Welders? Any welders on this site?

Oh yeah, with some dual shield you can weld stuff in position insanely fast. I did a job at a waste treatment facility replacing the magnaflow meters, which were 48" pipes. We had some position welds we hit with those in record time, welding as fast as possible so you can get done and never ever ever ever come back to this horrible place :lol: Another time, another shit plant, this time with a rusted out superstructure that held the pond skimmer. 150 ton crane boomed way out, bunch of big come alongs leveling it out, cutting free and cleaning human shit with a wire wheel on a 9" grinder, torching new pieces and rigging them in place, tarp over us in the rain, spin the knobs till they stop and get your damn hood over that ugly face and keep it that way....🤣🤣🤣🤣 ahhhh the memories... we did use them on non crappy jobs too if you were wondering lol
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  • #928
I’ve always wanted one built on the cheap
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I’m not happy with how the plumbing turned out but the hose I had on hand and the hitch plate was cut off of another project and reused on this one. Best part is I got the plow and frame for $50. Fiddy!
Did it make complaining sounds when you squeezed the weld out of it? ;)

Aside, what shade do y'all run and how far do you end up face to weld distance? Asking as an old guy who's eye's are acting up.
No i woke up when i fell off my little stool :lol: nothing you can't fix with a grinder!

Go get a cheater lens for your hood, i think I'm using a 1.5. I'm 40 and I've been using one for a year, it takes getting used to and you can only see well for a limited distance (annoying when you're in a tight spot) but if you can't see you need one and i needed one. I run an 11 for most stuff still, and 12 to 14 for heavy mig depending on the actual amperage (usually 12). In a few years i bet I'll be down to a 10, then eventually a 9 milking what's left in me as i chase retirement.
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  • #934
For shade my old hood I was nine for flux core mig and hard wire, new hood I am 10.5 for both and 11 for stick.
Aging eyes are a pita for welding, as for almost all the other tasks. The glass are mandatory for me now. But they gives a second reflect with the back light (one in the hood is already bad enough). They have to be kept very close to the face or else they don't match with the hood's window. Even, they don't stay there as soon as you tilt your head. You see two different views of the scenery, with different magnifications, focus and with an ofset between them. How handy is that ? And soo funny to put them back in place with the hood and the welding gloves, while holding the stick.:X

Good to know about the cheater lens. I have to find one.
It's like built in reading glasses for your hood. That's the beauty of a pancake hood, since it seals around your eyes like goggles it blocks all light (and dust, sparks, smoke, etc.). All you see is thru the lens so you don't have the reflection problem. I've been running an auto lens, i think it's an arc 1 singles shade 11, a quality lens really helps you see what's going on. The colbalt blue lenses are another huge step up in clarity, but that's a passive lens so it's a bit trickier, especially in tight spots you can't lift your hood at all (why I'm using said auto lens). On full penetration stainless tig I'm almost to the point where i need to switch to the cobalt lens so i can see the little eye in the puddle (what you watch to see if the edges are being broken down).

In a pinch you can tape a rag to the top back of your hood so it hangs down over your neck and blocks the light from behind you. Not very fire safe or fashionable but it works.
No thx, that would be completely useless in the tight spots i have to work in. Those are made for guys welding production and shipyard, standing upright in one spot welding with tons of room or in low ventilation areas with masks and leathers. Places where you're really pushing what is safe for the human body to tolerate as far as overheating, so they have their place. I would imagine they're very heavy and would cause lots of neck strain too. Designed by engineers who have never even struck an arc, to attempt to make a safer work environment without actually spending money to improve the actual working conditions.

Pancake hoods were developed by a pipeliner stick welding xray in the mud way back in the day and they have lots of advantages to offer when you're working in tight spots out of position or for ultimate vision and comfort. I can use a box fan to keep me out of the smoke and cool me off, and the open side of the hood keeps you cooler and allows you to breathe easier. They have a box that you sand to your face so it fits perfectly, and when you're under stuff rolling around in the dust you can keep stuff out of your eyes and face really well. You don't get any reflection, so when you're outside the sun doesn't interfere (same with lights inside too).

Sparks simply bounce off it away from you because of the simple shape, so you can lead with your face like a shield to protect yourself, which puts you right where you need to be to see what you're doing. Since welding is pretty much all about trying to be comfortable when sparks are raining on you, your gear can either help you or fight you. I became a lot better stick welder when i switched to a pancake hood, started using a heavy padded arm rest so my off hand forearm is completely protected and can rest on the hot surface, and got good gloves (like tillman 850s) so you can steady the rod with your off hand fingers. That and a cheater lens now :lol:
I'd like to try a ventilated hood, no boogers and if it kept me cooler that would be a win. For shop based welding it may not do everything, but if it increased comfort it would be well worth it. If you get in a bind you could always don a different setup.
Yeah, he does a lot of farm repair and pipe fencing. Works fine for him in that environment.
I need to buy a pancake as most the repair and crap I do is in the glare of the sun outside often laying in dirt trying to make something hold together etc.
Once you get used to one you'll never go back. Get a welder hat with a brim too, and rotate it to cover the ear that's up. You'll notice a lot less dust in your eyes from working in your dry environment too, just drop your hood before you crawl under and it'll block the dust. Around here they often insulate underground steam lines with a powered insulation that's like talc, absolute misery without a pancake with all the dust that's floating around. I use a Wendy's, but i have several original pancakes that are good too. I just prefer the right hand Wendy and just use my cap on my right ear if i gotta go southpaw. Most of the time if it's really awkward you can bend the rod to make it easier, often on tight spots ill have to bend them in half or less and stick it straight out of the stinger, reach and make sure you live in the corners. The white stuff in the pics is that insulation, works well but it's not fun to work with.

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This reminded me of an interaction last week 😂

Dude leaned into it hard, posted a link to a $250 flux core welder at Lowes, told me how I needed to practice an hour and I'd be good to go, and how he built a 4x8' trailer for himself with his similar welder.
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That's awesome man, what work are you doing on that? Isn't that pretty much new? And is that chrome moly?
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That's awesome man, what work are you doing on that? Isn't that pretty much new? And is that chrome moly?
Not sure what you're asking is new, but basically nothing in the video is new, except the Lenox Metal Max cutoff wheel, which I'm liking so far.

I bought the Millermatic 255 a couple years ago when I was building my current hook lift truck. I still have my Millermatic 185 but it basically doesn't get used any more.

The chassis is Dual Phase 980 steel (980MPa/142ksi minimum tensile strength). I'm sleeving some damaged/dented areas with 2"x.065" DOM tubing, whose ID matches the OD of the stock frame. I need to get it out of that garage so I can get a renter in that house.