flushcut
TreeHouser
You would need to freeze the body first. Warm meat will clog the chute. Lol
Chipper 101
- Thread starter lxskllr
- Start date
- Replies 213
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Kaveman
Treehouser
Now there's the kind of information I was looking for!
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Probably needs to feed them with a couple green logs.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #154
I've got a couple questions about coil packs...
1: Looks like they all come without boots. Can I reuse the boot I have? Boots on amazon indicate they just screw onto the wire. I'm unfamiliar with that setup. I built my own back in the bad old days, and it was a huge PITA fitting connectors. Unscrewing the old one and reusing it would be convenient.
2: Is a Chinese coil worth the gamble @ $38? Genuine parts range from $70-$125 depending on coil. I don't understand the huge discrepancy, and I have a question posted to the vendor, cause they don't explicitly have my model#. Waiting to hear what they say. All the coils should be the same, with only the wire length varying. I don't know why that would cost anything more. The coil's proving harder to source than anticipated.
1: Looks like they all come without boots. Can I reuse the boot I have? Boots on amazon indicate they just screw onto the wire. I'm unfamiliar with that setup. I built my own back in the bad old days, and it was a huge PITA fitting connectors. Unscrewing the old one and reusing it would be convenient.
2: Is a Chinese coil worth the gamble @ $38? Genuine parts range from $70-$125 depending on coil. I don't understand the huge discrepancy, and I have a question posted to the vendor, cause they don't explicitly have my model#. Waiting to hear what they say. All the coils should be the same, with only the wire length varying. I don't know why that would cost anything more. The coil's proving harder to source than anticipated.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
That $90 savings compared to the potential cost of a breakdown...
The aftermarket serpentine belt for my Honda van works, but squeaks because it's not as thick as oem...dampening or some such explanation. Now, I'm in the hook for an oem Honda belt and more time into a swap.
The aftermarket serpentine belt for my Honda van works, but squeaks because it's not as thick as oem...dampening or some such explanation. Now, I'm in the hook for an oem Honda belt and more time into a swap.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #156
I found my multimeter. The impedance reading on the coil /appears/ close to spec, but I don't know how much of a difference makes a difference. Mine's also a harborfreight meter, and they specify a particular model of Fluke to match their numbers.
How do these things work? I'm guessing it takes 12v and boosts it to whatever thousand volt to fire the plug, right? If I hook my multimeter to the bare pigtails that are supposed to go to the coil, and crank the engine, I should be getting 12v, right? I'm trying to confirm a bad coil, and not just swap parts and hope for the best. This is why I hate mechanical work...
Oh, and if anyone cares, I removed the wire from the coil. It just screws on. I'm assuming the boot does also. I found coils online that look like they might be reputable AM makers, but the coil I need is OOS. I could possibly get the #1 coil(in stock) that has a shorter wire, and replace it with a longer wire for #2
edit:
Playing with it further, I get a reading going from terminal to terminal, but if I hook up the wire, I get nothing. Dunno if it's me, the meter, or the wire. If it's the wire, I can dig up a wire around here somewhere. That would be a cheap fix.
edit2:
Holy shit, I think I've got it! It appears to be the boot. If I probe from terminal directly into the cable, I get a reading, but if I try the boot only, there's no continuity. Looks like buying a boot will be a cheap attempt, and I think it might even work.
How do these things work? I'm guessing it takes 12v and boosts it to whatever thousand volt to fire the plug, right? If I hook my multimeter to the bare pigtails that are supposed to go to the coil, and crank the engine, I should be getting 12v, right? I'm trying to confirm a bad coil, and not just swap parts and hope for the best. This is why I hate mechanical work...
