I don't believe the 361 is compatible with the 362. Reading around it looks like the 361 shares a chassis with the 341(WTH is that?!). Doesn't mean you couldn't hack a 362 handle to fit, but I'd want the parts in front of me before I spent the money.
046 Refurbishing
- Thread starter BlackBikeDave
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BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
Thanks but ya'll missing the point. I'm not looking for or talking bout the outer handle grip. Look at the pictures above and you will see what I am talking about. The trigger handle and gas tank combo. Mine is cracked but still solid. The aftermarket units are cheaper knock offs but look the same. If anyone has any experience in handling these I would love to get your opinion. Still going to try to repair first.
The hose replacement was a newbie overthinking. This is deepest I have gotten into saw maintenance. The kits online are cheap. Not that the hoses aren't just as cheap but really not all that much more at the Stihl parts counter. Rather go back to them if there is an issue vs quabling with some overseas seller that no speak ingwish that doesn't care about the ruined 1k saw..lol
As for oil in the clutch area in excess. I discovered it is the old oil hose that is leaking. The rubber is old and heat cycled and not making a seal against the case and probably leaky where the pump presses into it as well. I also am gonna replace that flat o-ring that seals the top of the oil pump. Waiting on RCM in Mars Hill NC for the parts to come in.
More to add later.
Thanks again for the replys and Merry Christmas n Happy New Year to All "In and Under the Tree"
The hose replacement was a newbie overthinking. This is deepest I have gotten into saw maintenance. The kits online are cheap. Not that the hoses aren't just as cheap but really not all that much more at the Stihl parts counter. Rather go back to them if there is an issue vs quabling with some overseas seller that no speak ingwish that doesn't care about the ruined 1k saw..lol
As for oil in the clutch area in excess. I discovered it is the old oil hose that is leaking. The rubber is old and heat cycled and not making a seal against the case and probably leaky where the pump presses into it as well. I also am gonna replace that flat o-ring that seals the top of the oil pump. Waiting on RCM in Mars Hill NC for the parts to come in.
More to add later.
Thanks again for the replys and Merry Christmas n Happy New Year to All "In and Under the Tree"
I didn’t miss the point, you’re looking for a tank/handle combo, we just got talking about handlebars.
I would buy OEM tank if I were going through the effort of repairing the saw. I’ve done a few of them on 460s, 660s, and 372s. and they aren’t too bad.
Investing a few hundred dollars into a saw is minimal compared to the cost of a new saw if you have the time for the repairs.
Many decide not to repair because of the time involved and fewer people can properly tune a carbureted saw. Also almost all of the new saws have a better AV system than a ms046.
I would buy OEM tank if I were going through the effort of repairing the saw. I’ve done a few of them on 460s, 660s, and 372s. and they aren’t too bad.
Investing a few hundred dollars into a saw is minimal compared to the cost of a new saw if you have the time for the repairs.
Many decide not to repair because of the time involved and fewer people can properly tune a carbureted saw. Also almost all of the new saws have a better AV system than a ms046.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #30
BIGTWIG ty
The Handle\Gastank I repaired the best I could. If the repair fails I will buy the $30 dollar unit. Looks exactly as the OEM and its just the plastics. I'm overthinking things looking for advice to hand guide me but its just hit or miss with some things I guess. Always good to go OEM but some things probably dont matter as much. Like having Zildjian annnd Sabian cymbals on the same drum kit. Sometimes it works very well.
I've seen the videos of the aftermarket knock off engines failing for one reason or another but never one about the plastics in the handle/tank. Hopefully I never have to go that route. I'm hoping my hose parts come in soon so I can start putting this back together. It looks about as fresh as its gonna get for being an old ripper.
My main concern is getting this saw back into my buddys hands ready to shred with the 32" bar, running and looking better than when he bought it used years ago.
This will really make him feel good.
Black Mountain NC where he's at is still covered in mud.
