Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but it can be moved if need be. My dad's old tractor (John Deere 2030, 'bout 1969 model) started getting fuel in the oil last fall. He drained it, added fresh oil, and ran it a couple of times, and it did it again pretty quickly. Any ideas on what's causing it? My first suspicion is the gasket(s) where the fuel pump attaches are the culprit. Hoping it's not an injector problem. Anyone heard of this before? Simple fix? It'll soon be plowing time, and he loves gardening....
Tractor problems.....
- Thread starter treesmith
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Cobleskill
Treehouser
The pump diaphragm is probably leaking fuel through and into the crankcase. If it has a ring of screw you can rebuild it.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Gear Forum would also work.
HEUI injectors obviously do and a faulty O ring can cause those symptoms, but I wouldn't think mechanical injectors have access to the oil anyways.
I'd suspect the fuel pump as well.
HEUI injectors obviously do and a faulty O ring can cause those symptoms, but I wouldn't think mechanical injectors have access to the oil anyways.
I'd suspect the fuel pump as well.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #4
Do you mean rebuild the entire pump, or just replace the diaphragm? And if the pump is rebuilt, is it pretty straightforward, or will it have to be timed and suchlike?
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Replace the diaphragm and the valves too, probably. The last kit I got didn't have the valves. Pretty easy. Couple hours for everything.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Sure thing. There is a shut off valve, usually on the bottom of the tank. Little T-handle valve you turn off before you crack the fuel lines. After you install the pump you will have to bleed some air out of the fuel filter. If it doesn't start after that, crack a couple injector line fitting nuts until it does.
Che
Treehouser
I guess there are two possibilities, one is the transfer pump which is like a old school fuel pump with the diaphram and stuff. The other is the injector pump and I wouldn't know which is more likely. The transfer pump is a lot cheaper to work on so I would start there. I have a 2030.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
Steve beat me to it. On our IH tractors of late 60's early 70's vintage, the injector pump recirculates any fuel not pumped into the injectors. In the bottom of the fuel tank there is a check valve, and if that gets gummed up or stops letting fuel into the tank, the injector pump seal blows out filling the crankcase. The IH tractors do not use a cam operated fuel pump.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Transfer pump is much more common and much cheaper. I can't remember hearing of JD injector pump leaking, but several transfer pumps.
JD's website is a POS. The diagrams are OK, but info and ease of use, not good. One would think a huge co. like JD would have something decent. I was working on a tractor last summer I had split behind the bell housing. There were a few different flat rubber rings on the separation joint that needed replacing. The dealer mechanic had coated them with silicone the last time it was apart, rather than replacing them. He must have had trouble finding them listed too. I looked on the website for an hour or two, then called a dealer and had the parts guy look. No luck. I measured OD, ID, and thickness and gave those dimensions to the parts guy. When I finally started ordering parts, the paper gasket on the separation joint came up with a price of over $100. I said OK, what does that consist of. Turns out it is paper gaskets, O rings, seals that cover several models on that joint. No notation on the diagram, and the parts guy was unaware. Way to make things easy, JD.
JD's website is a POS. The diagrams are OK, but info and ease of use, not good. One would think a huge co. like JD would have something decent. I was working on a tractor last summer I had split behind the bell housing. There were a few different flat rubber rings on the separation joint that needed replacing. The dealer mechanic had coated them with silicone the last time it was apart, rather than replacing them. He must have had trouble finding them listed too. I looked on the website for an hour or two, then called a dealer and had the parts guy look. No luck. I measured OD, ID, and thickness and gave those dimensions to the parts guy. When I finally started ordering parts, the paper gasket on the separation joint came up with a price of over $100. I said OK, what does that consist of. Turns out it is paper gaskets, O rings, seals that cover several models on that joint. No notation on the diagram, and the parts guy was unaware. Way to make things easy, JD.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #12
Where is the transfer pump located? I know there is a pump on the side of the engine, which I assumed to be the injector pump. Could the transfer pump be leaking fuel into the crankcase? Also, is there a chance that the rings are worn enough to allow fuel to bypass and get into the crankcase? The hour meter broke years ago....it prolly has 2500 to 3000 hours on it, which doesn't seem like enough to "wear it out". I also read where it could be a head gasket issue.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
The transfer and injection pump are both on the side. The injection pump has a line going to each cylinder. The transfer, which looks like a normal mechanical fuel pump, has one line from the tank and one going to the injection pump. For it to fill up the crankcase as fast as it did, the transfer pump is where to look first. Cheapest and easiest too.
Here is a picture of the right side of the motor of a 2640 and an arrow pointing to the pump, which is basically the same tractor only a little bigger and a little newer. My 2030 has a loader which obcures the pump somewhat or I would have taken a picture of it. The injector pump has to be timed and you also need plugs and caps for all of the outlet fittings on the pump, the injector lines, and the injectors, if you remove them to keep dirt out of them. Also I have never gotten a injector pump back from the injector place without a bill for at least $800. I would just take your transfer pump into the local NAPA or something similar and get a new kor rebuilt pump. You then need to remove the plug on the fuel filter on the top and pump the handle on the transfer pump until air quits coming from the plug on the filter.
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- #15
Thanks Steve. It'll be next week before I get a chance to look at it. We'll prolly have to either take the loader off or raise it all the way up to be able to get at it. His loader isn't like mine. It's an act of congress to take it off, while mine comes off in a couple of minutes.