Oh, and if anyone cares, I removed the wire from the coil. It just screws on. I'm assuming the boot does also. I found coils online that look like they might be reputable AM makers, but the coil I need is OOS. I could possibly get the #1 coil(in stock) that has a shorter wire, and replace it with a longer wire for #2
edit:
Playing with it further, I get a reading going from terminal to terminal, but if I hook up the wire, I get nothing. Dunno if it's me, the meter, or the wire. If it's the wire, I can dig up a wire around here somewhere. That would be a cheap fix.
edit2:
Holy shit, I think I've got it! It appears to be the boot. If I probe from terminal directly into the cable, I get a reading, but if I try the boot only, there's no continuity. Looks like buying a boot will be a cheap attempt, and I think it might even work.
Last edited:
Burnham
Woods walker
Multimeter for the win. Mine helped a lot when I was diagnosing intermittent spark on my old DR brush mower.
Burnham
Woods walker
Unfortunately, I have personally proven that sig line true from time to time 
. Always a good idea to keep it in mind.
. Always a good idea to keep it in mind.
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
John,
Not sure why you’d need a specific multimeter but when I get back from CA I’ll check model number on my Fluke for you in case it’s the correct model.
Not sure why you’d need a specific multimeter but when I get back from CA I’ll check model number on my Fluke for you in case it’s the correct model.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #161
I think it's just a case of what Kubota verified. They used that particular meter, and guarantee results with it. Not sure how much readings can vary per meter, or even what variance can be expected between components. My multimeter use has been very basic. Typically I check impedence to see if it passes current at all, and DC volts. Nothing fancy.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #162
Update on the boot... I don't know why this stuff has to be so hard. The boot I have seems to be delisted. I can barely find reference to it online. The boot that replaces it is... wait for it... also delisted, though somewhat more recently. I ordered a boot from Jacks, but it'll be three weeks cause it's coming from Japan. To hedge my bets, I also ordered a Chinese copy from amazon. That'll be here early next week. I saw at least two boots using the same replacement# on amazon. One reading reviews /appears/ to be the kind that goes on the threaded stud on the sparkplug. Do the plugs I ordered have a removable nipple? Who knows?! They don't all remove. Why? Cause frig you, that's why. The one I ordered had pictures showing inside the boot, and it looks like a nipple clamp( :^O ) inside. Looking at pictures is a little hard when not intimately familiar with the product and the fine details. Also, Chinese. No telling what you actually get when you order. It can be a bit of a crapshoot. I also don't know for sure this boot is a good replacement. It's meant for motorcycles and snowmobiles. Is a 3 cylinder Kubota like those? Kinda I guess. It's also very similar to a car, which I think it's closer to, but who knows... I'd like to just dig through a parts bin in a store, and grab something that looks like it'll work, and maybe I will once the pressure's off. Electronically anyway. I know of no parts stores that let you dig through their bins :^D
So... that's where we stand. It sure is a lot of hassle for a very trivial part. Hopefully it'll work, and hopefully the coils will outlast the chipper, cause with all the hassle of getting a plug boot, it's still easier than finding a quality coil, and even the shady coils aren't that prolific.
So... that's where we stand. It sure is a lot of hassle for a very trivial part. Hopefully it'll work, and hopefully the coils will outlast the chipper, cause with all the hassle of getting a plug boot, it's still easier than finding a quality coil, and even the shady coils aren't that prolific.
Burnham
Woods walker
Steady, John. Hold to the course plotted. You'll clear the reefs.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #164
To not just be completely bitching... I think the plug wires are pretty cool. It would be super easy to build a wire set with screw on components. Buy a bunch of wire like you would rope, cut off what you need, and screw them into the connectors. Easy, peasy. I think it was the 80s when I last built wires, and they had these awful crimp on connectors that were terrible to use. There was probably a tool that made it easy, but I used pliers. Not a process I'd like to revisit.
Kaveman
Treehouser
Yes ma'am. Sorry.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #168
Got this sexy bit of kit today...
:^D
It's pretty nasty looking compared to the NGK. Bits of plastic flashing all over compared to the NGK bakelite, but it looks like it'll work.
