Nutball
TreeHouser
You can usually see grease in there if it has been greased. Not all new bars with hole have been greased.
Tsumura bars
- Thread starter stig
- Start date
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Burnham
Woods walker
I'm firmly in the camp that does not grease roller tips. IMO, if you start down that path, as others have noted, you have to keep it up religiously, every day of cutting. Otherwise the grease traps contaminants that increase friction and wear. Only way to fight that grit is to flush it out with heavy greasing, and frequently.
When I started out we were taught to grease...but not much later I learned better. And it has the benefit of being one less maintenance item to take care of.
I have not greased a roller tip in over 35 years.
When I started out we were taught to grease...but not much later I learned better. And it has the benefit of being one less maintenance item to take care of.
I have not greased a roller tip in over 35 years.
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Magnus
TreeHouser
The hole for greasing can be there its not a big problem. Most crap going in bearing go in between the sprocket and bar sides.
If its greased It may stay there linger, oiled it will throw out.
If you have a greased bar tip and want it to be oiled.... Add some synthetic oil in the bar hole a cople times the grease go out as it warms up and oil can get in.
Don't be cheap on oil it not expensive compared to rims, bars and sprockets.
Up with pumps to max and run as you stole it!
If its greased It may stay there linger, oiled it will throw out.
If you have a greased bar tip and want it to be oiled.... Add some synthetic oil in the bar hole a cople times the grease go out as it warms up and oil can get in.
Don't be cheap on oil it not expensive compared to rims, bars and sprockets.
Up with pumps to max and run as you stole it!
chris_girard
Treehouser
Same here and I agree for the same reasons.
Ed L
Treehouser
If a bar has a grease hole, I'll grease it.
I've had Tsurmura bars on and off for 35 years...never blown a tip.
Never bore cut a tree either.
Ed
I've had Tsurmura bars on and off for 35 years...never blown a tip.
Never bore cut a tree either.
Ed
Magnus
TreeHouser
Never bore cut a tree in 35 years of logging?
How is that even possible?
Why would you not do that?
How is that even possible?
Why would you not do that?
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
I have always greased over these almost 40 years now, work probably 95% of the time in hardwoods (though some weeks it seems the conifers win!), and I can only recall one tip coming apart in all that time... then again, as Burnham points out, regular greasing would expel the nasties.
I agree Kyle, some days the way the pieces lay and the forces in play, boring and bucking go hand-in-hand.
I can't think of how I'd carve a client a log chair or couch without bore-cutting at least a few of the cuts!
I agree Kyle, some days the way the pieces lay and the forces in play, boring and bucking go hand-in-hand.
I can't think of how I'd carve a client a log chair or couch without bore-cutting at least a few of the cuts!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #111
I wrote the dealer and BITCHED!!!
Got a lot of questions back, as in " Have I used the bar to tip trees with"
Wrote back and laid the dinosaur story on him.
As In: " I have been a pro faller for 45 years, you idiot"
That sure changed the tone.
They are sending me a bunch of replacement tips and...sorry.....sorry.......sorry!
Got a lot of questions back, as in " Have I used the bar to tip trees with"
Wrote back and laid the dinosaur story on him.
As In: " I have been a pro faller for 45 years, you idiot"
That sure changed the tone.
They are sending me a bunch of replacement tips and...sorry.....sorry.......sorry!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #112
Jerry and I have had a discussion about that.
Seems reaming work best on softwood, not so well in hardwood.
A wedge or the neat trick, I learned here is your friend for that.
Cut a slim wedge out of the top of the log, bang it in with the bar, then cut in below it.
Might need a bit of reaming, but usually not.
One of the best things I have got from being a member here.
If you can't figure it out, let me know and when my hand heals up and I get back to logging, I'll do a " How to".
Ed L
Treehouser
My logging is salvage and family firewood, rarely cut a standing tree of any size...got good at falling when the ash borrer hit us. Trial by fire. Problem trees were left until mother nature dropped them for me.
There have been times a bore cut would've been best, I was ignorant to it at the time.
