The Official Work Pictures Thread

Looks like the Moon's surface.
Are these tiny dots erosion or deposits (some aren't so tiny)?
It could be either, from the incoming light's direction.
 
Just reflections. The pixels are too large to get enough detail to see what the specs are, made worse by the bright LED light. That's what $600 gets you from Snap-on. I downsized the pics from 480p to 360 so they would be clearer. Some of the white specs in the black side of the piston are where the carbon flaked off.
 
Looks greener than your pics usually do. I guess that's the rain you've been getting?
Thinking back, when my folks wanted to move up here from So Cal about the time my dad retired, my Grandmother pretty much pegged it. She said to my mom, "What ya want to move up there for? Unless you have irrigation or go up to the coastal range you only get two seasons up there. Brown and green.".
 
Cooked on exhaust side?
The fresh mix from the transfer ports both cool and wash the piston. Oil can bake onto hot spots, but this looks more like soot, which can form when there is both insufficient air to burn clean and a heat sink that cools the flame too much to burn completely. Think propane torch (clean blue flame) vs candle. A candle doesn't exactly burn dirty, but put some cool metal in the flame, and it will prevent the carbon from burning all the way forming soot on the metal. It would be interesting to see super slow-mo video of what goes on inside an engine to compare flame color near TDC vs lower in the stroke, vs during high rpm 4 stroking, and the difference between an ideal clean burning flame and a sufficiently rich mixture for safe running.

I polished the piston to hopefully reflect heat and better trap heat inside for more power. Also to help the piston stay cleaner and get washed better by the transfer ports, and to reduce surface area that can transfer heat into the piston.
 
Apparently that's why Stihl's new EFI 500 I's all the rage now, in that it can compensate for the air to fuel ratio being optimized, despite the air filter becoming progressively stingy.

I intend to give her a whirl, even at 1500 bugs!

Power to weight ratio's are what it's all about.

When will Stihl have the common sense to make fueling caps conducive to being wiped clean with a friggin rag?

Jomo
 
I like how husqvarna caps are designed to lift out dirt when opened.

Anyway, carbon buildup seems unavoidable with how impure our gas is, and the extreme heat chainsaw engines operate at. Looking into the benefits of polished pistons, there seems to be no clear answer as to if it is better or not. I think one study said yes, but some race car builders seem to think they lost a smidge of power until the polished pistons got a layer of carbon on them. The only way I have found to prevent deposits in a chainsaw engine is not to let it get hot, and use a heavy mineral oil like Echo Red Armor, or castor oil. Castor will definitely bake on and turn to carbon, but in cooler conditions it forms a barrier keeping carbon from sticking.
 
I tried that Echo oil last year and didn't care for it. Within 4-5 weeks I began having issues with carbs and saws not running right. Went back to Stihl synthetic (grey bottle) and all my saws began running great again.

I've had saws running over 10 years on Stihl synthetic and the pistons all look like brand new. Definitely worth the small extra cost to have saws that never wear out.
 
Am I a fool for running VP Racing Gas at 110'octane with Stihl's silver bottle synthetic mix.

It's pricey no doubt, but my carb problems have dissolved.....

My 461 loves it!

Jomo
 
110 octane can cause throttle response and max rpm to suffer. I think there's no benefit to using more than 95 in a chainsaw. I haven't had carb problems with Red Armor. I had a couple saws sit for a whole year without use, but with gas in them that started easily.
 
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