The Handle\Gastank I repaired the best I could. If the repair fails I will buy the $30 dollar unit. Looks exactly as the OEM and its just the plastics. I'm overthinking things looking for advice to hand guide me but its just hit or miss with some things I guess. Always good to go OEM but some things probably dont matter as much. Like having Zildjian annnd Sabian cymbals on the same drum kit. Sometimes it works very well.
I've seen the videos of the aftermarket knock off engines failing for one reason or another but never one about the plastics in the handle/tank. Hopefully I never have to go that route. I'm hoping my hose parts come in soon so I can start putting this back together. It looks about as fresh as its gonna get for being an old ripper.
My main concern is getting this saw back into my buddys hands ready to shred with the 32" bar, running and looking better than when he bought it used years ago.
This will really make him feel good.
Black Mountain NC where he's at is still covered in mud.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #31
Any tips on new fuel hose install? I tried pulling with hemostat from inside out and it feels like the hose is gonna break like a rubber band. I tried pushing from the top with the blunt end of the closed hemostat and damn thing went right thru the hose like a nail. I gotta get this thing back together and the seemingly simple task of the fuel hose install has almost worked the first curse word outa me.. lol help
huskihl
Treehouser
Is it the green oem line? Grease the grommet and pull straight down with hemos while pushing from the top. Usually a little stretch in a circular patternAny tips on new fuel hose install? I tried pulling with hemostat from inside out and it feels like the hose is gonna break like a rubber band. I tried pushing from the top with the blunt end of the closed hemostat and damn thing went right thru the hose like a nail. I gotta get this thing back together and the seemingly simple task of the fuel hose install has almost worked the first curse word outa me.. lol help
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
You can also use a string like throwline to pull it through. Just a 1/2 hitch around the hose below the flair. Lube it. Same trick for the 200t intake boot
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #34
Thank you but wont lube compromise the seal?
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
No
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Use 2 sroke oil if it worries you
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
So here's what I learned with the fuel hose installation.
Get a pair of angled needle nose plyers(cheap at the HF) and put some heat shrink over the tips and shrink them tight.
Insert the fuel hose till you get to the seal point. Put a litlle spit on your finger and move it around(TWSS
) the hose where its gonna seat into the tank.
Reach around inside the tank with the needle nose plyers till you find the highest point you can on the hose. Use your other hand to control the top and push down into the needle nose. Just so you can get a high grip. Give it a firm pinch with the plyers and pull the hose down while pushing with your top hand down and the hose will snap into place. Easy Peesy. Have some patience and do this and you will save yourself a headache. This way you dont have to worry about any chemical lubricants. I don't know it that matters sientificly but to me it does. Anyway I'll report more as I close in on firing it up.
Get a pair of angled needle nose plyers(cheap at the HF) and put some heat shrink over the tips and shrink them tight.
Insert the fuel hose till you get to the seal point. Put a litlle spit on your finger and move it around(TWSS
) the hose where its gonna seat into the tank.Reach around inside the tank with the needle nose plyers till you find the highest point you can on the hose. Use your other hand to control the top and push down into the needle nose. Just so you can get a high grip. Give it a firm pinch with the plyers and pull the hose down while pushing with your top hand down and the hose will snap into place. Easy Peesy. Have some patience and do this and you will save yourself a headache. This way you dont have to worry about any chemical lubricants. I don't know it that matters sientificly but to me it does. Anyway I'll report more as I close in on firing it up.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #38
CurSedVoyce
Thanks I read that after I posted. You make a good point.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
046 back together. Few pulls to get the fuel goin and it fired right up.
Next issue. Installing 32" bar.
Tapered bar nut studs?
I got the saw with 1 bar nut missing. There is a seller at the Tri City Flea Market in Tn that sells bar nuts for Stihl saws. I picked up a few.
It felt a little tight going on and I didnt wanna force it so I started backing it out and the stud came too.
I easily removed the nut from the stud but I'm a little puzzled.
