ammo can is what i use for keeping my cellulose dry, 7018 without a rod oven isn't low hydrogen but will run fine. When you strike up, do it ahead of where you will tie in, so the first part of the rod is burned off. That allows the gas shield to build up and the rod to get hot before you start your actual weld, and a nice hot porosity free tie in, and when you run over your arc strike area, it will burn it out.
FireFighterZero
Captain Zero!
I just welded a chain to a sproket.......
Currently waiting for it to fly apart.
Currently waiting for it to fly apart.
Similar threads
