Static Line Felling 2X?

[Jack]

...
Aside from that any one tie off a short log and use that as a pseudo-grapple to pull over a tree when
isolating the tip is almost impossible or just to reduce the amount of rope needed or reduce the stretch or to add more rope to the MA pulley system or clear back and away from the fall zone?

...

I call it a "Toggled Pull (or Hold) Line". The line is tied to the middle of the short log so it will jam across a union.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

We used to call it a stay or limit line. We use it mostly to just prevent an unfavorable lay (this often includes the lazy approach to burning or chipping a tree ). I had some pics of a two line job, but they are on my crashed puter...

 

[MasterBlaster]

It's like sweating a line, just not using humans.

 

[HolmenTree]

RopeArmour draw a sketch of your setup, scan it then post it here to help us with any confusion.

A few weeks ago I took down a 60 ft jackpine with its butt hollowed out by carpenter ants. It was standing tight amongest other pines its same size. I was able to setup a speedline alongside it onto a neighboring tree, climbed the neighbor tree hooked the ant tree to the speedline with a 4 ft sling and biner.
Came back down and felled the pine, guided perfect to lay with the speedline.

 

[Bearclaw]

When you say you tie a running bowline to a 2'x2' log to pull into the crown to jam in a crotch a "pseudo grapple", why dont you simply tie the standing line to the base of the tree above you felling notch? The line runs up the tree to the crotch back down and you pull with that line.

 

[Jack]

When you say you tie a running bowline to a 2'x2' log to pull into the crown to jam in a crotch a "pseudo grapple", why dont you simply tie the standing line to the base of the tree above you felling notch? The line runs up the tree to the crotch back down and you pull with that line.

Answer from the OP:

... to reduce the amount of rope needed or reduce the stretch or to add more rope to the MA pulley system or clear back and away from the fall zone? ...

and:

... oh the other thing I like about this is the rope is hopefully not pinned under the spar. ...

 

[Jack]

RopeArmour draw a sketch of your setup, scan it then post it here to help us with any confusion.

A few weeks ago I took down a 60 ft jackpine with its butt hollowed out by carpenter ants. It was standing tight amongest other pines its same size. I was able to setup a speedline alongside it onto a neighboring tree, climbed the neighbor tree hooked the ant tree to the speedline with a 4 ft sling and biner.
Came back down and felled the pine, guided perfect to lay with the speedline.

So, you speedlined the top of the whole tree to the lay. Cool, Willard ... COOL!

 

[bonner1040]

I have often thought of trying that

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[MasterBlaster]

Just don't go too big.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Back-guying the rigging tree wouldn't be a bad idea, either, as needed, with a from-ground-removable rope, like doubled over through a crotch. I would choke the speedline with a running bowline with a separate pull-down line, so as not to need to reclimb.

Cool technique.

 

[HolmenTree]

I would choke the speedline with a running bowline with a separate pull-down line, so as not to need to reclimb.

Cool technique.

Yes exactly what I did. I set the speedline with the bigshot and dynaglide, then just tied the dynaglide line to the running bowline for easy retrevial.
The rigging[speedline] tree was pretty stout so I didn't need a back guy, but may be a good idea for others. It doesn't take alot of pressure on the speedline to guide the tree, seeing 40-50 ft of leverage at that point of contact greatly offsets it.

The next thing I wanna try is attach a port a wrap at the base of either tree ,run a rope up to a block or pulley attached to the running bowline at the speedline attachment, the rope is then tied to the slide biner.
Then I'll try lowering the felled tree to the ground slowly under control. With this method a back guy would be a good idea.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

Don't forget to cut a wide open face, 90°+, or the butt will jump backward when the too narrow face will bust the hinge.

 

[HolmenTree]

Don't forget to cut a wide open face, 90°+, or the butt will jump backward when the too narrow face will bust the hinge.

Yes good point.
Also when attempting this radical speedline falling ,have a pre planned escape route and keep you eye to the sky.