Do I loctite the stud and go to the dealer for oem nuts or is there a better way of maybe upgrading the studs to the newer style meaning non tapered.
Is this possible?
Next issue. Installing 32" bar.
Tapered bar nut studs?
I got the saw with 1 bar nut missing. There is a seller at the Tri City Flea Market in Tn that sells bar nuts for Stihl saws. I picked up a few.
It felt a little tight going on and I didnt wanna force it so I started backing it out and the stud came too.
I easily removed the nut from the stud but I'm a little puzzled.
Do I loctite the stud and go to the dealer for oem nuts or is there a better way of maybe upgrading the studs to the newer style meaning non tapered.
Is this possible?
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #41
Sounded odd to me too. What is old style vs new style? Read about dealers no longer carrying old style nuts. Please unconfuse me..lol
Also read about but not understanding different studs for longer bars. ?
Can I chase the threads on the stud and nuts to clean them up and anyone know correct tap size? The inner threads are fine. Blue loctite them?
I'm so close to rippin some chips with this beast!
Also read about but not understanding different studs for longer bars. ?
Can I chase the threads on the stud and nuts to clean them up and anyone know correct tap size? The inner threads are fine. Blue loctite them?
I'm so close to rippin some chips with this beast!
Nutball
TreeHouser
Threaded studs is a big reason why I don't like Stihl; it's an unnecessary potential headache, and they don't even loctite them from the factory.
I just clean the threads on the stud and the hole very well. To do this, I leave the saw starter side down for a while after draining the oil to get the residue away from the stud side. Then I get several Q-tips (the made them slightly smaller now, so they may not work as well) double over the tip of one or just pair up two and thread them in the hole, and out again. I do this a few times with rubbing alcohol, then dry to get the threads squeaky clean. The studs I wrap in a paper towel and dig my thumb nail into the thread groove and twist, repeat until the groove is squeaky clean. Then I thread the studs in tight with blue thread locker. You can thread the studs tight with either vise grips on the part the bar sits on, or tighten 2 bar nuts against each other and use a wrench, or wrap the threads with leather or something like that and use vise grips.
I wouldn't chase the outer threads. Maybe just a drop of oil on them since they don't need to be super tight. A tiny screw driver can scrape out the gunk if there is any.
I really doubt dealers wouldn't carry old style nuts since they are so common and are better than after market ones, but maybe the AM ones are outselling OEM too much.
I just clean the threads on the stud and the hole very well. To do this, I leave the saw starter side down for a while after draining the oil to get the residue away from the stud side. Then I get several Q-tips (the made them slightly smaller now, so they may not work as well) double over the tip of one or just pair up two and thread them in the hole, and out again. I do this a few times with rubbing alcohol, then dry to get the threads squeaky clean. The studs I wrap in a paper towel and dig my thumb nail into the thread groove and twist, repeat until the groove is squeaky clean. Then I thread the studs in tight with blue thread locker. You can thread the studs tight with either vise grips on the part the bar sits on, or tighten 2 bar nuts against each other and use a wrench, or wrap the threads with leather or something like that and use vise grips.
I wouldn't chase the outer threads. Maybe just a drop of oil on them since they don't need to be super tight. A tiny screw driver can scrape out the gunk if there is any.
I really doubt dealers wouldn't carry old style nuts since they are so common and are better than after market ones, but maybe the AM ones are outselling OEM too much.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Late to the party, but I always just put a dab of Vaseline on the hose/grommet. It is petroleum based so no issues with compatibility and it will keep the rubber more flexible for several months so no worries about pinch points or binding.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #44
I just got back from Stihl dealer with 2 new bar studs. $3.50 each. Easy Peasy.
I think the old stud threads were a little stretched from all the years of various users tightening.
The new bar nuts screw on very easy.
Now to sharpen that 32" chain and go make a wood chip pile!
Thanks for everyones help. I'll post some pics later.
I think the old stud threads were a little stretched from all the years of various users tightening.
The new bar nuts screw on very easy.
