Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
As a general rule, I don't like to free climb anything unless I'm alpine climbing. Obviously, I'll use any suitable fixed ropes I can find, but an ice screw or a snow anchor isn't a bolt or even a strong tree limb. You don't take whippers on them; you just don't fall and, if you do, you'd better stop yourself with your ice axe. But yeah, when you free climb mountains, your TIPs are sometimes your axes and, if you're smart, you've got them affixed to your harness. Some alpinists don't use tethers for their axes because, more often then not, if you fall on one hard enough, it will pop out and fling into your teeth. Your true friend is your crampons. Strong hand/axe holds are secondary to strong foot holds. Get that front hook deep into the ice and snow, semi-wide stance for stability, and then assess your axe positions. Especially when you're on 60-70 degree slopes.
The Karakorum and Himalaya call to me, but I'm not yet prepared. I hope someday I'll climb Ama Dablam or Cho Oyu or Kangchenjunga, but I fear I'm past my prime. I'm currently no longer in the shape I used to be, but I'm going to start training. I may never even be able to afford an expedition, but Denali would be a nice summit as well, right in our back yard. I'd obviously do Denali first before any eight-thousander. I have to see how my body accepts higher altitudes.
But imagine...climbing as high as passenger jets fly on supplemental oxygen! Nothing but a blanket of white snow, granite, limestone, and glaciers all around you. I still have time.
So I suppose I'll free climb the shit out of those mountains. (See how I wrapped up my rant into a nice coherent present?) =-D
The Karakorum and Himalaya call to me, but I'm not yet prepared. I hope someday I'll climb Ama Dablam or Cho Oyu or Kangchenjunga, but I fear I'm past my prime. I'm currently no longer in the shape I used to be, but I'm going to start training. I may never even be able to afford an expedition, but Denali would be a nice summit as well, right in our back yard. I'd obviously do Denali first before any eight-thousander. I have to see how my body accepts higher altitudes.
But imagine...climbing as high as passenger jets fly on supplemental oxygen! Nothing but a blanket of white snow, granite, limestone, and glaciers all around you. I still have time.
So I suppose I'll free climb the shit out of those mountains. (See how I wrapped up my rant into a nice coherent present?) =-D