Full gap faces for hinge flexibility. Bored then horizontal kerfs, not horizontals and beat out face-cut block...very straight grained, no spiral grain.
I don't think that size of face adds much flexibility without multiple back cuts to distribute the flex. Most small electrical cords have a protective extension coming off the plugs that basically has a series of kerfs to enlarge the bend radius possible at the plugs, so a frequent hard kink in the same place doesn't lead to tearing. Usually every other kerf is connected to help force the bend to be spread out, so it doesn't do all of its bending at just one or two next to each other. That alternating connection also serves to hold the support bands together while making flexibility even in all directions.
I don't think that size of face adds much flexibility without multiple back cuts to distribute the flex. Most small electrical cords have a protective extension coming off the plugs that basically has a series of kerfs to enlarge the bend radius possible at the plugs, so a frequent hard kink in the same place doesn't lead to tearing. Usually every other kerf is connected to help force the bend to be spread out, so it doesn't do all of its bending at just one or two next to each other. That alternating connection also serves to hold the support bands together while making flexibility even in all
We had some wet snow followed by rain to saturate the snow, increasing the weight.
This is the school near my house where my daughter went to kindergarten.
The first oak broke near the ground (10' circumference) and missed the exposed propane pipe by inches, grazing the end of the tank.
The 11' circumference Oregon White Oak lost a large lead, tapping, but not breaking a light fixture on a tall pole.
This codominant doug-fir and oak wind together. I thought/ hoped they were locked together. They have been moving independently, while touching. They are both significantly worn down. The fir is 2/3s the normal dimension in one direction due to the abrasion with lots of exposed heartwood, and 25% wider than normal in a perpendicular direction.
The larger oak is as hollow, as determined by drilling, and has a cavity on the tension side. I did a recon climb, clearing fir limbs and a bit of oak, yesterday, solo. We will be back next week to carry on with the removals. Phase 1 will be stripping the fir to 90', giving a high rigging and TIP to rig out the oak overhanging the propane tanks, bringing the oak back to the contact point and removing all the large limbs over the 3 big tanks with significant exposed piping.
I covered some apparatus within the fence... some kind of pressure-thingy. Luckily, I have a lot of lumber stacked at home.
Monday, some oak speedlining from over the enclosure and swinging rigging onto the fir. The tips are reaching out about 40' from the oak butt.
I have had this theory for a long time for dead dry brittle wood. I finally found a retired Aussie tree guy on arborist site mention that he used that method. Gap face and multiple back cuts. Unfortunately he doesn’t seem to be around any more.
When I get a round tuit I have what I think is an improved method to try. My idea is a series of gap faces with a reversed profile. Two kerfs wide in the opening, diverging further as they proceed in to the tree. Probably a bit of trick to knock them out. Then a back cut and wedge for each face cut until the tree lean is changed to the desired lay and then dropped. The idea is the closed faces will act as safety stops to prevent the tree from going too far and snapping off. Variable is how far the wood will bend before it breaks. There is also the question of geometry - deeper or shallower face, larger or smaller DBH affect how many degrees of bend I’m asking of the fibers. Also, need to decide whether to start the stack of hinges at the bottom and work up or vice versa. @Marc-Antoine@theTreeSpyder
Back on this one again. Maybe some day we will finish 😆 I should make a dedicated thread for the project. Sal cedars overgrown and overhanging the road and house.
These on the south end by the house we trimmed a while back, took some more off the top yesterday. My logger buddy says they look like dr Seuss trees.
Plunge and bore, exploded off quite violently. As @Kaveman says, small tops small problems but we like to drop big pieces and drag them off whole. Wood is brittle and short grained.
Giant bird nests to work off of while removing regrowth. The regrowth kind of hinges. Trunks and bigger limbs don’t.
Closest I can get to hinging is to no-face them and let them tear. If I face them they crack and split. Other thing that seems to work is to kerf face and smoke the back cut off. They snap off clean. I think they don’t chair because they don’t flex. Seems like a face cut induces flex and cracking.
Crisscross mess, they cross each other N - S then grow E - W. My buddy want to hook the whole mess together, cut below and and take it all down at once with my 6x6 or one of his loaders.
Going to pull this one away from the lines mostly whole…wind was blowing like crazy yesterday which helped on all except this one.
The ones to the south by the house will not be removed, that’s as low as they will go.
Regrowth is weak and dangerous. They grow like a mofo. He wants to increase time to next prune and be able to reach without a super tall lift. Make things easier all around. They are a windbreak too.
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