Tsumura bars

[Frankie]

That’s why I run STIHL chain (ps 63 and RS ) Magnus , maybe not the “Best” off the roll , but after a few sharpenings they cut well ...and for bar STIHL or Cannon ... flip bar after maintenance / sharpen chain ... I have cut and split 1000 cord easy ... I recall something about the bars not lasting long because of inferior steel

 

[lxskllr]

Yes it is.

Thanks for the replies everybody.

I won't be buying any right now, however.

Richard cleaned out the filing shop in the lunch wagon today and found 6 new 20" bars that someone had placed on the top shelf, where nobody can see them, and forgot all about, apparently.

So we are good for bars the next 2 months or so.

Might be worth picking one up for testing purposes, and then you'll know. Better to try it out while you don't *need* it, than go off internet opinions, and find they don't really work for you. I have the luxury of being able to have a saw down for awhile, or lose a bit of money on a purchase. I don't need my saws to produce income. Having gear that works correctly is more important for you.

 

[Cut4fun]

Large Husky D009 24" 3/8 050 84DL. Didnt even get a chance to put it on a saw for a try and was sold.

Can feel the difference in the nose weight. Can see where it would come in handy for the guys with longer bars.

Now if you run stihl mount. Stihl LW is even lighter.

24" D009 Oregon powermatch in 050 poulan bar and 058 in jred bar. To compare to Tsu LW.

 

[Naturarbo]

after gettin a Tsumura 3 foot bar for my 441,nevere had a bent,kinked or worn out bar...I think that this bars are worth the cash,got them from germany and do recommend it

 

[Cut4fun]

I had one of their 36" which IMO is really 37" and 119DL 3/8. @Naturarbo

I was 2nd owner and it was ran on a 2095 for years by 1st owner. I traded it to a 3rd owner now for milling set up.

That bar just wouldnt wear out.

 

[Naturarbo]

believe that man

 

[Reddog]

If you can get Tsumura light or Sugi lights, they are both worth a try.
Tips can be a issue if greased.
I clean a brand new tip with a air hose then soak in bar oil before using. Then just run them.
Have not had a tip fail yet, knock wood.

I would put them as good as the German made ES bars.
And better then any Blount bar or USA made ES bar.

Stig, Hope all is good with Richard and yourself.

 

[kingkee]

Well what about the shipping fee? Also in your favor?

 

[stig]

Since Sweden just happens to be next door to Denmark, it doesn't cost more to have stuff shipped from there.

Thanks, Wally.
We're fine.
You too, I hope.

Now you've all giving me a hankering to try those bars, might just order a few, even though we found that stack og new Stihl bars.

 

[Frankie]

Large Husky D009 24" 3/8 050 84DL. Didnt even get a chance to put it on a saw for a try and was sold.

Can feel the difference in the nose weight. Can see where it would come in handy for the guys with longer bars.

Now if you run stihl mount. Stihl LW is even lighter.

24" D009 Oregon powermatch in 050 poulan bar and 058 in jred bar. To compare to Tsu LW.

View attachment 98027View attachment 98028View attachment 98029

Seems all use guys from Ohio have “digital scales “. Hmmm

 

[Cut4fun]

Seems all use guys from Ohio have “digital scales “. Hmmm

Never noticed myself.

But to run a small shop it is a must.
My scale has more then paid for itself. Nice gift from the wife years back.

I use it for weighing the saw box and then print Fedex and ship.

Seems like you must stalk alot of folks to notice who all has what.

 

[Tree09]

I think it was a drug reference....

 

[Nutball]

I wouldn't know.

 

[Jed]

Stig: I have only had Sugi Haras. But I think that you cannot go wrong with Tsumara. I am beholden to Tsumara because of Jack Bealar (Hotsaws101 on youtube) whom all of us PNW folk are required to worship on pain of death. He seems to rather like them, and I think that you can't go wrong here.

 

[Frankie]

Tsmura bars are good quality .... Cannon bars are even better ... For what the guy from the “land of fruits and nuts “ charges for saw builds you’d think his bars “wood” be made of military-grade unobtainium !

 

[Frankie]

Never noticed myself.

But to run a small shop it is a must.
My scale has more then paid for itself. Nice gift from the wife years back.

I use it for weighing the saw box and then print Fedex and ship.

Seems like you must stalk alot of folks to notice who all has what.

Use “Ohio boys” ain’t got much of a sense of humor do ya ? ... you’re not affiliated with Brad S aka “snailerizer” in any way shape or form are ya ?

 

[Cut4fun]

If you can get Tsumura light or Sugi lights, they are both worth a try.
Tips can be a issue if greased.
I clean a brand new tip with a air hose then soak in bar oil before using. Then just run them.
Have not had a tip fail yet, knock wood.

I would put them as good as the German made ES bars.
And better then any Blount bar or USA made ES bar.

Stig, Hope all is good with Richard and yourself.

Confirms what I have been told.

I was told this by a dealer that sells to alot of them to loggers. He said if greased the tips seem to not last. But dont do it on these and no issues.
Was also told bore cutting was the biggest issue with them when they were greased.

Good to read you seen the same thing.

 

[Nutball]

I think grease can build more heat over oil. Also notice how Stihl has no oil holes or sometimes just one. I think Husqy is doing similar now.

 

[lxskllr]

What I've heard around is if you grease. you have to keep doing it. Greasing once is worse than not greasing at all. I've also heard it's optional, and I opt not to do it. Bar oil should be sufficient.

 

[Nutball]

My issue with relying on bar oil is how the chain flings the oil away from the sprocket. I think having no grease holes, but cleaning the sprocket with an air compressor and soaking it in oil would be best. The grease holes can let dirt get sucked in.

 

[Burnham]

IME, greasing roller tips of ANY bar is an open invitation to trouble. I never do, not since I was a wee pup of a sawyer, anyway.

 

[Magnus]

We had Orange Cannon bars here that I tried our some years ago. Pretty soft and wore out rather fast.
The white Cannon bars was a bit better. Both better than Stihl and Oregon.
The Sugi bars I sold here lasted about double runtime. Iggesund bars was a tiny bit harder and a lot cheaper so they became their favorit. Tested by same guy's in beech logging here, all solid and replaceble tips with Oregon chains..
As they say Tsamura and Sugi is same so I think a test would be a good thing to do.

Greasing bar tips is not needed if the saw oils well and is kept clean.
Oil can easily find its way to bearing in bar tip if there isn't a hard cluster of old grease by sprocket.
You could see that a lot when replacing bearings before. Now bars are often worn out before bearing or sprocket go.
I renovated bars before (not just bar tip replacement), but today its not cost effective.

 

[Frankie]

I agree Burnham ...

We had Orange Cannon bars here that I tried our some years ago. Pretty soft and wore out rather fast.
The white Cannon bars was a bit better. Both better than Stihl and Oregon.
The Sugi bars I sold here lasted about double runtime. Iggesund bars was a tiny bit harder and a lot cheaper so they became their favorit. Tested by same guy's in beech logging here, all solid and replaceble tips with Oregon chains..
As they say Tsamura and Sugi is same so I think a test would be a good thing to do.

huh ? Cannon bars are superior quality (at least what they are producing today) ... in fact all racers use the “fat belly” cannons for a reason ... Tsamura bars suffered from a caca tail grind - not straight at all ! Also have heard reports of cracking by the inserts ... maybe Q.C has improved but I’ll stick with me Cannon or STIHL RS ... you get what you PAY for ...

 

[Magnus]

Cannon was not that pricey. But should do better for the buck.
Perhaps I should try again sometime...

 

[Magnus]

Is there any other manufacturer that do fat belly bars?