The Official Work Pictures Thread

Well, it kinda reminds me of spruce with the dark sappy looking rings. I had a couple spruce trees in my yard and after cutting them up I found occasional solid channels of sap as big around as a pencil. The bark had tons of sap caked on too which made it good for starting fires.
 
I was getting antsy for some treework and ended up with 2 jobs in one day. The spruce, a buddy did what he could with a pole saw and needed me to finish. The elm, wind damage on a previous customers tree.


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Serially topped and retopped ash removal.

Easy stuff really, no back ache today.
 

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Ryan, looks like your legs of your hitch are overly-long, and will result in more sit-back.

Good pics.

Your friend musta been right under that thing with the pole saw, no?
 
Sean, the branches probably rode the pole saw down into his arms. �� As for my hitch: it sucks. What should the length of the cord be from eye to eye for a normal operating VT? I think I tied it long to make it easier to fight with when it inevitably locks up. When I get sick of that I minus a wrap and then have to babysit a loose hitch every time I want to put my weight back on it. I had to footlock the tail to get back to the elm tear and had to hold my weight for every purchase which completely fried my arm. Back to the Blake's maybe.
 
NO!

Just kidding about the Blake's. Not fully kidding.


The legs being long will inhibit locking, and increase sit-back when advancing your slack. Shorten them. The length of eye-to-eye hitch cord will depend on your wraps and rope size/ hitch cord size. Tie it tight. Add slack, if need be, after flying. My HH cord is tight as I can tie it, then worked back and forth a bit to smooth it out and tighten the knot, it is smooth. Friction up top reduces hitch-loading. A low-friction TIP will increase hitch loading.


I've been largely off DdRT forever, but I think that Burnham has the technical specifics of what the wraps and braids each specifically do, and how to adjust for different weight climbers. What do you weigh when geared up?

Make a wooden rope-wrench for free. Its just not midline-attachable. So what? I almost never take my HH or RW off the rope, just slide it, when stacking.
 
Probably around 220lbs geared up. I've been too intimidated by the rope wrench to sit down and actually learn how it works.
 
Michoacan (Blake with two legs) gives me the least amount of sit back/slack with the rope wrench and a shorty tether.
Here is the latest I have to plan for. The fence on the yard where I stand is going so no worries on the right side. I have been told to avoid dropping limbs on the left side.
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Since it seems you are on arborplex, i would just go with a split tail and a Blake's hitch. I started trying to use that, and never found a hitch cord that you didn't have to tie super loose to work. Arborplex is really easy to grab tho, and was pretty much designed for a tautline or Blake's in my experience at a similar weight. Get some blaze for about 10 bucks more and then you can run a rope wrench and advanced hitch really well. I do love old school arborplex with an open hitch tho, sooooooooo easy on the hands.
 
Probably around 220lbs geared up. I've been too intimidated by the rope wrench to sit down and actually learn how it works.

Here's how it works...easy.


If you want to overcomplicate things, it's very easy to do that.
My first Rope Wrench was a hammer handle with a hole in it, and a tether. Ascend up, and before sitting down, manually engage the wrench. The Wrench simply reduced the load on the hitch by burning up that weight-energy through friction of the rope bending back and forth over a piece of wood.


Compared to what you're doing...can't be any harder, effort wise, and you can use any good stick.

Overall, if you want to unlock the full secrets of SRT climbing, there is a lot to learn. Worthwhile, IMO. SRT basics, pretty easy to start, and build. What is the big looming thing you feel like you have to learn about the RW? Nowadays, you can buy one set up with a stiff tether, which is simpler than me taping a stick to my tether, as the system progressed, pre-stiffy tethers. ahh, ya, you can tape a stick stiffy to a rope tether on a stick with holes in it. Black Magic, or whatever color of electrical tape floats your boat.
 
Started a new one today, a late entry to the schedule. The neighbors are a regular client. These trees they are worried about now are mostly in the 2 plus year dead and probably not climb category. The piles on the ground already are from the pg&e contractors that never removed them over the last three years.... some fun stuff came about today, so I'll just post pics with explanations. Also. HO has a contractor coming in behind us to clean up next winter. All we are doing is getting them down and moving only what we need to to get the job done. Escape routes etc. 20190528_092034.jpg 20190528_092037.jpg
The biggest two here. We took down the closest one today.
 

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View of the drop zone for about 65 foot top and the surrounding mess and targets. Had already set a pull line from the ground. Then went up and removed some limbs up to about 60 plus feet. 30" or so at the cut, 066 with 36 bar... always fun.
 

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Be careful, sir!

How long do you figure those trees have been dead?
 
Cory, some 2-3 years. The three year dead are the ones already broken down to the last little bit to a third of the tree.
2 year olds tops mostly gone, limbs sometimes falling off.
1+ year olds, no needles left still might have a top, limbs are ok up to a point.
under a year, still has red needle. maybe brown, but has them...


Now some interesting stuff. One I felled had little oaks growing out. This would be a "nurse" tree if it had broke out and hit the ground. Oaks would have rooted in ground and used the rotting tree for food..
 

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I wonder if swapping the chain (on the mini) with a rope would make for a softer ride? Maybe even a thick rubber mat to stand on?
 
CV, have you had to turn down any tree removal jobs because they weren't safe to climb and there was no room to fell them?
 
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