Had a dead american elm last week, 250cm dbh, edge of a field leaner, intwined with a red oak. Had to swing it to break free, no need for a bore cut as the oak branches held it. Notched it, back cut, slowly started to fall, the oak held it up. Had to go back in and remove some of the hinge to get it to fall. Went over so slow it never left the stump when the hinge broke.
Ed
treebogan
Treehouser
I have bought a couple of Tsumara Bars,I have had a couple of Sugihara bars in the past too.
One thing I have always done because it was usual to do when I was logging, was to pour a bit of bar lube over the bar and chain a couple of times a day.I do this now only when I am cutting up alot of timber.I did this the other day and noticed just how much lube made it into the sprocket bearings .
Apart from that I have never greased a bar tip and I don't know anyone who did.
One thing I have always done because it was usual to do when I was logging, was to pour a bit of bar lube over the bar and chain a couple of times a day.I do this now only when I am cutting up alot of timber.I did this the other day and noticed just how much lube made it into the sprocket bearings .
Apart from that I have never greased a bar tip and I don't know anyone who did.
Magnus
TreeHouser
When I felled in forrest the hinge was to hold all the way, not break o pull fiber. It was with the support legs part of the safety when cutting branches on the larger trees.
Last cut on tree was to let it go from stump.
If not, no logging!
I failed a few times of curse, but still today try my best to make sure it holds on stump.
Last cut on tree was to let it go from stump.
If not, no logging!
I failed a few times of curse, but still today try my best to make sure it holds on stump.
Jonny
Treehouser
I do this when cutting stumps as low as possible, especially with long bars. That one task always seems to generate more heat and friction on the bar than bucking. An old dish soap squirt bottle is nice for getting extra oil on everything.
I also do it with brand new chains. I’ve heard of folks keeping a little bucket of oil to dip or soak new chains in too.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Bar oil is your friend ... I cannot believe the amount of folk I’ve cut with over the years who try and “save” money by using any concoction other than the recommended bar oil ! When I maintain my saws after a cutting session I always clean the bar grooves and oil hole and run the Oiler on max - then run the saw blipping the throttle until the chain is well oiled and oil is starting to drip on the ground, this way I know everything is well lubed and redy to go for the next cut cut session ... Just set the saw on newspaper to mop up the drippings ... It states in the manual that the “chain must throw oil” if it doesn’t imho you are prematurely wearing out the cutting attachment and associated components ... I swear by the STIHL blue jug winter oil , pricey initially but cheaper in the long run
Jonny
Treehouser
I’ve dumped extra oil on the bar as a co-worker was struggling to ALAP a stump and it positively boiled when it contacted the bar. Then they wonder why every bar they own over 20” is warped to shit.
I baby my longer bars and they last.
I baby my longer bars and they last.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
The bars should last indefinitely if maintained properly . They will eventually need to be retired but that’s after many hundred of face cord cut ! I prefer the cannon superbars myself ... Pricey but superior to all other offerings - ya get what ya pay for
I've run tilton/total/tsumura since the 80s
We had a jonsereds dealer in a local town
That was a tilton dealer.
I have about 30-35 of them now
Always been an excellent bar for me
Outlasting my Husqvarna/oregon bars.
Never tried sugihara
I'm of the no grease philosophy
After me and my brother had the tips blow out of a couple windsor and oregon bar's
The tips were packed with dust and chips
Cutting a lot of standing dead hazard tree's.
May be a coincidence but no tsumura bars failed.
The laser forestry pro bar's sold today are tsumura now
And actually a bit cheaper than tsumura sometimes.
We had a jonsereds dealer in a local town
That was a tilton dealer.
I have about 30-35 of them now
Always been an excellent bar for me
Outlasting my Husqvarna/oregon bars.
Never tried sugihara
I'm of the no grease philosophy
After me and my brother had the tips blow out of a couple windsor and oregon bar's
The tips were packed with dust and chips
Cutting a lot of standing dead hazard tree's.
May be a coincidence but no tsumura bars failed.
The laser forestry pro bar's sold today are tsumura now
And actually a bit cheaper than tsumura sometimes.
