The Official Work Pictures Thread

This is safety chain. Has a double raker, one being a ramp. I ground both of them with my CBN wheel on my grinder to be flat on the front to hopefully rake chips out. Might cut rough but old chains such as stihl RSK are like that, and some old .404 I have.

I did cowboy skip once before on a crappy 24” chain and it would grab and slip…but my other two chains un modified same brand do it too. Also that is kinda short. I’m considering grinding the front off every third cutter so it is also flat faced and will rake.

I should probably test it as is first. The issue is only in horizontal felling situations so I will have to stand my test log up on end with the Telehandler.
 
I must be missing something. I don’t understand the purpose of a chip raker.
In some species here I have trouble with the chips stalling the chain like safety chaps. Partly operator error, not pulling the saw in and out like western fallers do to clear chips.
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@stikine I got a few 36” once used loops for $16 a piece and it’s good stihl chain which is important in the hard/dirty wood I cut so I’m having fun. On the others I just nipped the xtra rakers off.

Maybe I posted this already:



In this case I think it was mostly irrelevant cuz the chain is so short and wasn’t horizontal.
 
Fixing your gullets also helps move the chips. That little bump between the raker and tooth is more important than most people realize. You find out about that when you do square grind. Most the time on round file, the file handles it if you go deep enough into the tooth.
 
I've never seen filing a hedge trimmer in the field.

Is it tricky/difficult?
Easy peasy with a flat depthgauge file and a vise. It can take 2-3 hours to sharpen a neglected one, but a touchup should be like a long saw chain. There's 4 surfaces to file on 2 sides, so it's like filing 4 teeth on a chain, flip the chain over and another 4 teeth where the drive links would be if it were compared to a chainsaw.
 
Fixing your gullets also helps move the chips. That little bump between the raker and tooth is more important than most people realize. You find out about that when you do square grind. Most the time on round file, the file handles it if you go deep enough into the tooth.
I’ve been thinking about that gullet. Hog it out and angle it so chips flow past the cutter or lave it a wall/scoop to haul them out of the kerf? 🤔
 
I’ve been thinking about that gullet. Hog it out and angle it so chips flow past the cutter or lave it a wall/scoop to haul them out of the kerf? 🤔
Leaving it like a wall will make it harder to sever the fibers with the side plate. It's not worth trying to rake chips out better. Chainsaws have teeth and depth gauges, no need for rakers since the whole chain rakes well enough.
 
Leaving it like a wall will make it harder to sever the fibers with the side plate. It's not worth trying to rake chips out better. Chainsaws have teeth and depth gauges, no need for rakers since the whole chain rakes well enough.
The gullet is way below the severing action.

The chain doesn’t rake well enough in this case, hence the mods.

I bet an 8 pin and skip would handle it but I like spearminting
 
Just remember how long chainsaws have been around. As much as we like to find a better way, the better way has probably been discovered long ago.

The lower the depth gauges are, the thicker the chips, which don't bend and break easily, so they get jammed in the rails really tight and also drive the links out of the groove when they get driven into the bar by the drive links. Race chains have high depth gauges, probably partly because they don't want thick chips to slow them down, and because they rely on high chain speeds from big sprockets.
 
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