Stripped Oiler Gear - Cause?

lxskllr

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Got home from work, and decided to fool with the poulanpro. Got it apart, and the oiler gear was stripped. Not a big surprise. Everything was pretty well tacked up. Scavenged an oiler off a poulan carcass, got everything working smoothly with wd40, installed it, fired up the saw, and no oil. Take it apart again, and the oiler's stripped. There's a non zero chance it was stripped when I put it in, but I really don't think so. I gave it cursory look, and it looked fine.

Before I buy a new oiler and strip it, is there anything I should look for as to a cause?
 
You're using it wrong.

Clean it out, strip all the oil off of it, inside and out. Attach 6 feet of chain to the handle and tie your anchor rope to the chain.

It'll suck as a boat anchor too...
 
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  • #5
That's kind of where I'm at with this. It's a useful saw to me within certain limitations. An oem pump looks like it's about $20, and a Chinese pump about $8. I'd even pay the $20 if I thought it would last, and I wouldn't have to deal with it for years, but I'm not interested in the Stihl payment plan one shitty part at a time, ending up with a piece of shit at a Stihl price. I was hoping the scavenged pump would work. I'll probably give the Chinese pump a shot, and if that fails, the saw will either be done, or I'll run it without oil til it dies. Maybe keep my eyes open for a beat echo that can live in the bed of the truck. Maybe just quit the idea altogether, and use the 2511 that lives in the cab. If that won't cut it, the wood just won't get cut...

edit:
That ms170 I have would make a good truck saw, but it's too pretty to live in the bed of a truck, and it's also too thievable. Stihl colors are gonna generate interest, regardless of the saw model. If I could get an old echo, I could delabel it, and slop some paint on it or something to make it look like shit, that way even if it were seen, someone might not want to risk getting caught over a shitty looking saw.
 
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You have a place with some space, get you one of these... 20240106_094021.jpg
Random folk tend not to get itchy fingers around him. In fact, they keep their grubby little sausage grabbers well away.
 
Was the gear stripped on pump or on crank or both?
There are different threads in gears, even in same models and even several different in some models.
If the pickup line is clogged the WD40 will not help much and it can pinch.
 
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  • #13
It was stripped on the pump. On both, there's a section of about three plastic threads that are crushed. I haven't looked very carefully at the crank, but it looks like a spring that acts as a wormdrive to move the pump. The part numbers on both poulans are the same, and they're visually identical. They're basically the same saw of different generations. I also put the old clutch and spur on the new saw. I messed up the "new" clutch by being stupid and running it without the brakeband in place(it came apart, but is fixable with sufficient effort), and the older spur looked better than the new one.
 
If the spring is right and is in correct place it can strip the pump shafts gear If that is stuck or motionless.
There is a difference.
If not mounted correct it ride up on crank gear and will not pump.
Seen that a couple times.
Pretty common thing on consumer grade stuff...
Springs are good as they adapt a bit to pumps thread.
That also mean they move a bit if something go wrong, so you need to make sure it sits correct before mounting pump.
 
I had a plastic oiler worm screw on a battery saw strip out on me, i decided that it was likely the canola oil freezing/gelling enough to cause it to jam, and it was plastic so it would save the pump. I really need to get that lathe going, took a few weeks to get the damn thing :lol:
 
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  • #16
I was thinking that myself, but I can't use a lathe. Brass would make a nice oiler gear.
 
I am still waiting for those issues all is talking about with Canola/rapeseed oil.
One day I might get to see it..
Manufacturers veggie oil I see it enough though...

Stripped gears on electric saws is mostly lack of oil as it lubricate pump as well and some run way too long without oil...
Seen this many times... After a couple repairs, the cost help to remind and problem go away...
Odd as they never run them dry, and always are full when they come in.

Must be something magic... Or its the bloody gnomes terrorizing..
Anything else is optional...
 
I didn't run mine dry, and it's just a little abs plastic worm screw. I've since started cutting the canola with acetone and that seems to be the ticket here. I also keep everything in an unheated garage, so it's basically asking it to gel.
 
Never messed with one but I’d take the pump apart. Pics?

My 346 is ugly but @huskihl ported the little monster, so it can do a lot of work…I don’t leave it in the bed of my truck anywhere public. Hopefully soon I’ll get it morphed into a red saw with 90° handles for better felling sights
 
Acetone can attack some plastics, probably not chai saw plastics.

I've seen oil holes on bars get plugged solid with fines if a lot of hardwood rip cutting is done. It's never happened to me, but it did to one guy I know. Not sure why unless he was flipping the bar without cleaning the hole. Luckily it didn't strip the pump on the 590, it just shot oil out from somewhere beside the bar.
 
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  • #25
This is the whole pump...

IMG_20240413_140620470.jpg

This is the boogered flutes...

IMG_20240413_140551365.jpg


Those flutes ride against a spring on the crank which turns it, and the small shaft that goes inside the large aluminum barrel turns, and oil somehow gets pumped to the bar :^D I'd have to study it closer to know exactly how it works. That small shaft has a flat spot at the bottom of the barrel. That probably has something to do with pushing oil.
 
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