TCIA felling article

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cory

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I wanted to place this in an extant thread but couldnt find the right one.

Felling article. 2 things didn't make sense to me- reason for a humboldt and hinging/fiber in winter-cut oaks.

As discussed ad nauseam here at the House, the biggest reason to use a humboldt is (long story short) to make the tree fall twice, as Jerry would say. Definitely not used to make a shorter stump (the opposite is true)

And Ive never noticed oaks hinging better in winter. Cold weather afaik makes all species hinge worse, if it is cold enough.

 
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Cory, I love you, but I'm not reading through an article that treats the reader like a 3rd grader. I tried, but I found it an insult to my intelligence. I climb and fell trees for a living, I don't need the stick trick explained in detail (poorly by the way) or how to use a plumb bob. Make your point yourself so we can move on as a family.

Ps, TCIA can kiss my Irish ass.
 
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It's a pretty short article, I probably skimmed it. But it was recently noted here that we don't discuss treework basics much lately so I thought I'd make a contribution.

The article clearly hits on the basics but one can usually learn a least a little sumthin from some discussion of basics.

@MatthewMMeckley is one of the authors and he certainly knows a thing or two re felling
 
No argument of Matt's skill required, he's shown his credentials. The editor on that article should be strung up. It's a damn tree climbing organization, it shouldn't be writing to the lowest common denominator. Stop explaining so the home owner can understand and speak to the professionals.

I like Humbolts because I feel that it does a better job of under mining the tree than other face cuts. Harder to line up, by a wee bit, but worth the trouble.

I also do not prescribe to the sacred ratios of just how deep your face should be. 10-30% is rarely adequate unless you like pounding wedges and blowing the lay. YMMV, but I've never been that guy.

Long bars rock, because I don't like bending over, but I'll still dog in if I figure the wood is thick enough for all the WooPows.

Small tops=small problems.

There basics covered, can we all get back to the forum as normal? Part of the reason I love this place is because it ain't all trees, and we rarely have to teach an airhead newb. I like that I am among some of the most talented people in the trades, but I don't have to talk work all the dadgummed time. It's nice to unwind with my peers.
 
Face depth keeps coming up for me lately…I think a better rule is hinge 80% of tree dia. This is because lots of trees (almost everything I cut) are weird shapes, not consistent fibers and cylinders like your average conifer.

I was thinking about it while driving back yesterday. I’ve been cutting severely oval trees with a little side lean. So I go hinge 100% of dia *90° to the felling direction*. Then of course thick hinge on tension side, maybe gap face or sizwheel, etc.

I hope no one reads that article and thinks they are ready. It’s good basics, but each point could be a whole article if one went in depth. Soooo many variables. I walked around that codom tree a bunch yesterday cogitating and was still only 75% comfortable with what I came up with. If there were valuable targets, it would have been different. Piece down, split, pull ropes, etc.

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I for one appreciate and encourage the felling discussion. Maybe we should make a point to post stuff we do or see beyond the basics. I keep slacking on my vids and not talking and explaining my thought process so that those less knowing can learn or those more knowing can correct.

Already posted, but another example of oval. Had to go 45° to the oval IIRC.
This one was very oval…had to cut off mini codoms first and high stump, gap face. Lot of “felling plan” on it. Pull rope, etc.

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