Magnus
TreeHouser
Angles is less important than edge. If it is not sharp it will not cut anyway...
Once it is sharp angles you choose will help you keep the edge.
Once it is sharp angles you choose will help you keep the edge.
Someone Might Care... Who Knows?
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Magnus
TreeHouser
If you look in profile of a chain it is a bit like: ( If it is more like: C You get a beek that dull fast.
The more flat it is like ( or even I the sharper edge is needed to be and the longer it will hold edge.
A thin edge is not the same as a sharp one.
The more flat it is like ( or even I the sharper edge is needed to be and the longer it will hold edge.
A thin edge is not the same as a sharp one.
HolmenTree
Banned
Magnus, actually the first centrifuge air cleaning saw introduced was the Jonsered 2051 Turbo in 1988. Husqvarna didn't introduce their air injection until 1990 on the 262XP.
Jonsered 2094 Turbo was the first big displacement saw to get it introduced in 1990. The Husqvarna 394XP in 1991.
I've heard claims of it being a Partner invention but Jonsered claims it was their invention with the 1988 2051 Turbo.
HolmenTree
Banned
For cutting dry or frozen wood. This is what I prefer with a Oregon 73 LGX 3/8 chisel round filed as an example.
7/32" file for newer size cutters, 13/64" with half size and smaller cutters. With the file handle 10 degrees lowered I file the top plate angle at 20 degrees, depth gauges .025" at new filed progressively to .030" when cutters are filed down to the witness marks.
Side plate angle 75 degrees.
7/32" file for newer size cutters, 13/64" with half size and smaller cutters. With the file handle 10 degrees lowered I file the top plate angle at 20 degrees, depth gauges .025" at new filed progressively to .030" when cutters are filed down to the witness marks.
Side plate angle 75 degrees.
Magnus
TreeHouser
You Know the history of these brands. Partner Jonsered and Husqvarna is the same after 1979. The teams merged and got assigned projects in all brands within Elux. Pissed many off pretty good. The partner guy that did the first attempt of this system and cracked the Ideas was later on Jonsered team. They were all in same house by 84-85 and had same parts to play with. I ask him next time I meet him.
I looked in many 254's the past 15 years and I have (I hope) still two here with air injection one '88 and one '86 (I also have a 254 SG).
I doubt it is mounted after. I don't see how that could be done unless case is replaced. It is odd though, It is not in the IPLs. The first in IPL's is 262...
Magnus
TreeHouser
Willard.
I remember you telling us about a test you made of saw chain that was before Oregon sold it was it 73LP or LG?
I think it was a chisel chain...
I remember you telling us about a test you made of saw chain that was before Oregon sold it was it 73LP or LG?
I think it was a chisel chain...
HolmenTree
Banned
Yes I field tested the Oregon 72/73 LG prior to it being introduced in 1982.
Also tested the radial ported rim sprockets and the Power Match bars and noses for the later introduction.
The first series of the LG chains were spec'd at .030 on the depth gauges.
Yes a round ground chisel chain.
Also tested the radial ported rim sprockets and the Power Match bars and noses for the later introduction.
The first series of the LG chains were spec'd at .030 on the depth gauges.
Yes a round ground chisel chain.
flushcut
TreeHouser
For hard, dead, or frozen wood I like the rakers at .020 and that varies depending on the cc's of the saw.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Cutting in real hard wood if chains follow a similar principle as saw blades, calls for compromise in the hook angle of the tooth. Giving up some initial cutting speed will allow for greater longevity of sharpness. I assume that must be the reasoning behind Willard's choice of file and method when cutting hard material. Cutting a lot of it or a little, could alter your approach, it seems.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Thanks for the intel folks. This is Stihl RSF chain I use. I'll raise the file a few clicks at a time and see how it goes.
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
I hate it as well but it does hold an edge longer in dirty cutting.
HolmenTree
Banned
The trick with semi chisel to make it cut good is don't round file it like a chisel chain. Use 35 degrees on the top plate versus 25 degrees as Oregon specs on the LGX-LPX chisel .
I used it when we felled x-mas trees ( Before that got taken over by Romanians, willing to work for two grains of rice and a cup of water a day).
You can't avoid hitting mole hills under the trees, since you are mostly cutting blind.
For such small cuts there is not much difference between semi and full chisel.
When you are cutting blowdown free, there will be lots of dirt on the logs from the tilted over rootwads, so sacrificing a bit ( Alot, actually) of cutting speed for durability is a good deal.
That job is so dangerous that you kinda have to take your time with it anyway.
If you misread the bind in a tree, it may well be tha last tree you cut.
You can't avoid hitting mole hills under the trees, since you are mostly cutting blind.
For such small cuts there is not much difference between semi and full chisel.
When you are cutting blowdown free, there will be lots of dirt on the logs from the tilted over rootwads, so sacrificing a bit ( Alot, actually) of cutting speed for durability is a good deal.
That job is so dangerous that you kinda have to take your time with it anyway.
If you misread the bind in a tree, it may well be tha last tree you cut.
skippysphins
TreeHouser
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2015
- Messages
- 9
Anybody in this discussion know where I could buy some oberg files or am I dreaming ?
Ty
Chris
Ty
Chris
good stuff at Madsens, including this re bar info
Chain Saw Guide Bar Maintenance
This information helps pro saw users understand proper guide bar maintenance.
www.madsens1.com
flushcut
TreeHouser
Damn good thread! And great bump for the new blood.
This quote kinda sums up some of my thinking. Having been filing since the late 1970s, I obviously should have some ability by now, but yeah, once in awhile a chain isn't cutting great and I just don't know why. Ha in the old days I would keep fuggin with it to try to correct but since more often than not that would be unsuccessful, if a chain starts acting up on me these days and it has 50% or less life left, I give it an immediate new home in the recycle bin
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Do you use a grinder, Cory, to true it up?
Nutball
TreeHouser
I'd save up all the bad chains until it is worth sending out to a robot grinder to true them up.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Have you tried the same chain on a different bar? It could be one mal-adjusted/ maintenance-required component exacerbating another.
Good chain is expensive.