I'm still waiting on plugs from Jacks. I was supposed to get them "tomorrow", last week. I'm annoyed. Do you have the plugs, or don't you? Are you shipping from your warehouse in the county on your office turtle?! There's a bunch of places I can get them from, and they'd be in my hand right now if I ordered when I ordered from Jacks. I had to buy a whole new brushcutter when the one I took them for warranty work wasn't fixed when they said it would be. I'm almost to the point I won't deal with them anymore. They could hardly be closer, and I like to buy local when I can, but I have little tolerance for bullshit.
:^D
It's pretty nasty looking compared to the NGK. Bits of plastic flashing all over compared to the NGK bakelite, but it looks like it'll work.
I'm still waiting on plugs from Jacks. I was supposed to get them "tomorrow", last week. I'm annoyed. Do you have the plugs, or don't you? Are you shipping from your warehouse in the county on your office turtle?! There's a bunch of places I can get them from, and they'd be in my hand right now if I ordered when I ordered from Jacks. I had to buy a whole new brushcutter when the one I took them for warranty work wasn't fixed when they said it would be. I'm almost to the point I won't deal with them anymore. They could hardly be closer, and I like to buy local when I can, but I have little tolerance for bullshit.
Burnham
Woods walker
Lack of decent service trumps just being local, every time.
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
Back on the East Coast. My Fluke is an 83 V if that’s any help.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #171
This is what it says in the workshop manual...
NOTE
• This check sheet shows the results of the test conducted by
using the "FLUKE MULTMETER 110 SERIES" (degital
meter).
• Use of other testers than those above may show different
measured results.
I should know tomorrow whether or not it's a coil problem. I suspect not. I'll clean, properly gap the plugs, and check the model# to see if it's a direct replacement for the NGKs listed. I wanted to use the exact plugs specified to eliminate any uncertainty. The plugs in the machine could be the wrong heat range or something. NGKs are just better anyway. Maybe that turtle will make it to the shop by tomorrow.
NOTE
• This check sheet shows the results of the test conducted by
using the "FLUKE MULTMETER 110 SERIES" (degital
meter).
• Use of other testers than those above may show different
measured results.
I should know tomorrow whether or not it's a coil problem. I suspect not. I'll clean, properly gap the plugs, and check the model# to see if it's a direct replacement for the NGKs listed. I wanted to use the exact plugs specified to eliminate any uncertainty. The plugs in the machine could be the wrong heat range or something. NGKs are just better anyway. Maybe that turtle will make it to the shop by tomorrow.
Burnham
Woods walker
I'm surprised that any mid-range or better multimeter would/could/might show different readings, at least enough different to be at all significant.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #173
Those are my thoughts also Burnham, but I don't know enough to even speculate. I don't know how much of a difference is really a difference. The numbers they give are just numbers to me. I have no understanding of the scale involved.
Kaveman
Treehouser
NGK plugs are awesome. When it's OEM. After nearly a decade in the parts house, my wife has "Views", and I am compelled to express them.
NGK has no replacement, when it's what the design called for. The exception is small engines, and two strokes, NGK is just superior there, I promise.
Fords prefer Motorcraft, it's a thing. Don't fight it, you won't win in the end.
Chevy prefers ACDelco, but a few engines call for different manufacturers, and not for nothing.
Mopar hates spark plugs, may as well feed them Champions, they're no good for anything else.
OK, ranty pants are off now.
NGK has no replacement, when it's what the design called for. The exception is small engines, and two strokes, NGK is just superior there, I promise.
Fords prefer Motorcraft, it's a thing. Don't fight it, you won't win in the end.
Chevy prefers ACDelco, but a few engines call for different manufacturers, and not for nothing.
Mopar hates spark plugs, may as well feed them Champions, they're no good for anything else.
OK, ranty pants are off now.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #175
How do you all check belt tension. Do you use a gauge, or just guesstimate it? The spec on mine is ¼" deflection @ 12-13#. I don't know how closely I can estimate that weight. A cheapo Chinese gauge is about $40 on amazon. Alternately, I guess I could use something like a stick, and put a saw on top. My 362 is close enough I think.
