Wanting a new bar
- Thread starter Burnham
- Start date
- Replies 93
- Views 6K
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By "bottom around the sprocket", do you mean the nose end or the tail at the rim? The nose would be a little more surprising to me assuming it all looks good, but it could possibly be fixed with a new tip.
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lay the bar on a piece of glass to check for bends/twists.
edit:
lay the bar on a piece of glass to check for bends/twists.
If you lay it on the ground in a few different places I’ll see maybe a 1/16in of being off where I can tap each end of the bar and get a Little Rock on a level surface. It’s by the tail of the rim. Was dropping a large diameter dead oak last week and I could be in a good clean level cut And see the chain wanting to walk off the bar. When I would go to remove the saw from the cut, the chain would be on the side of the bar instead of in the groove
Treeaddict
Treehouser
You can always replace the chain to see if it still happens
I have a full comp for the saw as a back up, guess next time I’ll put that on and see if it does the same thing. She got abused in a lot of dirty wood cutting down all the stumps from when we craned 25 trees over an apartment building a few weeks ago
SkwerI
Treehouser
Matt, flip the bar over and see if that helps. If so, then the bar may be slightly bent by the tail. Chuck it up in a bench vise and carefully bend it back.
stikine
Treehouser
@TINYHULK your chain might be a bit long. Ideally the end of the bar should be very close to the sprocket...the longer the gap the higher the tendency to throw chains. Some times you need to remove a link of chain to get it closer to the sprocket. This is especially important when running longer bars (like the 36 on your saw).
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I may be suggesting something sort of teaching to suck eggs but...
Are you holding/supporting the tip of the bar when you do your final tighten? If not it WILL walk up when you go to cut and put just a little slack in the system.
Are you holding/supporting the tip of the bar when you do your final tighten? If not it WILL walk up when you go to cut and put just a little slack in the system.
huskihl
Treehouser
HLSupply has decent prices and selection of Sugi bars. Archerplus is the distributor of Tsumura bars. Both are similar quality to Stihl ES
biggun
Monkey for Hire
Have you changed the sprocket?
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Bars should go for years, unless your logging full time.
Pictures always help.
Please explain your tensioning method.
Pictures always help.
Please explain your tensioning method.
Nutball
TreeHouser
Sugihara bars are not light weight in my experience, and Tsumura bars seem to have bad nose sprockets in Stig's experience. Archer brand bars, or any less common brand of bar is usually very poor quality.
I used to do that, but now I leave the bar down to reduce the chance of the chain jumping. I have not had problems with the bar moving back up and slacking the chain, except occasionally on small saws that only have 1 bar nut.
Nutball
TreeHouser
$46 regular Oregon bar, see what their shipping cost is for you: 435-2-200RNDD025 20" .050 Gauge Oregon Power Cut Replac - https://stahlssupplies.com/200RNDD025-20-050-Gauge-Oregon-Power-Cut-Replacement-Bar_p_2527.html
$59 with chain 435-Oregon 200RNDD025 Bar And Chain Combo Includes 72EXL/072 - https://stahlssupplies.com/Oregon-200RNDD025-Bar-And-Chain-Combo-Includes-72EXL072DL-Oregon-Chain_p_435.html
$60 for higher quality 1123-SN-20-50PA - https://stahlssupplies.com/SN-20-50PA_p_1123.html
Stahl's has some of the best prices especially if you buy $300 or more for free shipping.
$59 with chain 435-Oregon 200RNDD025 Bar And Chain Combo Includes 72EXL/072 - https://stahlssupplies.com/Oregon-200RNDD025-Bar-And-Chain-Combo-Includes-72EXL072DL-Oregon-Chain_p_435.html
$60 for higher quality 1123-SN-20-50PA - https://stahlssupplies.com/SN-20-50PA_p_1123.html
Stahl's has some of the best prices especially if you buy $300 or more for free shipping.
@biggun yeah right before it started doing this a chain got stretched so far it wouldn’t run right. Put a new bearing, sprocket, and (newish) chain on it. Shortly after I did this the chain started wanting to throw itself off.
@SeanKroll I do the normal tightening method. Lift bar nose, tighten chain until it makes full contact with bottom of bar, tighten front but first then back. I always hand spin, run the chain, and double check the tension before I go cutting
@SeanKroll I do the normal tightening method. Lift bar nose, tighten chain until it makes full contact with bottom of bar, tighten front but first then back. I always hand spin, run the chain, and double check the tension before I go cutting
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
72.99 for an ES here B. One in stock.
Thats not the light bar
Thats not the light bar
SkwerI
Treehouser
Easy rule of thumb. "No sag, no drag."
Burnham
Woods walker
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #46
Mostly, I find out of stock after attempting a purchase. They often don't tell you until late in the game. I'll check your link.You can always give eBay a try!
STIHL 20" CHAINSAW Rollomatic ES Bar & Chain Combo 3/8 .050 72 DL 3003 000 8822 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for STIHL 20" CHAINSAW Rollomatic ES Bar & Chain Combo 3/8 .050 72 DL 3003 000 8822 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
SkwerI
Treehouser
Probably an obvious suggestion, but have you checked at Bailey's? www.baileysonline.com