Now to sharpen that 32" chain and go make a wood chip pile!
Thanks for everyones help. I'll post some pics later.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #45
Murphys Law
I need to replace the gas and oil cap flat rubber washer seals.
I cannot find this anywhere after many searches. Has to be a common thing, getting that simple seal instead of purchasing new caps right?
I'm 2 seconds away from ripping a proper chip pile after almost 3 hrs of hand filing and repairing rock damaged teeth on that 32" full chain..ugh
Leaky no guuud.
Anywhere I can get this or just try to make my own out of the rubber gasket sheets in the plumbing isle?
thank you
I need to replace the gas and oil cap flat rubber washer seals.
I cannot find this anywhere after many searches. Has to be a common thing, getting that simple seal instead of purchasing new caps right?
I'm 2 seconds away from ripping a proper chip pile after almost 3 hrs of hand filing and repairing rock damaged teeth on that 32" full chain..ugh
Leaky no guuud.
Anywhere I can get this or just try to make my own out of the rubber gasket sheets in the plumbing isle?
thank you
stihl 044 av, ms 440. 046 av chainsaw large tank ring seal pn 1128 791 8401
Part: large ring, part # 1128 791 8401 Condition: good used/working shape Fits: Stihl 044 av and MS440, 046 av
chainsawr.com
I'd probably try to make one, at least as a first attempt.
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #47
thanks.....Thats great if not for tax and 8 dollars and change for shipping..lol
I made my own already out of the 1/8" thick gasket sheet from the plumbing isle..lol..5 bucks and lots of extra for future use on something else.
Would really like the oem if possible but not for crazy price of cheap rubber.
Stihl needs a stern talking to for not supplying these cheap maintenance rubber.
I made my own already out of the 1/8" thick gasket sheet from the plumbing isle..lol..5 bucks and lots of extra for future use on something else.
Would really like the oem if possible but not for crazy price of cheap rubber.
Stihl needs a stern talking to for not supplying these cheap maintenance rubber.
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
If the "bar oil" residue under the clutch cover was black, either your pal was using used crank case oil, or that clutch is slipping and getting very hot.
Gary
Gary
BlackBikeDave
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #49
GASoline71, I know he for sure doesn't use used oil. I guess thats a common thing although I have personally never heard of anyone I know doing that. Doesn't make sense to use that in such an expensive saw but there are always the "others"...lol
I think its more the heat issue as this saw was just gunked up. First I think the lifetime heat cycles vulcanized the rubber. The seal that is made in the case with the oil hose was leaking didnt help anything. I replaced the hose and the only thing I didn't do was the o rings in the oil pump. I ran the saw outside and held the tip over some snow and saw the chain was getting oil but after running for a bit, like an old Harley Davidson, it maked its spot on the floor. I know a little oil is expected but man everytime you put the saw down shouldnt be a puddle. I am wondering if the metal plate that covers the chain tensioner is warped and allowing the oil to drip down behind it as the pump pushes it out. Meaning not all the oil is getting onto the chain. Does that make sense?
I think its more the heat issue as this saw was just gunked up. First I think the lifetime heat cycles vulcanized the rubber. The seal that is made in the case with the oil hose was leaking didnt help anything. I replaced the hose and the only thing I didn't do was the o rings in the oil pump. I ran the saw outside and held the tip over some snow and saw the chain was getting oil but after running for a bit, like an old Harley Davidson, it maked its spot on the floor. I know a little oil is expected but man everytime you put the saw down shouldnt be a puddle. I am wondering if the metal plate that covers the chain tensioner is warped and allowing the oil to drip down behind it as the pump pushes it out. Meaning not all the oil is getting onto the chain. Does that make sense?
Nutball
TreeHouser
If you run it out of wood and set it down, all that oil that sprayed up in the clutch cover will puddle under the saw. Even some new saws make a puddle. It's best to leave the tank empty for that reason. I think some do it because of a 1 way valve and changes in barometric pressure.
